Excalibur 330 Fuel System Troubleshooting & Info

[xlwater01]

Just to note the troubleshooting steps in the OP's post can be applied to the 1996-2002 GT40 engines as well. Those have an almost identical fuel system layout as compared with the Excalibur. The fuel pump relays are located on the rear of the engine on the GT40.

[jstallings]

To close the loop on anyone following my previous post on this thread, my issues which I would have sworn where fuel related ended up being fixed by new rotor cap and plugs. I was only getting about 60% of power when under a load, so assumed it was starved of fuel. Thanks for feed back though

[bionaraq]

Thanks for this post!. Will look for the upgraded connector on the FCC and since my low pressure pump is whining I'll order one. Anyone have the part number for it?

[nparker8697]

Further to the original post. When key is on neither fuel pumps engage. I have checked fuses and relays, all looks good. When I jump the fuel pump relay both fuel pumps will activate. However the engine will not start. It turns over but appears to to be getting a signal from the ecm. Fuel pressure at rail is 80+lbs. check engine light is on when key is on so I’m assuming ECM is working. I’ve checked all grounds for good contact. My next troubleshooting idea is to see if I have spark when turning over as I originally thought it was a fuel pump issue.

any other suggestions what could cause my fuel pumps not to turn on and engines not to fire?

[SashaHens]

Very Helpful, but my 2009 PCM Excalibur still won't start ☹️

I was just done skiing and suddenly engine died and when you crank it, it almost starts but after 1 or 2 seconds it dies again.

When I turn my key I hear fuel pump priming and when I press the valve where you can connect a gauge to measure fuel pressure fuel is spraying out with a lot pressure, so there is fuel. I also checked my spark plugs and they are giving a spark.

I know that after priming the pressure in the fuel system should remain, but this not the case, because when I press the valve after priming almost no fuel comes out. What could be causing this?

I also have my check engine light blinking, there is a mechanic coming with a computer to do a read out but this only by end of the week.

Thanks for the help

[SashaHens]

Further to the original post. When key is on neither fuel pumps engage. I have checked fuses and relays, all looks good. When I jump the fuel pump relay both fuel pumps will activate. However the engine will not start. It turns over but appears to to be getting a signal from the ecm. Fuel pressure at rail is 80+lbs. check engine light is on when key is on so I’m assuming ECM is working. I’ve checked all grounds for good contact. My next troubleshooting idea is to see if I have spark when turning over as I originally thought it was a fuel pump issue.

any other suggestions what could cause my fuel pumps not to turn on and engines not to fire?

Are you sure kill switch isn't broken?

[nparker8697]

I pulled the kill switch off and bench tested it. It works fine. Unless the wire running to engine compartment has been damaged it isn’t that.

[hindsbeans@hotmail.com]

Just thought I’d add something I learned on my Excalibur (in a 2005 SANTE 210):

I had an ongoing and somewhat sporadic issue where it looked like the lower pressure fuel pump had stopped working (because when I opened the FCC it was empty) so I replaced the low pressure pump, I would then see that the FCC was filling, but the engine still wouldn’t fire when cranking. So I replaced the high pressure pump, and still the engine wouldn’t fire.

I’m a long trailer tow from a good boat guy here in Ireland so was on the phone with him a lot and after lots of “did you try this” and “yes, didn’t help” type conversations he suddenly remembered he’d seen the following once before on a PCM engine: he told me to unplug the two cable connections to the MEFI ecu (just beside the 3 relays on top of the engine block) and stick a pin in each female pin connector. That fixed my problem.

Occasionally I get the same issue, and I do the same pin trick and it fixes it. I wonder if those cable connections come loose somehow (they look like the old cable connections to a dot matrix printer??) or maybe the pin scratches off a little corrosion??

Anyway, might be useful to someone else.

