This is a sticky topic.
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Do you have any information on the under dash wiring with perfect pass for the new kit i feel like i have figured out everything but not completely sure i have the cruise wired up correct thanks
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I'm having some issues with my gauges intermittently not working. 2007 SV211 Team Edition. Here's a thread I started with more detail (LINK). I'd like to try TechBeer's fix but am unsure if it will totally resolve my issues as my LCD display on my RPM gauge shows signs of not working properly and will sometimes show partial characters.
Has anyone tried that fix in a similar situation? I'm planning to pull my gateway box this week to inspect for corrosion and clean if necessary.
Lastly, does the Nautique Parts faria gateway replacement kit include depth?
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does anyone have pictures of how gateway wires into new 1246 conversion with gauges
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TechBeerOriginally posted by TechBeer View PostIf you get this far in this thread and have 1 or more of your gauges out AND don't want to shell out the big bucks for the bypass kit private message me. I have fixed ~20 or so of these gauges at 100% for a bunch of members. It's not that difficult and seems to be a permanent fix. In my experience if any of the gauges work OR if your LCD on the larger gauges still works then it's likely NOT the gateway, it's the gauges. However.....if you have an earlier boat where the pitot tubes run into the gateway and haven't fixed this problem then it could very well be your gateway.
I have a fuel gauge that I need repaired… I am new and unable to private message you. Can you PM me?
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A Signature Edition would not have this issue since those boats don't use a gateway.
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I purchased a 2009 206 Signature at the end of last season. Before winterization, the tech told me that all the gauges were dead. Is this the same issue with later models?
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Hello
im writing from switzerland. So excuse my english, not so familiar with.
I'm a new member here, so dont know exactly what was written about this tooic.
i read quite a few pages.
I had the same issue with 3 of 4 gauges 2" were dead.
onöy flickering and the needle ticks slightley.
I figured out, that de smd 22uf 10V Elkos were the Problem on my gauges.
first i replaced e times the steppermotor.
no change.
Then i went on the capacitors.
Cause they dry out by time,
orderd some 22uf 25v smd aluminum capacitors.
and replaced them.
Result Led's light up again and the needle (steppermotor) started working again
I guess the elkos csuses the failure on thr gauges.
if the gateway is working properly of course.
Little tricky to do the smd soldering.But works with thin 0.5mm zinn wire.
and with e small poimt soldertip.
The old caps. I cutted them of with a cutter tweezer, so i could de solder the conectors.
then placed the new ones.
Thought to share this infos, although it it an old topic
Greets from switzerland
Alex
new Elkos
Old elkos
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TechBeer New member here so cant send PM's yet. Just got a 2006 220 and speedo/tach gauges are not working. Everything else works and the stargazer perfect pass displays all info needed but would like to get the other two gauges working and the depth display working. Any ideas? This is new to me so trying to learn and play catch up on this topic.
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If you get this far in this thread and have 1 or more of your gauges out AND don't want to shell out the big bucks for the bypass kit private message me. I have fixed ~20 or so of these gauges at 100% for a bunch of members. It's not that difficult and seems to be a permanent fix. In my experience if any of the gauges work OR if your LCD on the larger gauges still works then it's likely NOT the gateway, it's the gauges. However.....if you have an earlier boat where the pitot tubes run into the gateway and haven't fixed this problem then it could very well be your gateway.
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Thanks for the info! I am just seeing a lag in the tach, if I slowly ramp the throttle it is fine. When I punch it to lift a skier.. it is just slightly slower. It is not a huge issue, just interested if there is a way to improve.
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Will do. What kind of lag are you seeing?Originally posted by fsts2k View Post
Can you let us know what you find? I have found that the new gauges, while they work well, have a bit of a lag as well.
My speedometer is GPS (previous owner converted it) and works perfectly. The tach reads low, all the time. I haven't taken data on it but maybe I should do that.
The others seem fine but I have to admit, the volt gauge doesn't quite get to 14-15. I know the charging system is working great and there's an ACR and a battery switch, two batteries, lots of connections. So I figure, if the system is working and the gauge just reads 12-13 as "normal" then I'm fine. The tach, however, I want to be accurate and it's not.
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Can you let us know what you find? I have found that the new gauges, while they work well, have a bit of a lag as well.Originally posted by functionoverfashion View PostI just did this last year and vaguely remember being confused at this step also. If you're still trying to figure it out, I've gotta take my dash off in the next few days anyway, so I can snap a few pics of these connectors in their completed state. I will say, my new analog tachometer reads a little slow, which is why I'm taking the dash off to see if there's a switch in the wrong position on the back of the tach. Let me know if you want some pics.
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I just did this last year and vaguely remember being confused at this step also. If you're still trying to figure it out, I've gotta take my dash off in the next few days anyway, so I can snap a few pics of these connectors in their completed state. I will say, my new analog tachometer reads a little slow, which is why I'm taking the dash off to see if there's a switch in the wrong position on the back of the tach. Let me know if you want some pics.
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samdatx Check out this thread for a potential aftermarket kit;
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...ge-replacement
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Thanks...sorry for missing that
I am questioning the following step:
I believe I have the correct tan engine temp wire, but the next image is unclear to me
Is the Perfect Pass tach wire in the 12-pin connector or a separate wire? Is it labeled?
Thanks again!
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