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Repair for Dead Gauges on 2003-2006 Nautiques Caused by Bad Faria Gateway

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  • Originally posted by TechBeer View Post
    Trust me, the SV211 is no better. The gateway is behind a fuse box panel that has to be pulled down to access. Your back will hurt when you're done.

    But the gauges are easy to access, 4 screws and the dash pad comes up and easy access to the gauges.

    I still contend that if the Voltage gauge works and the Fuel gauge doesn't, my guess is the gauge itself.....
    100% the fuel gauge is broken

    I am trying to mostly fix the oil pressure, rpm, temp, etc. Those are not getting signal from engine from what I can tell

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    • LOL, TechBeer! I installed the Stargazer upgrade in my 211 about a week ago and hurt for a few days afterwards.

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      • fsts2k Totally agree. I think you are on the right track with connections. I "think" the oil pressure and temp senders (and likely RPM) probably go through the Engine ECU and then CAN bus to the Faria Gateway. There the Fuel, Speed, Volts, etc. are combined and sent via "Faria Serial Bus" to the gauges. Some of that is educated guess though.

        MN Ryan The best thing about the Stargazer is you gain a REALLY accurate clock.... ​​​​​​​

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        • Ok, some progress but not much. I pulled out all connections to the gateway and opened it up, it looked perfect. I cleaned it with electrical cleaner and put it back together. Before doing this I was getting oil pressure, speed, and voltage in both the digital and the gauges; no tach. After cleaning nothing changed although I am actually getting a reading on my depth finder which is new. I still don’t get engine hours, EGT, or tach although I do see tach on my Perfect Pass. I also pulled apart the fuel gauge, cleaned it, and put it back together, it seems to have come to life.

          I did find the engine harness; I unplugged it, cleaned it, and put it back together, nothing changed. Feeling stuck on why the gateway box is not seeing temp, tach, engine hours, egt, etc. I would be willing to replace the entire thing with this new option but am wondering if the gateway box is really the issue.


          I did find the marine that winterized the boat left a bunch of things undone (not super happy) like the interior panels and they appear to have taken off the dash. I can’t find anything that is unplugged and now feel like I need to trace wires. Here is what I know:
          - Boat is a 2005 226
          - Perfect Pass stargazer is seeing tach
          - Voltage, Oil Pressure, and speed work on gauges
          - Gateway box has no visible corrosion on it
          - Fuel gauge appears to work now
          - The heater does blow warm (not hot) so the engine is coming up to temp (I am not convinced the thermostat works, another issue)

          Any ideas where to go from here?

          Also, if anyone has any spare Team gauges that don’t work and are willing to sell to me, I will buy them. My fuel gauge enclosure was cracked (the plastic that the gauge mechanicals sit in).

          Appreciate all the help
          Last edited by fsts2k; 05-28-2022, 01:44 PM.

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          • I've got a new symptom I would love some thoughts on. After repairing all 4 small gauges everything worked perfectly for a few weeks. Then the voltage gauge (far right) started getting flakey, it would oscillate between correct reading (~14V) and zero. Then it just stayed at zero. Further the backlight for that gauge doesn't come on. So the obvious thing would be the connector not seated for that gauge since it's at the end of the serial bus daisy chain.

            Here's where it gets weird (and nerdy). I have been trying to figure out the protocol for the serial bus (for a couple of reasons) so I hooked up an oscilloscope to the bus. BTW, I do NOT believe this is a CAN bus, the voltages are not correct and the data does not make any sense. Anyways, with the voltage gauge working there are 4 periodic bursts of data (e.g. packets), each about 2mS long coming from the gateway. When the voltage gauge doesn't work there are only 3 bursts of data. So.....I conjecture that each of these burst drive one of the 4 small gauges. There are additional longer bursts of data that I believe drive the information on the Tach and Speedometer multifunction LCD displays. But what's weird is that the voltage reads correctly on the Tach LCD display so the data is there it's just not getting out on the serial bus. A guess this is a gateway issue but I would not even know where to start..... Thoughts welcomed.