[Brucetheshark]

Fuel odor issue: 2006 196LE, second owner from 2020. Odor is present when I uncover the boat, whether it was run recently or not for the entire winter, from 2020 to now. Boat came with ethanol fuel in 2020, which was old. When I drained the fuel, it turned opaque gold about 30 seconds after I poured it into a pan. I only run non-ethanol in my boats, so 6 years of good stuff. No visible liquid fuel anywhere, even with back seat removed. I have a fume tester/sniffer that works well. The sniffer alarms if I open the filler cap and hold it 4” away so it’s fairly sensitive. I tested every inch of the fuel system, running and not, no alarm. The OP issue list makes me wonder about damaged lines or pumps due to the ethanol fuel. Anyone had this issue and found a cause?? TIA, ~Bruce

[JayG80]

See Note #2 in original Post - look at the top of the FCC where the electrical connector wire ports through. In 2002, the wiring was set in an epoxy that cracked and leaked fuel. By 2007, the design was updated. Not sure where your 2006 model falls, but if epoxy, use https://nautiqueparts.com/repair-kit...trol-cell-fcc/

[Skidave]

I am the original poster. My problem was not related to Ethanol and I continue to use 87 octane with Ethanol. As JayG80 said, look at the FCC connector. Also, check the tank vent hose.

[Brucetheshark]

See Note #2 in original Post - look at the top of the FCC where the electrical connector wire ports through. In 2002, the wiring was set in an epoxy that cracked and leaked fuel. By 2007, the design was updated. Not sure where your 2006 model falls, but if epoxy, use https://nautiqueparts.com/repair-kit...trol-cell-fcc/

Thanks for the link Jay, My early 2006 is epoxy. I cycled the ignition a few times to charge the system, then tested. Sniffer doesn't trigger at the wires, but who knows, boat is in garage so not running. I see that the NP fitting is threaded, if I remove my epoxy, will I find threads or will I need to tap the hole? Thanks ~B

[JayG80]

Not much to the install once you get the old wires and epoxy removed. It’s been a few years but I recall it just pushed the threads through the lid and bolted a nut back to the fitting. It will be obvious once you have it in hand

[Brucetheshark]

Not much to the install once you get the old wires and epoxy removed. It’s been a few years but I recall it just pushed the threads through the lid and bolted a nut back to the fitting. It will be obvious once you have it in hand

I recently bought the NP Retrofit part per suggestion and am returning it. I does not fit a 2006 196, nor should anybody try to use it on a 2006. Inside the retrofit part brass is an over-mold (molded over the wires) plastic cylinder that is exactly the same over-mold inside the FCC cap from the factory. Also, the leads on the NP part are too short and the wrong gender. Adding a nut inside the FCC cap won't work either, the cap is 2" thick. NP emailed me to ‘screw the brass into the aluminum FCC cap”…. there’s no threads on the aluminum FCC cap and they suggest you can cut threads into aluminum using brass male threads w/o using a tap. The over-mold inside the FCC cap has a tiny screw on the bottom of the FCC cap to hold it. Just remove the tiny screw, slide the wire and over-mold down, then replace the two 3/8” o-rings on the over-mold, add fuel tolerant lube to the o-rings.

[Brucetheshark]

I fixed the fuel odor: I resealed the three hose fittings on top of the tank; supply, return, vent. Total of eight threaded interfaces. Each has a brass hose barb (remove that first) threaded into a 90 degree aluminum block. The 90 degree block male thread goes into a male/female bushing that is sandwiched from (probably a flange) inside the tank to a 1-5/16" jam nut flush to the outside of the tank. I already had the rear seat back out, so it was a little easier than from the rear storage compartment, took me 2.5 hours working slowly and safely. The seat bottom support/tank cover can stay in place. It could be done from the rear storage compartment instead of the rear seat area. It’s been 1 day now, the fuel odor is gone. I’m sunbathing the rear compartment carpeted panels and the boat cover to get UV working on the residual odor.

Photo: before starting.

Removing the 90 degree aluminum blocks, 3/4" wrench for supply & return, 7/8" for vent. Use a 1-5/16" back-up box wrench on the jam nut that is flush to the tank.

Lastly remove the jam nut with the 1-5/16" box wrench, gently. I kept the 90 degree block loosely attached in case the tank flange wanted to fall inside the tank. None of them wanted to, and seam to be tightly attached to the tank.

Photo: Parts removed and threads cleaned with wire brush (brass hose barb not shown).

Photo: 1-5/16" jam nut and 90 degree block installed with new sealer (hose barb not shown).

Photo: Supply & Return installed with new sealer.

The sender seal was in good condition so I didn't replace it. The screw rubber seals are worn out, plan to replace them soon. The screw go into metal inserts molded or pressed into the tank, and the bottom of the boss is molded over, So fumes or liquid can't leak through the screws, unless it first leaks past the large main seal.