Adding lighting to un-used dash switches

[NBaas]

Apologies if this has been covered. I have looked through the forums, I promise.
I am adding some lights to a 2001 year Ski 196.
Docking light, tower mounted anchor light, and transom mounted lights.
I can add aftermarket switches and make it work, but I think it would be cool to use the dash switches that are not used on my boat model (ballast fill, ballast empty, etc.)
I found a 6-pin connecter on the back of the engine that I think may have been the wiring for boats with those options?
Can I tie into those wires to use the dash switches without tearing apart the dash?
If not, has anyone wired in accessories to the (on-off-bilge) switch under the drivers feet?
I'm uploading a pic of the connector I'm talking about.
Thanks everyone!

[RoboSanLucas]

Is the boat you are adding options to the boat in your profile pic? If so, I may be mistaken, but it looks like you have the 216, not the 196. The 2001 216 was the "Air Nautique" configuration that had a tower, ballast tanks, and the direct drive engine (typically the GT40), and the Air Nautique logo. My first Nautique was a 2001 216, and it was such a great boat! Absolutely bullet proof. The 196 would be the shorter configuration that would likely not have included the tower, ballast tanks or the "Air" Nautique logos. Anyways, great boat either way, but I digress!

What you are asking about is certainly doable, but you need to know what switches you are connecting to. How much current they can support, and so on. I would definitely not tap into that 6-pin connector in the engine compartment, unless you know exactly what it is (your local dealer could probably tell you). A lot of the options you are mentioning, like underwater lights and tower lights were not available back in 2001 and the boats were not wired to support those options. "IF" that 6-pin connector was indeed for the ballast tank option, that it sounds like your boat is not equipped with from your post, it may be able to handle lights, but you need to know the numbers, i.e. required amperage of the lights you plan to install, wire gauge you are utilizing (especially if attempting to use factory wires and not add new wiring), length of the existing wire runs, plus whatever you plan to add, etc.). Some light brands require their own independent power supply wires, due to the high amount of current they can draw, while other less powerful options may be suitable to just tie into factory wires. Some lights only read a signal from the factory wires or switch (like a 12V on or off signal to turn the light on or off, which sounds like what you are hoping to do) and then also require brand new power runs to support the amount of current they draw.

Long answer to say, yes being able to turn tower or underwater lights on and off through the extra dash switches is easily doable. But you need to know the product you are installing very well and ensure the switches you plan to use can support whatever you are asking of them. Just be sure you know what wires and switches you are tapping into and if they can support the devices you plan to add.

[jpwhit]

That connector on the back of the engine looks like the diagnostics connector.

[bturner]

I would be more inclined to wire in from the dash and make my own harness or cable runs to the devices you want to add. I would also really try to avoid splicing into the harness at all costs as this will only create a wiring problem down the road when said splice coronides. Whatever you do resist the urge to use vampire splices. These are horrible idea IMO for any electrical project.

A good place to start to get a basic understanding of the wiring scheme would be with a wiring diagram for the boat or at least something close to one which you can find here.....

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...iring-diagrams

For the tower anchor light, I would see if you can use use a spade jumper like the one below to tag on the existing anchor light circuit and run the new circuit to the tower.



If this is a factory installed tower, many were pre-wired and may already have a anchor light circuit wired into the tower. If this is the case you could simply complete the circuit from the newly added jumper to the wire in the tower going to the added tower anchor light. While this is not at all a requirement, if you're concerned about current draw you may want to consider retrofitting the navigation bulbs with LEDs, which would greatly reduce power draw. You can get marine rated replacement LEDs here...

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-ret...or-nav-lights/

I would take a similar approach to the docking lights and whatever stern lights you intend to use however depending on the current rating of these lights you may be forced into installing relays to handle the current draw and avoid running high current through the switches.