Clarion stereo remote cable

[SilentSeven]

Need to run the newer clarion 8 pin cable from the glove box to the dash console as part of a stereo upgrade project. Looking for insights swapping the cable. Boat is a 2004 206 - has the open bow walk through passage so the cable somehow runs under the floor.

1 / what length of cable to get? I believe the 10 foot size would be sufficient.
2 / any insights on how the cable is run? Is there a dedicated cable run under the floor? Any tips on how to pull a new cable?

Haven't yet dug into the boat to actually inspect - looking for initial information.

Thanks!

[bturner]

I have nothing but can't wait to see if anyone knows. I've been taking the long route around the bow but would love to redo that if there is an actual passage directly from the passenger to driver side dashes.

[SilentSeven]

Hmmm. Looks like no one active knows.

Maybe it wraps around somehow. That would be a simpler approach. I guess I'll do some poking around to see how it's run before ordering the new 8 pin cable. They come in 10, 25 and even 35 foot lengths. Obviously the 25 foot option is the safe order but I'd prefer to keep things tidy if possible.

[bturner]

Some type of sealed channel would make tons of sense but I've never seen one or at least never been able to where one might be. If there was on I'd bet the cabling would be tie wrapped every foot or so, so you couldn't pull any of the old cabling out.

It just makes too much sense so I'm sure there isn't anything there.....

[jpwhit]

I don’t know about the 206, but on the 200 the cables that go from the dash area to the passenger side dash area run around the bow in the underside of the upper fiberglass shell. They are well secured so you can’t easily pull them out.

[SilentSeven]

Thanks jpwhit ....helpful clue. I'm going to guess the 206 is similar. I'll try to poke around this weekend and see what I can find out. Just might need that 25 foot cable after all.

[bturner]

When I added my amp on my 200V Sport I used some 5200 to stick some tie wrap mounts to the inner underside of the bow rider seating base then ran the cable from the existing breaker along the path I created with the tie wrap mounts. They've been up there for 5 seasons now so that worked. Not pretty or the way I had hoped to run the cables but it worked. Using the inner path probably saved me a good 3' of cable and probably 6' when you consider I needed power and ground cables for the amp power.

[SilentSeven]

Whoa. Seated them in 5200. You don't mess around. Thanks for the suggestion bturner...those clips are a great idea.

[bturner]

They kept falling off from the weight of the power cables and the 5200 is what I had laying around at the time. I'm sure some constructions adhesive that dries fast would work just as well. One you have them in place you can reuse them should you need to replace the cables or add to them. Cut the tie wrap, remove the old one and reuse the base.

They make those in different sizes for the widths of various tie wraps. Home Depot sells them by the bag in the electrical department and you can actually see the size you're buying.

[MN Ryan]

This had me curious, so I poked around in my 211 while emptying it the other day. Mine runs around the bow. It's not secured (and I know the head unit and remote were replaced by the previous owner), but honestly, you'd never know it was there if you weren't searching for it. Different boat, I know, but it's a data point for you.

[SilentSeven]

Had a few minutes to take a look at how the cable is run. Its like MN Ryan says - on the passenger side, runs forward at gunnel height disappearing into the bow area. On the driver's side the cable appears again from gunnel height running across the console to the remote.

Doesn't look fun to swap in a new cable. I think several limber, well trained monkey's would be helpful. Sadly, none available. Gonna order the 25 ft cable as I can't see any way the 10 ft cable will be long enough.