PCM H6 sputtering under load

[zmnypit]

First time using my G23 this year and it doesn't Rev past 2600rpm under load. Emptied the fuel filter a few times now and don't really see water. Any thing I can check before having to take it out of the water and back home or the dealer?

[nohlan_4]

How many hours and when’s the last time you changed fuel filter and fuel separator?


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[zmnypit]

How many hours and when’s the last time you changed fuel filter and fuel separator?


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Just hit a 100. Was changed less than 3hr ago. I think the HP pump may be dead because the more fuel I tried to burn the batteries were losing voltage like crazy. Almost didn't make it to dock as it hit 6.7v with both batteries on

[nohlan_4]

Hmm or your alternator wasn’t charging. If you let off throttle the voltage would climb back?


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[Speedy]

Seems like you have two problems. Did you change the fuel filter because the motor was sputtering and then you noticed that you had a low-voltage problem?
Sputtering is usually associated with a misfire and a low voltage condition is usually associated with an open fuse, bad alternator, loose connection etc.


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[zmnypit]

Seems like you have two problems. Did you change the fuel filter because the motor was sputtering and then you noticed that you had a low-voltage problem?
Sputtering is usually associated with a misfire and a low voltage condition is usually associated with an open fuse, bad alternator, loose connection etc.


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Fuel filter wasn't changed today just drained a few times. It was replaced last year or 3hr ago. Just random things I've read online about the high pressure pump generally is hard start and wont rev under load over 2500rpm. The voltage I'm not sure about yet. I noticed throughout the day trying to burn gas it kept dropping. With the radio on and ballast pumps draining it went from 11v to 8 in about an HR while driving 9mph. Started heading back to the marina and it dropped to 6.9v and went into a limp mode I assume. Luckily never died and I was able to get it back on the trailer. Now it's in my driveway waiting on me to mess with it. All fuses are good I checked those on the lake. Anything over 2500rpm you can hang it up it just sputters a bit then tries to die.

[Speedy]

Here at the automotive shop, when we have a vehicle with low-voltage and a drained battery, we start by charging the batteries and then checking the alternator to make sure it’s charging. You will be surprised the kind of things a vehicle does when they’re on limping mode with a low-voltage condition. I know that your boat is not a car but I’m just trying to help you the best that I can.
Once the batteries are charged then you can check the alternator with a voltmeter.
With the ignition switch off you can put the negative voltmeter terminal on a good engine ground and the positive voltmeter terminal on the big wire on the back of the alternator. You should see battery voltage. If you don’t see battery voltage then there’s an open on that wire and that’s why the alternator may not be charging. If you do see battery voltage then it’s time to get the boat ready to run with a fakelake or something of the sort and start the engine and recheck with the voltmeter in the same manner as before and you should see an alternator voltage of 13.5v to 14.5v. If you don’t see 13.5 to 14.5 V then you know you have a bad alternator.
My apologies for the lengthy response. I know how frustrating it is when the boat is just not doing what it’s supposed to do

[zmnypit]

Here at the automotive shop, when we have a vehicle with low-voltage and a drained battery, we start by charging the batteries and then checking the alternator to make sure it’s charging. You will be surprised the kind of things a vehicle does when they’re on limping mode with a low-voltage condition. I know that your boat is not a car but I’m just trying to help you the best that I can.
Once the batteries are charged then you can check the alternator with a voltmeter.
With the ignition switch off you can put the negative voltmeter terminal on a good engine ground and the positive voltmeter terminal on the big wire on the back of the alternator. You should see battery voltage. If you don’t see battery voltage then there’s an open on that wire and that’s why the alternator may not be charging. If you do see battery voltage then it’s time to get the boat ready to run with a fakelake or something of the sort and start the engine and recheck with the voltmeter in the same manner as before and you should see an alternator voltage of 13.5v to 14.5v. If you don’t see 13.5 to 14.5 V then you know you have a bad alternator.
My apologies for the lengthy response. I know how frustrating it is when the boat is just not doing what it’s supposed to do

No worries I appreciate the reply. Ive.got them both charging right now. It just start pouring so probably tomorrow before I can start checking. It was in the 11.2v range this no and it's been sitting since April so I didn't think anything of it and figured they'd charge but nope. I'm hoping it's all related

[nohlan_4]

Just by saying your batteries were at 11.2v and you took the boat out on the water I’m saying either your batteries never had a chance to charge off the alternator, or they are both in need of replacing. Hopefully you didn’t burn up a fuel pump or something with that low of voltage going to everything. Always charge your batteries up after storage.


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[zmnypit]

No voltage from the back of the alternator with ignition fuse pulled and spinning the motor over. Also pretty sure one battery is shot. Been on charge for nearly 24hr and moved 5% while the other charged in 2hr. Guess I'll swap the alternator and buy a battery then go from there.

[Speedy]

There should always be battery voltage at the back of the alternator even if the alternator is not working. There’s most likely an open in that wire to the back of the alternator. You can also remove the bad battery and switch the battery switch to the good battery for diagnosis purposes.
You most likely have a bad fuse to the back of the alternator, a break in that wire, an open fusible link, or a bad battery switch. Once you check those items then you can check to see if the alternator it’s working. The alternator will never work if there’s no power to it. By the way DO NOT give the alternator an alternate power. In the automotive world doing that may ruin onboard computers and modules.


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[zmnypit]

There should always be battery voltage at the back of the alternator even if the alternator is not working. There’s most likely an open in that wire to the back of the alternator. You can also remove the bad battery and switch the battery switch to the good battery for diagnosis purposes.
You most likely have a bad fuse to the back of the alternator, a break in that wire, an open fusible link, or a bad battery switch. Once you check those items then you can check to see if the alternator it’s working. The alternator will never work if there’s no power to it. By the way DO NOT give the alternator an alternate power. In the automotive world doing that may ruin onboard computers and modules.


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Took the battery and alternator to the auto parts store. They hooked it up and the machine said it failed so it's toast as I suspected. Battery was also bad so I bought a replacement. I'll have to trace wires bc there is no power on the hot wire on the back of the alternator

[Speedy]

For the alternator to be bad and no power on that wire and the battery also toast, either the battery damaged the alternator by having a bad cell or there is a short to ground on that wire damaging the alternator,a fuse and the battery. You will Most definitely have to find that wire and trace it back to the source because if that wire is shorted to ground and you hook up the new alternator and install the new batteries, you will have the same problem all over again.


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[zmnypit]

For the alternator to be bad and no power on that wire and the battery also toast, either the battery damaged the alternator by having a bad cell or there is a short to ground on that wire damaging the alternator,a fuse and the battery. You will Most definitely have to find that wire and trace it back to the source because if that wire is shorted to ground and you hook up the new alternator and install the new batteries, you will have the same problem all over again.


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Definitely. Right now alternator is off and new battery in place and there no power on the wire that is hot on the alternator. I see a couple 100a fuse able links I gotta figure out how to test

[Speedy]

You check the fusible links the same way you think a fuse. You should have battery power on both sides of the link. If there is no power on either side then you just keep tracing the wire back until you find power. Be sure to have the voltmeter on good battery ground. In other words you place the negative cable from the voltmeter on good battery ground and you use the positive cable from the voltmeter to check for power on the wire your tracing. You can also use a test light. By connecting it to battery ground and when you pierce the fusible link wire, the test light should light up


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