Repairing dead Faria gauges driven by Faria Gateway

[TechBeer]

The ballast gauges are a completely different system, nothing to do with the gateway. The ballast gauges are simply analog voltage driven gauges. My guess is the float sender units are bad in the tanks I did a whole write up on this subject. It can be found here https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...-in-2006-sv211

No idea on the blue wire, doesn't look like it has anything to do with gateway/faria bus/dash gauges though. Someone else might know. The fact that it has a screw in it leads me to believe that it goes somewhere though :-)

Unless the ZR motor is somehow different from an Excaliber there is only 1 oil pressure sender wire (plus a ground) going into the gateway. I have a couple of gateways in my lab and can drive them with a simple resistor box. Maybe someone else (Jeff?) knows if the ZR is different.

[kcautodoc]

Well, I have to say that my soldering ability is certainly sub par. But I was able to get all the small gauges working. One issue is that I think I may have gotten the faces mixed up. Any way to confirm before installation.

Secondly, whats the best way to bend the ring back on.

Third, what capacitors and motors ore needed for the larger gauges.

[Rednucleus]

Interesting all three appear identical - maybe it doesn't matter which face goes where??

[TechBeer]

Yes, I ran into the same thing so I created a "cheatsheet". The difference in the circuit for each gauge is contained in the firmware for the microcontroller. If you look closely there is a Microchip PIC microcontroller, the largest chip with 2 colored dots. The color of those dots define what type of gauge it is. Don't mix them up.
Fuel - Orange/Blue
Oil - Yellow/Green
Temp - Blue/Blue
Volts - Orange/Yellow

I have not found a great way to bend the ring back. The way I do it is to put the gauge on some thick foam ~1" thick. Then I use a screw driver to "kink" the rim in several places to hold the bezel on. I place kinks about 1" apart, so ~15-20 of them.

Again, the large gauges are different and more challenging. I will create a video at some point. Getting the bezel off is harder, just because they are larger. Same procedure though. Once you pull the needle, you need to remove 3 screws, 2 of which are under the face applique. One of them is to the right, just lift the edge of the applique. The other is around the 23MPH or 2300 area of the gauge. I run a screw driver up the edge until I can lift the applique. Be careful not to get too aggressive or you can damage the printing on the gauge. Once those 3 screws are removed you can pull the guts out. Be careful because there are 2 wires that go to the buzzer which is mounted to the back of the gauge. I leave those wires in place (unless you are replacing the stepper, which I would avoid).

Once you have the PCB exposed you will see 2 electrolytic caps, one 22uF (like the smaller gauges) and one 100uF. You can use the same series cap. as the 22uF, just go up to 100uF. I recommend X7R, 25V, 1210 size.

Again, I DO NOT recommend replacing the stepper unless you absolutely have to.. It's an arduous process involving de-soldering the LCD panel. Replace the caps and see if the gauge works. But if you feel ambitious and want to risk it, the stepper motor is X25.589 and can be found here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNT9MYY7...d_asin_title_2

Good luck!

[kcautodoc]

I can not find these 100uF, X7R, 25V, 1210 capacitors anywhere. Mouser, ebay, amazon, newark, digikey

Thank you for the color map and the guide.

[TechBeer]

Yes, you are correct. You can't get 25V rated in a 1210 size. What I use is 16V rated caps like these https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...MAT4A/11211375 The highest voltage seen on the board is around 7V so these should be fine.