Newbie winterization

[DocPhil]

True, but then you're draining anti-freeze right back out of your block - and trying to get those small plugs back in while it's pouring over your hand seems less than fun.

Meh...you wouldn't pull it all the way out. The fluid will start to seep as you get close to the end of the thread then you would quickly screw back in. Would lose a few drops max.

It is an easy and solid way to check if you have AF in the block. I plan on doing this after the suck up method just to confirm the T stat stayed open while draining.

[scottb7]

What you consider clear and concise, others disagree with. I defend the fact that these things become a debate sometimes, and I disagree with starting a debate thread. If you don't like what it became then disregard it.

I don't see how you can avoid the debate. Do you want only the first persons that responds opinion? And others are supposed to disagree in a different thread? How would that work for you, if the first person is wrong?

As posted above you could have read the manual and skipped posting.

[Tom_H]

Meh...you wouldn't pull it all the way out. The fluid will start to seep as you get close to the end of the thread then you would quickly screw back in. Would lose a few drops max.

It is an easy and solid way to check if you have AF in the block. I plan on doing this after the suck up method just to confirm the T stat stayed open while draining.

If you're draining before sucking up anti-freeze, you don't need to worry about the thermostat being open or closed. The anti-freeze will enter through the circulation pump until full on an empty block. The thermostat is the outlet.

[Tom_H]

What you consider clear and concise others disagree with. I defend the fact that these things become a debate sometimes, and I disagree with starting a debate thread. If you don't like what it became then disregard it. I don't see how you can avoid the debate. Do you want only the first persons that responds opinion?

He stated how he planned to do it - drain and add anti-freeze. He was looking for how to get the anti-freeze in, so there really wasn't a reason for debate.

There's really only two options for adding anti-freeze. Pour it in at the thermostat or J-tube hoses, or suck it up with the raw water pump inlet. I prefer the pour method because I'm done with running the engine by the time I get to adding anti-freeze, but either way works just fine on an empty block.

[scottb7]

Yeah, but no one but administrator can control what these threads become...Like how come you are debating the debating? You could have not posted the above, just like I could have not, and he could have not....

[Tom_H]

Yeah, but no one but administrator can control what these threads become...Like how come you are debating the debating? You could have not posted the above, just like I could have not, and he could have not....

True True

[DocPhil]

If you're draining before sucking up anti-freeze, you don't need to worry about the thermostat being open or closed. The anti-freeze will enter through the circulation pump until full on an empty block. The thermostat is the outlet.

Really? I was under the impression the T stat is the inlet to the motor?

So the T stat is the outlet to what exactly? Out of the motor to the exhaust only? So what would I check to confirm the T stat was open during suck up? Exhaust manifolds?

[Quinner]

Doc, like Tom stated above as long as you drain first you will be fine. TStat plays no important role really as long as you drain first. And yes closed it only prevents the liquid from leaving the block and out the exhaust.

Looks like someone deleted a post, lol.

What creates confusion in these threads is any mention of the TStat position or a need to warm up so stat is open, drain first and then follow whatever antifreeze introduction you like. For me the suck up method is my preference.

[Tom_H]

Really? I was under the impression the T stat is the inlet to the motor?

So the T stat is the outlet to what exactly? Out of the motor to the exhaust only? So what would I check to confirm the T stat was open during suck up? Exhaust manifolds?

What engine do you have? Are you fully raw water cooled, or a partial system where the raw water is running through a heat exchanger and then out the manifolds.

If you have a full raw water cooling system, then the raw water pump sends water to the top of the thermostat. From there it can go either down through the J-tube and circulation pump into the block or directly to the exhaust manifolds. Water that enters the block flows through the water jacket and will exit the block at the thermostat and then recirculate or exit to the exhaust. The amount of water that will circulate through the block is dependent on how much the thermostat is open and letting out. If you drain a block first, pretty much any liquid (water or anti-freeze) coming from the raw water pump will go down the j-tube and through the block until it fills up. Once full, it will either start exiting from the thermostat (if open) or just shunt water straight to the exhaust manifolds.

If you have a partial closed loop system, then you have anti-freeze in the engine block that is circulated through the block and heat exhanger (which is raw water cooled). I would assume in this system that you're only draining the raw water portion - but would depend on coolant in the boat, and if it could handle the temperature. I've never had a partial closed cooling system, so don't take anything I say on that as gospel.

[DocPhil]

What engine do you have? Are you fully raw water cooled, or a partial system where the raw water is running through a heat exchanger and then out the manifolds.

If you have a full raw water cooling system, then the raw water pump sends water to the top of the thermostat. From there it can go either down through the J-tube and circulation pump into the block or directly to the exhaust manifolds. Water that enters the block flows through the water jacket and will exit the block at the thermostat and then recirculate or exit to the exhaust. The amount of water that will circulate through the block is dependent on how much the thermostat is open and letting out. If you drain a block first, pretty much any liquid (water or anti-freeze) coming from the raw water pump will go down the j-tube and through the block until it fills up. Once full, it will either start exiting from the thermostat (if open) or just shunt water straight to the exhaust manifolds.

If you have a partial closed loop system, then you have anti-freeze in the engine block that is circulated through the block and heat exhanger (which is raw water cooled). I would assume in this system that you're only draining the raw water portion - but would depend on coolant in the boat, and if it could handle the temperature. I've never had a partial closed cooling system, so don't take anything I say on that as gospel.

I have an open cooled PCM 343.

This is helpful thank you.

So tell me this....if you drain first, why bother getting your boat up to temperature? Why not just drain the block/manifolds/v drive then suck up antifreeze directly after that in a cold engine?

[Quinner]

I have an open cooled PCM 343.

This is helpful thank you.

So tell me this....if you drain first, why bother getting your boat up to temperature? Why not just drain the block/manifolds/v drive then suck up antifreeze directly after that in a cold engine?

Precisely!! TStat position is not important and warm or cold does not matter when back filling a drained system!!!!!

[Tom_H]

You don't need to get up to temp for the drain/anti-freeze fill. However, some still will if changing oil, and looking to heat up the oil to aid in draining/extraction. If you haven't gotten stabilized fuel through the system - that could also be another reason to run up the engine prior to draining.

[DocPhil]

OK so let me get this straight cause it is very important. I was going to dry block it this year but my OCD took over and I decided to add AF. I tried pouring into the engine but wasn't satisfied so I am going to do the suck up method. I would rather not run the engine so.......

If I attach a sump pump hose to a bucket with 5-6 gallons of AF on one end and insert after the sea strainer on the other end and run 5-6 gallons through on a cold engine, it will get everywhere it needs to go?

[DocPhil]

One caveat: the block and manifolds are basically full of AF right now. The only thing that might not be full is the v drive and tranny

[Tom_H]

If you pulled the impeller out of the raw water pump, I could see that working. Otherwise, you might dead-head against the raw water pump and not make it to your V-drive. If you pulled the raw water pump outlet hose off, then you could either pour in there, or put your pump hose in there, and you would be pushing through the V-drive. As far as the tranny cooler goes, just pop the inlet hose off and just make sure it's drained.