Ballast System Planning - '99 SAN

[MI-Nick]

man, now you've go me thinking again...looking only at the intake side, the cost of the 1 1/4" manifold system is ~ $122...three 3/4" system would be ~$86....so almost $40 less...now the question is which system is going to be simpler and more reliable overall...the cross manifold system would also be ~ 5" taller than the 3/4" system...i really wish I knew how much space I had down there...

if i do go with 3 3/4"...i'll buy 3 new fittings so i don't have the issues with the scoop and they would all match...

[crobi2]

I posted the question once "if anyone has ever been able to remove the factory 3/4" scoop ballast system thru hull" and no one ever answered it. I'm concerned that if they used 5200, it might not be easy (or possible) to get it out. It's on the bottom of the boat anyway, it has a great seacok on it already, and if you have an air compressor, easy to modify with a cutoff saw. I would just use it. Either try to extend the scoop slots with cuts/holes or cut off the scoop entirely like Seth did.

I put my new 1" thru hull on the starboard side next to the engine raw water intake. There is plenty of space on both sides for more, wish I could link you to some of the fantastic pictures that I have seen of other peoples' systems.

Be sure not to foul your perfect pass paddle wheel or your engine raw water intake and you're good to go.

[MI-Nick]

i read about a trick for the 5200 using a "hot wire"...basically a length of wire connected to a battery. but, i'd rather just cut off the scoop...and if i only need to buy 2 through hulls and 2 valves...that makes the 3 3/4" system about $65 less than the 1 1/4"...almost a no brainer at that point...

[vanislwake]

glad your starting to see the light! haha plus i guarantee plumbing with seperate thru hulls is easier and really requires less room as that triple manifold takes up a good chunk of space. definatley keep the factory thru hull just buzz of the scupper grates.

[wake_fun]

Just do the one 1.5" thru fitting and be done with it. You can empty, fill, and do whatever you want with it. Simple.

[Chexi]

Also, if you use a galvanized cross instead of a bronze one, it is way cheaper. A galvanized 1.5" cross should be around $10 tops.

That said, if you are going to use your existing thru-hull it might be cheaper to go with 3 separate systems. The only issue I have with that system is that if you ever want to piggy back a 4th pump for a 4th bag, you will probably need to add another setup. A 1.5" cross setup can handle more than 4 pumps.

[MI-Nick]

haha, i like to look into all the details before i make a decision...probably order the parts this weekend...

[ski4evr]

I used 1.5" bronze up to the shut off valve, then pvc for the rest. Much cheaper, easier to install and lighter. Used all season last year, no problems or leaks. Can fill and empty in any combination with that size pipe.

[MI-Nick]

you guys are funny.

1 1/2" intake is easily the most expensive way by about $80...and way over the needed fill capacity. 1 1/4" would be plenty for 3 or even 4 ballast puppies...and would be the largest size i would consider.

for the cross, i was using Polypropylene for my cost estimates...~$20...galvanized is a little more...and WILL corrode (i'll show you my galvanized dock posts if you don't believe me). so i would not consider galvanized.

a 3/4" through hull should be able to support 2 ballast puppies so I could T off one of the intakes if I ever want to add a 4th pump.

a PVC manifold would surely be cheaper...but, the total intake cost would still be more than with 3 3/4" intakes. PVC manifold would also take up more space than a single Polypro cross.

so, finally (maybe), i'm going with 3 3/4" intakes...it is the lowest cost, most compact, has more than the required flow capacity, and I would consider it to be the "cleanest" setup.

thanks again for all your input.

[MI-Nick]

i've ordered most of my parts...now waiting...and waiting for a little warmer weather.

been thinking about wiring for the switches and pumps. my first idea is to run a couple leads from the battery to a bus bar and then from the bus bar to each switch (with a fuse on each + wire) and back and from each switch to each pump. this would have 6, runs of 2 12Ga wire...maybe a little bulky.clearly i need to wire each switch individually to each pump...but can I get power from one of the acc. breakers at the helm and run a wire to the first switch, second switch, third switch...instead of wiring each switch to the bus bar/battery?? or, are both of these ideas completely off base?? wiring get's a little confusing for me...

[crobi2]

You'll probably want to run a heavier gauge (8 or6) wire directly from the battery to your switch panel with a fuze at the battery. Then you will have your myriad of wires going from switches to pumps.

You can put a bus bar for the negative wires closer to the pumps and wire it directly to the battery also.

[wake_fun]

I did this..........
http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...l-Perko-Switch

[MI-Nick]

well I made the long drive down to NC and the boat is now in my driveway . spent all day yesterday basically gutting the boat and removing anything that had to do with the old factory ballast system including the through hull. i was thinking about cutting off the grates and scoop...but, now I think i'll just get one more 3/4" fitting. as easy as cutting the old one up would be...i'd rather have 3 matching fittings. i'll just fill the extra 2 screw holes with thickened resin and be done with. I've also decided to add the 2 new through hulls just rearward of the existing one. seems to be plenty of room there and makes the plumbing more compact. planning to bolt the pumps with rubber grommets directly to the fiberglass rr seat reinforcement...seems plenty strong to me. the last thing i figured out is where to mount the switches...i'm going to make a simple aluminum plate and mount it exactly where the factory knobs and switch was. now i just need some time to work...

[crobi2]

Please take pictures and let us know how easy it is to get that old 3/4" scoop off of the hull.

[MI-Nick]

what do you want a photo of?? i already took it off and it wasn't too bad. i grabbed it with channel locks from the the bottom and twisted and it broke loose. whatever they used to seal it to the hull with was a HUGE PITA to get off...scraping, rubbing, peeling...not fun...