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            • Originally posted by TechBeer View Post
              I've got a new symptom I would love some thoughts on. After repairing all 4 small gauges everything worked perfectly for a few weeks. Then the voltage gauge (far right) started getting flakey, it would oscillate between correct reading (~14V) and zero. Then it just stayed at zero. Further the backlight for that gauge doesn't come on. So the obvious thing would be the connector not seated for that gauge since it's at the end of the serial bus daisy chain.

              Here's where it gets weird (and nerdy). I have been trying to figure out the protocol for the serial bus (for a couple of reasons) so I hooked up an oscilloscope to the bus. BTW, I do NOT believe this is a CAN bus, the voltages are not correct and the data does not make any sense. Anyways, with the voltage gauge working there are 4 periodic bursts of data (e.g. packets), each about 2mS long coming from the gateway. When the voltage gauge doesn't work there are only 3 bursts of data. So.....I conjecture that each of these burst drive one of the 4 small gauges. There are additional longer bursts of data that I believe drive the information on the Tach and Speedometer multifunction LCD displays. But what's weird is that the voltage reads correctly on the Tach LCD display so the data is there it's just not getting out on the serial bus. A guess this is a gateway issue but I would not even know where to start..... Thoughts welcomed.
              I wish I had thoughts on this, no idea but best of luck.

              I ended up ordering new TRD gauges; waiting for delivery

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              • Installed my new TRD gauges this weekend. Overall it is a fairly easy install with one note, the wiring harness (it is very nice; much nicer than factory) does not have provisions to power Perfect Pass, get the Tach signal for PP, or power the Clarion remote. I ended up splicing wires for those after tracking them back on the factory harness. Not a crisis and easy to do but did require a bit more time. Once I put the gauges in and lake tested I found that my fuel gauge now works (first time in 7 years), engine water temp. works, and tach works; success!

                I left the gateway box in the back for now but could easily pull it. My issue is I think I would need to plug the existing connections as well as plug the water tubes... What have others done when moving to analog gauges?

                Thanks
                Kevin

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                • Anyone get this email from Nautique Parts? Does Jeff or anyone have any inside info on what gauges they are thinking of using? Click image for larger version  Name:	NP.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.1 KB ID:	652553

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                  • well that is interesting timing

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                    • Originally posted by BigRedSV211 View Post
                      Does Jeff or anyone have any inside info on what gauges they are thinking of using?
                      This is the first I have heard of this. I wish I had more info, but I do not. I am interested to see what they come up with though!


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                      • Did you get new gauges or the old ones reworked. My gauges are not available right now

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                        • I'm about to swap out my Faria stuff with a kit I ordered last year and never got around to installing. I've been reading about some of the alternatives here and I thought @WakeHawk's solution deserved a link in this sticky thread.

                          Faria Gateway Box Replacement with Garmin MFD

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                          • There are a couple of gateway boxes for sale on ski_it_again.com in the Speed Control section

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                            • So I went ahead with the replacement for a few reasons, simplicity being one of them. All the gauges work as expected but the tachometer reads quite a bit low. I haven't taken detailed notes, but at cruising speed, the PP gauge will say around 3,000 RPM and the new tach might read 2,000 or so - again I haven't taken notes with specific numbers because it really doesn't bother me that much. But I want it to work right. Are there dip switches or something on the back of the gauge? Anyone else run into this with the analog Faria gauge replacement kit?

                              Thanks in advance.

                              Also I'll probably have some old gauges for sale if anyone wants them. The temp gauge was flaking out a bit - I suspect it could be fixed with the stepper motor replacement described by TechBeer but I didn't want to go that route, partly because I already had the replacement gauge kit. My gateway box also works fine, so that could help someone out too. This stuff is all jumbled in a box right now because I haven't had time to clean it up and organize it.

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                              • functionoverfashion, I would be VERY interested in the gateway if you are willing to part with it. Mine works OK (I think) but I would love to have one in my lab to test gauges against. I'm curious if the gateway is the same for all years 2003 -2006, maybe someone knows. I know they made some mod between 2005 and 2006 to get rid of the Pitot tubes running into the gateway. Mine is 2006 SV211 and it does NOT have the tubes running into the gateway.

                                I actually tried to create a Faria Serial Bus "emulator" based on "sniffing" the serial bus but have not been able to get the gauges to move (yet). Low priority at the moment.

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