Clunky surge brakes

[mf01]

I think it would be more likely that you have a whell cylinder sticking than a master cylinder.

It doesn't take much rist or dirt in the wheel cylinder to make the hydraulically actuated pin stick. Usually they stick with the breaks on. If they are catching and then releasing, you may feel a clunk.

Are you able to tell if the clunk is in the wheels/brakes, or if it is in the trailer tongue?

Have you actuated the brakes by hand? If put your hitch into the tongue, and actuate the brakes by hand, it should be very stiff. If not, bleed the brakes again, and make sure the reservoir is full.

My $.02.

BKH

It seems to be from the hitch, but I feel it through the truck. I'm going to try cleaning up the master cylinder and if that doesn't work, I'll work my way back. If it's the rear drums, I'll probably replace with discs. Does anyone know if I can use this? http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/cus...?kc=D212EK&eq=

I'd need to change the orifice on the master cylinder. Anything else?

[steve-o]

That brake kit will work, but you can get much cheaper kits from other places. I think Trailers by Dorsey has disc brake conversion kits ready to go for under $250. They are tie down. I got my Kodiak kit from Champion Trailers in Slidell for under $300. Those kits also come with lines, which you will need for disc brakes as the calipers float in those Kodiak kits.


For the orifice, you don't need to replace it, you need to remove it. Here is a picture of it.

[steve-o]

I found the article I was looking for. Champion has alot of info available on their site.

http://www.championtrailers.com/remo...dual_valve.htm

[jmo]

If you upgrade to disk brakes, which I have done and am very happy with, in addition to either replacing the actuator or punching a hole in the orifice that maintains positive pressure for the drum brakes, you will need to install a reverse solenoid to prevent the brakes from engaging when you back up (drum brakes only work while going forward, disk work in either direction).

If you search around there are threads on the drum to disk conversion.

JMO

[mf01]

If you upgrade to disk brakes, which I have done and am very happy with, in addition to either replacing the actuator or punching a hole in the orifice that maintains positive pressure for the drum brakes, you will need to install a reverse solenoid to prevent the brakes from engaging when you back up (drum brakes only work while going forward, disk work in either direction).

If you search around there are threads on the drum to disk conversion.

JMO

Yeah, I read about the solenoids. I do have a manual reverse locking pin, which I was planning on using. The common times that I reverse the trailer are also times that I stop and get out (prepping boat at ramp, letting people out at home).

[bkhallpass]

If you upgrade to disk brakes, which I have done and am very happy with, in addition to either replacing the actuator or punching a hole in the orifice that maintains positive pressure for the drum brakes, you will need to install a reverse solenoid to prevent the brakes from engaging when you back up (drum brakes only work while going forward, disk work in either direction).

If you search around there are threads on the drum to disk conversion.

JMO

?????? Drum brakes work in reverse. Typically the trailer either come with a mechanical device to lock up the tongue so the brakes won't actuate when reversing, or they come with a fifth pin that electronically actuates a lock when you put the car in reverse. Often times when backing up at slow speeds, the drum brakes won't activate because you don't put enough pressure on the tongue to compress the actuator. Backing up a driveway, will very often put the brakes on "in reverse" unless you have a lockout.

BKH

[mf01]

I don't use the locking pin on my current drum brakes. They don't typically generate full power. I can see if you have to back up something, but my driveway is flat.

[steve-o]

He means drum brakes don't work well in reverse. They don't have near the hydraulic pressure of disc and allow the wheels to rotate nearly freely in reverse. When going forward, the load placed on the actuator increases the drum barking force so they work much better. Drum brakes rely heavily on the inertia of the trailer. Disc not so much.

I don't like the Atwood lockout pin slide as it disengages whenever the actuator is pulled forward, so if you are stabbing a boat into a narrow spot and need to pull forward; you have to re-engage the pin each time.

[bkhallpass]

I don't like the Atwood lockout pin slide as it disengages whenever the actuator is pulled forward, so if you are stabbing a boat into a narrow spot and need to pull forward; you have to re-engage the pin each time.

It is a PITA.

BKH

[mf01]

I don't like the Atwood lockout pin slide as it disengages whenever the actuator is pulled forward, so if you are stabbing a boat into a narrow spot and need to pull forward; you have to re-engage the pin each time.

Good to know. If I go the disc route, I'll get the solenoid.

[steve-o]

I had a question about reassembly so I am posting this picture here. Note the spring direction.

[mf01]

Got the master cylinder back together, flushed, and bled. I was going to adjust the drums and found that the left bearings sound shot. I replaced the hub on that side last summer and I think they gave me the wrong seal. There was grease everywhere. Now I need to find the bearings and seals somewhere tomorrow.

[pdxCC]

I'm goign through the same process. I just took my master cylinder off and it appears that my pushrod is missing. I am also trying to tear down my master, but my piston is very stiff and I cannot get it out of the housing after the snap ring is removed. Should I trash it and just order the repair kits?

[steve-o]

I think one of the major expenses on the systems is the housing, so if you get get just the master cylinder and parts, which I think you can, you can save some coin.