Originally posted by Tryathlete
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Yep, you can have the thing. It's pretty heavy so we'll have to figure a way to get it to you (and packaging) so no big deal. I kept all the stuff for it. -
Being the guy who hopes to get your pylon--keep all the nuts and u-bolts as I gave them away to Hollywood. I covered the hole with a stainless steel tub drain cover. It looks nice to me. You may want something plastic or solid.Originally posted by gobluemike2142So, for anyone new to boating that wants to remove their pylon, here are some pics. Very straightforward, however, having a 3/4" deep socket will really save some time. I didn't have one and it took about 10 minutes. First, remove the rear seating to give access to the large floor panel in the middle (where the pylon comes up. The panel will slide up the pylon and come off (3 screws to remove) and you will see the gas tank and v-drive. Next, open the ski locker and remove the access panel to the tank area.
That's what should be there. Remove the 6 nuts (I started at the bottom with the wrench to give me room on the upper bolts). Once you get all the nuts off the top 2 u-bolts will be removable by hand. The bottom one is in a groove at the bottom of the pylon but will pull right off after you carefully lift the pylon out, just be careful since the gas tank is right there. Once out, really opens up the interior...
Now just have to order a Nautique cap or something on a PVC piece and should be good to go.
Anyway, I know for all of the experts here this is as basic as it gets, but I'm new to this hoping to give someone the courage to do some of this easy stuff if they just need the pics and instructions.
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So, for anyone new to boating that wants to remove their pylon, here are some pics. Very straightforward, however, having a 3/4" deep socket will really save some time. I didn't have one and it took about 10 minutes. First, remove the rear seating to give access to the large floor panel in the middle (where the pylon comes up. The panel will slide up the pylon and come off (3 screws to remove) and you will see the gas tank and v-drive. Next, open the ski locker and remove the access panel to the tank area.
That's what should be there. Remove the 6 nuts (I started at the bottom with the wrench to give me room on the upper bolts). Once you get all the nuts off the top 2 u-bolts will be removable by hand. The bottom one is in a groove at the bottom of the pylon but will pull right off after you carefully lift the pylon out, just be careful since the gas tank is right there. Once out, really opens up the interior...
Now just have to order a Nautique cap or something on a PVC piece and should be good to go.
Anyway, I know for all of the experts here this is as basic as it gets, but I'm new to this hoping to give someone the courage to do some of this easy stuff if they just need the pics and instructions.Leave a comment:
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Yep, popped it open and the bolts are there easy as can be. I will work on it tonight and take some pics for future reference for someone else who needs them. Might be a tight squeeze but looks easy. Also looks like there may be a pin at the bottom of the pylon as well. I'll do the bolts first and go from there. 6 bolts.Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedYep...believe you have to open the ski locker & open the through hatch plastic round piece to best access...an extra hand doesn't hurt...
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Roy, I pulled the floor piece up and see the 2 or 3 bolts in front of the gas tank that hold the pylon in. However, it appears the nuts are accessible from the ski locker in the belly one compartment forward, does that sound right? I ran out of time and didn't want to mess with it last night. I think there is a black circular panel piece in the belly that comes out that should get me access to the nuts on the u-bolts. Hopefully will get to it tonight. Rain was non-stop yesterday.Originally posted by roymiz View PostLeave a comment:
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Guest replied2 U-bolts...takes 10 minutes
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Is that pylon thing a pain to get out? I see yours is gone and I pick my '96 up on Friday so curious how that thing comes out.Leave a comment:
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In my 97 there was a pvc ring behind the speaker and it was 2" thick. I used a table saw to cut it down to 1". Screw it back in.Leave a comment:
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I paid $33 for 6 of them when I added cupholders to the cubby between the speakers in the main lounge of my boat. That seller doesn't seem to be around any more but below is another example of 5 for $28.50. If you hunt around Ebay a little you might find a better deal. It seems like the more you buy the cheaper they get.Originally posted by brock.higdon View Post
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Stainle...item27f8349a7c
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Just with the heim joints they are not really made to be used like that you may want to put something on the other side so it can pull all togather other wise the joint will stuff out or the bolt will bend ......Leave a comment:
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Link for the cup holders, please.Originally posted by s_kelley2000 View PostLeave a comment:
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The stainless cup holders make a huge difference. I found some off ebay that come direct form China that are almost exactly the same as the OEM cup holders and a fraction of the price. Let me know if you want me to dig up the link. Stainless bilge/ballast through hulls are a nice cheapish upgrade as well.Leave a comment:
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