Restoring 2001 SAN & Trailer

[Guntersville230]

Looks AWESOME!!! Reason I enjoy this message board is post like this. Get so many different ideas and at home DIY fixes that other owners can try!!! Now just a long wait till spring thaw!


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[brit_hunsicker]

Trimmed to fit the Napa heater core. Thanks for the suggestion dudebro! Worked great!



So I had a great time working on my Air/Water temp unit. I was set on fixing rather than replacing. My original problem was that the water sensor always read about 40 degrees low. I knew it had to be a bad sensor...and they do not make this unit anymore, nor could I find any old replacement parts for sale. I took a gamble and ordered the linked sensor in hopes it had the same ohm output.
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...ature-2003-05/
Once I received it, I cut the wires back at the water intake hose where the sensor goes, twisted the wires together and bingo, I had accurate readings. So my thought from here is I’m gonna do this right and take this new wire lead all the way to the gauge so I have new wire run from the back of the boat to the cockpit. I cut the wires a few inches from the gauge and spliced. Nothing no power no nothing. Realized I cut the power wires. No worries I’ll just splice them back together...did that and nothing. Now I’m getting frustrated. So 2 hours later and enough cuss words to give Webster a new edition, I’m at my wits end and I’m prepared to destroy this gauge in the process of figuring out why it won’t work. So I forced the rubber grommet out of the back of the gauge where the wires go in and out comes a molex plug with wires. Cool, they have a circuit board with molex plugs inside a sealed gauge. So I say screw it and cut a hole in the gauge, I mean what do I have to lose at this point? So long story short I cut a hole, got the plug pushed back in and spliced my wires at the intake hose where the sensor is. That’s what I get for trying to do things he right way I guess.

[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180213/8c85be1b3185abfc3486f6fc1b61b9c4.jpg[/IMG


On the search for some underwater lighting and there are several to chose from. Didn’t want to go the drain plug light route so I decided to look around. I hadn’t seen much on these Rigids but thought it’s name brand so I felt like it was a safe bet for a quality product. I was intrigued with the raw lumen output of 9,000, even though I know it’s probably a stretch of some engineers imagination. I thought man even if they over projected the light by double, I’d still be happy with 4,500 lumens. And for $300 I thought it seemed reasonably priced when compared with other popular lights. I will make sure I post feedback on several lakes of different clarity.


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[DW SD]

Great work, as usual!

I have bags in the rear and belly with impeller pump to fill . I find tension in the bag, once full, causes them to slowly drain and probably siphon out for a long time ending up 1/2 full or so. Then I fill them back up. This cycle happens every 20 or 30 minutes.

Recently I added PVC ball valves in the outlet drain lines. This was very nice and cheap upgrade as I fill them full and shut off the pump and close the valve. Water remains in the bag / tank while I’m riding.

Hope this helps.

BTW- I also have 18 X 50lb lead wake bags, which mostly sit under the rear seats or in the front of the rear lockers.

Am close to my limit now.

I’ve been evolving my ballast system for 18 months based on my surf wave and don’t think i will do any more changes.


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[Andy1972]

How did u mitigate or deal with the potential of rust inside the trailer frame tubes?

[brit_hunsicker]

How did u mitigate or deal with the potential of rust inside the trailer frame tubes?

I didn’t do anything to the inside of the tubes. From what was visible on the ends, it did not look bad at all. The trailer is no more susceptible to rust inside the tubes than the day it came out of the factory.


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[brit_hunsicker]

Well I did a thing this week and couldn’t be more happy. Have debating doing the whole SeaDek thing for a couple years now but dreaded having to make my own templates since SeaDek still doesn’t have this boat in their files... I got bored one night a few months ago and got on their website and did a search for dealers of SeaDek. I was taken by surprise to see one within 20 miles...actually within 5 miles of where I keep my boat! This happens to be the only fabricator in the Midwest. I finally got on the schedule and showed them a couple pictures of some other boats on here and showed them the areas I wanted done. Here is the finished product and I couldn’t be happier! Safe to say next winter looks like another big project coming on, cause now I need to do the floor!
2001 Super Air Nautique 210 SeakDek




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[TRIP]

Looks terrific!

