Wiring question positive from battery to dash

[gdhall]

I'm trying to add a thicker positive and negative from battery to dash to help with the voltage drops. Does anyone know which wire is which at the bilge bypass switch? I'll attach a pic of front of switch and one of back. I'm fairly certain the top is positive to bilge.

2003 SANTE 210 limited

[SilentSeven]

I don't believe upgrading this wire set will help with voltage drops. Most all of the accessory power in this era of boat is switched via the PME box which has a direct feed from the battery.

If you provide more details on where you're getting low voltage, can help more.

PME looks like this:
https://nautiqueparts.com/engine/eng...ker-pme-boxes/

[gdhall]

Doesn't the PME get uts power from here? Otherwise what's the point of the cut off switch? I can def run another positive to that PME. But wouldn't it cancel out the all boat off switch?

So I ran a new negative to the breaker box, 6 gauge from battery and I'm getting 15v at battery, 15 at breaker box but they dang dash says 12.1. Where the heck does perfect pass get its power can I just piggy back a wire straight to it with a fuse? I hadn't connected the positive yet but it's such a small connection at the bilge cut off I'm wondering if I should by pass it totally and go straight to the breaker box? Everything is on perko switches anyway. Any help?? I feel like if I tap into 12 gauge to connect the 6 gauge to the switch it defeats the whole purpose of running a thicker wire or will that one pinch point not matter as much

[gdhall]

I do know on the switch the bottom goes to positive at breaker box and the middle goes back to positive at the battery.

[gdhall]

My boat is a 2003 SANTE Limited. I get low voltage beeps at the dash I think it's the perfect pass if I have more than two pumps running. I can run all day with no problems but if I turn on three ballast pumps it'll eventually drop the voltage enough to cut the power to the perfect pass and it'll cause the boat to stop. I have 15v at each battery, and 15 volts reading at the breaker box. The strange thing is the dash says I have only 12.1 volts even if the breaker box I get 15 on the los and neg terminals. It's very strange

[gdhall]

So I ran an additional 6gauge positive and negative from perko to the box and I'm gunna put a fuse inline but I hadn't yet (I left it unplugged from perko for now) but listen to the difference in the pumps when it's got the additional positive connected.

[SilentSeven]

From this page

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...iring-diagrams

Here's the dash diagram for a limited / team boat

https://www.planetnautique.com/Corre...ETEConsole.pdf

..... I get low voltage beans at the dash...

What a low voltage 'beans'?

What's the problem you're trying to solve?

- Do you want to be able to run the pumps and the PP at the same time?
- If you are not running the pumps, does everything work as expected?
- Preventing the boat from cutting out?

I don't recall anyone reporting a problem with the boat stopping due to dash voltage issues. Doesn't mean it can't happen...just can't recall it and I've been on the board about 10 years.

It's not uncommon to see reports that the voltage gauge reports lower than actually but this issue is more common on 90's era boats. PP's have known problems cutting out or behaving oddly when the voltage is low. On my PP (stargazer with a 4 line display; others may have this mode too) there is diagnostic screen where the PP reports the input voltage. Read the manual to find out how to access. I'd use this diag screen to see the actual voltage being delivered to the PP vs the dash gauge.

[gdhall]

I ran a new extra positive and negative from the battery directly to the PME.and bypassed the boat/bilge auto on/off switch. It's seemed to fix the voltage drop. My main issue was I wanted to have three pumps on at once bc we fill the ballasts to surf and wakeboard and it then empty them all on the way to the dock. Last time we were out it got late and I wanted to empty the ballasts and have the lights on and the voltage dropped to the point in which the perfect pass stopped and the boat slowed immediately. As soon as I turned off one pump it was back to normal. I have a video of the difference in the pumps and the voltage reading with and without the 6awg from battery to dash. The voltage drop is very minimal and that's without the boat running. The down side is the all boat off/on switch doesn't work anymore, but, at least now I can run the pumps without the perfect pass cutting out.

[gdhall]

Thanks for the diagrams

[gdhall]

Do you happen to know what the yellow wire goes to?

[gdhall]

Ok I'm posting this here bc it worked for my boat. If you have a voltage drop that causes low voltage beeps when your boat is cranked (alternator charging) and it is fine unless you have a big voltage draw such as several pumps (in my case 3 Rule 1100s) then this may be your fix. My boat is wired with two batteries on a perko switch and I usually have both on while running so you'd think there's no way you're dropping from 15v in two batteries to 11.6v with only three pumps running. As it turns out the original power wire from battery to the bilge override/boat on/boat off and then continued to the breaker box under the dash is way too small. It was ok in 2003 but only barely. Given the fact that most ppl hand upgraded pumps it becomes an issue bc it can't handle the amps used in bigger pumps all on at once. I ran a new 6AWG positive and negative from battery(negative) and perko switch (pos) directly to the breaker box under dash. Yes this does by pass the switch for auto bilge, but I don't use that function since my boat never stays in the water longer than a few hours when I'm not in it. It'll still work but it doesn't kill all the power to boat. However, this has fixed my issue I no longer have a voltage drop even when the boat is off I can run three pumps and my lights and stereo and stay above 12.1 v. I wouldn't ever do that for long but before I couldn't even do it with the boat running. Now we can fill/empty all three tanks simultaneously and save time on water. I did not remove the old wires I just ran a new one in parallel. I did put an inline fuse in on the positive at the perko end. Might have spent $100 on the whole thing but it's worth it to me to save the time and not chase gremlins. I can still turn the host off at oerko switch when I need to (I do at end of the day and anytime I have a battery charger on it ) maybe this will help
someone. I'll let you know if my host catches on fire in the future lol

[windsurfnut]

You could do it with a Relay so your switch triggers the relay. I've been thinking of doing this.