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1995 super sport restoration

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Chris Parsons View Post
    Definitely already disconnected it. That thing is a pain.

    We just turned ours into a manual open with a locking latch on the old boat when the ram died. If u throw in a pneumatic assist open it would be perfect. Even just a locking mechanism to keep it open when u need to fiddle with something back there would be good. We will miss the full pad for sunbathing/dance parties.


    • #17
      I've bought 4 gas shocks. 2 for the center pice and 1 for each side piece that I'll use. I need to build the dividers for the hatches to rest on but that is down the road quite a ways. I've read a lot about creating some sort of backing plate for the gas shocks to attach to as not to crack the fiberglass or gelcoat. More to come after the floor is finished.


      • #18
        Originally posted by Rockymtnsurfer View Post
        Are you Gel coating floor?
        I've thought a ton about this over the weekend. I think I'm going to do gelcoat. It will take a bit of time and learning but from what I can tell so little of it actually will show that I should be good if I take my time making sure the fit and finish looks good. For now I'm just going to start sanding. I'll post updates after I start. This next week will be a bit slow as I'm actually getting some hours at work. After next week I'm wide open for the forseable future to do projects.


        • #19
          Hey I was in the same predicament last year. I replaced the carpet the year before last and it was nice, but after spending time in the G23 with SedDek last season, I have to say I liked it better and was less anal about food and the kids. So.......I had bought this product and never used it.

          When I did the carpet replacement, I felt the rear compartments were a terrible place for carpet and did nothing to them (left pink fiberglass) So....
          I decide to not waste this product and to try it out on the rear compartment this spring (actually 3 weeks ago I think)

          Prepped floor ok...not great. Guy at their shop said finish with 80grit. took out bumps and obviously glue and any other debris. Used acetone for final clean. Used mixing ratio with a little extra hardener (due to my temps and living in the mountains and my shop temp)

          I was told to put it on thick and it would level (guys at the company couldn't have been more nice and informative)

          I did one coat, I was very surprised ......actually came out nice. I know two coats would even make it nicer, but being back was more of a test than anything.

          I used a brush......can be rolled or sprayed as well per instructions.

          Now...I could have used tape for edges and I know I could have made it look a lot cleaner, but was more just to test the overall product and see what the outcome was.

          I am now considering doing the main floor. There are threads for the compartment covers, and this has to be done. I believe some used new board, and some built up the original ones. This seems to bee the hardest part......(now that I tried the gel coat)

          I also have considered only doing the areas in between the SeaDek, but I know think it SeaDek might not adhere as well and might be sloped on those areas.

          I you want pics, I can go into my shop today and take some, but not sure how well it will show final look,,,let me know.

          All this is just food for thought. If you go ahead and do some kind of gelcoat, please post process. It might convince me more or less

          Happy Easter


          • #20
            [QUOTE=Rockymtnsurfer;n604968]Hey I was in the same predicament last year. I replaced the carpet the year before last and it was nice, but after spending time in the G23 with SedDek last season, I have to say I liked it better and was less anal about food and the kids. So.......I had bought this product and never used it.


            I'm very seriously leaning towards geocoat. Currently shopping the correct products. I just picked up some microballoons to use with a polyester resin to level the floors.

            No work this week but I expect some progress to be made the following. Thanks for the link. Ill take a look.

            Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

            Last edited by Chris Parsons; 04-13-2020, 04:25 PM.


            • #21
              here are the pics I was PM you about. Remember......only lightly sanded pink fiberglass....and rear back drops....nothing was sanding. So you will see it looks rough, but actually is smooth to where those non-sanded parts don't scratch. Also did not tape off carpet or anything. I just did it because I had it and wanted to test how it worked. Also...only one coat.
              Attached Files


              • #22
                I sanded for about an hour today. Everything everyone says is true. Sanding is a bitch. Spent an hour and barely made a dent 60 grit. Two sanding belts already. I have an electric belt sander. Dont even attempt this without one.

                Trying to sand down the high points and I'll fill the lows end of next week. Hopefully.

                Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

                Last edited by Chris Parsons; 04-17-2020, 11:27 PM.


                • #23
                  Why would you worry so much about how level the floor is? Once you put down Seadek or whatever, you won't notice any unevenness and I can almost guarantee nobody else will either. Might be easier to just float the floor and it'll self level.


                  • #24
                    I've thought the same thing. Im definitely going to bring up the floor with some resin, cabosil, and /or microballoons.

                    But I so think you will be able to see the how not level it is and im also worried about water on the seadek. And it getting under it.

                    I really need to be focused on how to fill the gap between the gas tank hatch and the ski locker.


                    Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


                    • #25


                      • #26
                        Yeah I remember reading that thread. He used Coosa board to rebuild the gas hatch. Another $300. Kinda tired of spending money. Haha.

                        I may do that myself although the v drive sticks up through the tank cover.

                        Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


                        • #27
                          Today I skimmed a coat of polyestet resin mixed with microballoons. This may be the answer since sanding it level definitely is not. Easy to sand and lays down well. Im experimenting with the ratios and will report back what I think is the best application moving forward. I liked the last batch I got but may thin out the microballoons a little for a more liquidity consistency. After watching dozens of hours to understand how resin and gelcoat works I would compare the consistency to total boats totalfair.

                          Photo is of first skim. More to come then sanding.

                          Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


                          • #28
                            Chris, this is a great thread on current methods to do this. I am starting the same project next week. I too have loads of time on my hands. Finishing the engine rebuild this week. You mentioned Totalboats Total Flair. There is also FGCI's Gelcoat Putty. I've been reading up on these. I am dredding the sanding stage and likewise would rather try to level. Is thre a reason you are going with the resin/microballoon route over the Fairing/Putty product?


                            • #29
                              I'm actually really happy I went the microballoons route. So far I'm almost done with the prep work prior to gelcoat. Maybe a few more days with a few hours here and there.

                              I've purchased 2 gallons of resin and I'm not even through my second gallon yet. I also have a 5 gallon bucket of microballoons and I'm not through 2 gallons yet. It mixes in a ratio of about 1:2 or 1:3 depending the thickness you want. Ive been using 4 oz of resin with 8 to 12 oz of microbaloons. It shrinks down to less after you mix.

                              It really has the consistency of the total fair I was looking for. Almost a bondo putty. It sands okay but probably not as well as total fair. I'm using thin coats and doing my best to eliminate sanding as much as possible. I went the leveling route with just a little sanding and thats def the way to go. Don't try to sand the fiberglas. Waste of time.

                              I've gotten way more product for my dollar. Ill have some left over for a custom side panel speaker box I will work on later.

                              Squaring the gaps in the hatch is even coming along well as I've used resin and glass chop matt. I'm close with that as well. First 2 photos are of the chop matt going on before dabbing it with resin.

                              I get some hours at work next week but I fully anticipate gelcoating the following week. I got my samples from aqua marine deck this week and ordered the kit to do round one of sketching the boat out.

                              Let me know if you have specific questions or wanna chat. I'll post a few photos if anyone has questions.

                              3rd photo I used a multi tool after every 3 to 4 layers of chop matt to cut.

                              Deciding on which color!

                              I'll post some photos of it all level later.

                              Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

                              Last edited by Chris Parsons; 04-30-2020, 10:29 PM.


                              • #30
                                I'm doing this on my 96 Sport...I see you have a 97 Sport. You still have carpet in the 97?