[NAWTEAK]

Boat looks great. After you do the floor the only thing left is the vinyl. Tan base, black accents and red piping, that interior would be prefect.

[brit_hunsicker]

Boat looks great. After you do the floor the only thing left is the vinyl. Tan base, black accents and red piping, that interior would be prefect.

Thanks! I’m still trying to decide how I want to do the seat bases. Leave them carpet, gel coat, or what? I’ve already redone all the seat bottoms behind the windshield. While I have everything apart I’d go ahead and finish the rest of the interior. Figured I’d give C&S a couple years to get their kinks worked out before I make a big purchase from them.


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[686]

Awesome work, great thread. Thanks for sharing!

Are the ballast pumps plumbed to 3 separate bags or did you manifold some bags together? I’d like to do this on my ‘01 SAN but I don’t know much about it.

[brit_hunsicker]

Each pump goes to its own bag. After hitting the water once in February I decided I needed more weight in the rear and had in my mind that I would use lead in the rear for the additional weight. After thinking about how the rear of my boat in the lockers often gets wet...I decided I didn’t want to do lead as the bags would get moldy I feared and the lead would start to bleed through to the carpet. I upgraded to 650s in the rear and haven’t got to test that out yet. I don’t plan to fill them all the way up though. I think about 500-550 will be perfect back there. I will be taking to the lake today, so I will update with my results.


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[686]

Each pump goes to its own bag. After hitting the water once in February I decided I needed more weight in the rear and had in my mind that I would use lead in the rear for the additional weight. After thinking about how the rear of my boat in the lockers often gets wet...I decided I didn’t want to do lead as the bags would get moldy I feared and the lead would start to bleed through to the carpet. I upgraded to 650s in the rear and haven’t got to test that out yet. I don’t plan to fill them all the way up though. I think about 500-550 will be perfect back there. I will be taking to the lake today, so I will update with my results.


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Good info - so you’re pumping to the two side lockers and the ski locker?

Thanks!

[brit_hunsicker]

Good info - so you’re pumping to the two side lockers and the ski locker?

Thanks!

Yes that’s correct. Separate pump for each bag. After being out all weekend, I am extremely happy with how the ballast project turned out. The decision to put 650s in the rear lockers instead of 400s was much needed! I filled the 650s up to about 550 or so and that made all the difference in the world getting that extra 300lbs in the rear. If anyone is questioning whether the ballast upgrade is worth it or not...just bite the bullet and do it. The time it saves is unreal. Just last night I didn’t even put the boat on the lake till 6pm which is rare because it used to take 30 minutes before I was able to ride and 30 minutes afterwards before it was ready for the trailer. Now it’s literally 5 minutes before and 5 minutes after. I haven’t put a timer on it yet, but I would actually bet it’s closer to 3 or 4 minutes.

[NAWTEAK]

Thanks! I’m still trying to decide how I want to do the seat bases. Leave them carpet, gel coat, or what? I’ve already redone all the seat bottoms behind the windshield. While I have everything apart I’d go ahead and finish the rest of the interior. Figured I’d give C&S a couple years to get their kinks worked out before I make a big purchase from them.


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I guess you could paint the love seat cause it's glass but the back and port side seat bases are plastic. What would you do with the carpet on the hull sides? If you matched new carpet to the seadek there and the seat bases, that would look pretty good. As for the skins i would call the factory first, i had some hatch skins done for my 06 and the vinyl was a perfect match.

[brit_hunsicker]

I already had Christines do my seat bottoms and rear hatches. I am very happy with those so I don’t think I should have any issues with C&S. My plan was to keep the carpet on the sides. Most people do...guess I’ll figure that out when I get there!


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