Just to note the troubleshooting steps in the OP's post can be applied to the 1996-2002 GT40 engines as well. Those have an almost identical fuel system layout as compared with the Excalibur. The fuel pump relays are located on the rear of the engine on the GT40.
This is a sticky topic.
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To close the loop on anyone following my previous post on this thread, my issues which I would have sworn where fuel related ended up being fixed by new rotor cap and plugs. I was only getting about 60% of power when under a load, so assumed it was starved of fuel. Thanks for feed back though
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Further to the original post. When key is on neither fuel pumps engage. I have checked fuses and relays, all looks good. When I jump the fuel pump relay both fuel pumps will activate. However the engine will not start. It turns over but appears to to be getting a signal from the ecm. Fuel pressure at rail is 80+lbs. check engine light is on when key is on so I’m assuming ECM is working. I’ve checked all grounds for good contact. My next troubleshooting idea is to see if I have spark when turning over as I originally thought it was a fuel pump issue.
any other suggestions what could cause my fuel pumps not to turn on and engines not to fire?
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Very Helpful, but my 2009 PCM Excalibur still won't start ☹️
I was just done skiing and suddenly engine died and when you crank it, it almost starts but after 1 or 2 seconds it dies again.
When I turn my key I hear fuel pump priming and when I press the valve where you can connect a gauge to measure fuel pressure fuel is spraying out with a lot pressure, so there is fuel. I also checked my spark plugs and they are giving a spark.
I know that after priming the pressure in the fuel system should remain, but this not the case, because when I press the valve after priming almost no fuel comes out. What could be causing this?
I also have my check engine light blinking, there is a mechanic coming with a computer to do a read out but this only by end of the week.
Thanks for the help
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Are you sure kill switch isn't broken?Originally posted by nparker8697 View PostFurther to the original post. When key is on neither fuel pumps engage. I have checked fuses and relays, all looks good. When I jump the fuel pump relay both fuel pumps will activate. However the engine will not start. It turns over but appears to to be getting a signal from the ecm. Fuel pressure at rail is 80+lbs. check engine light is on when key is on so I’m assuming ECM is working. I’ve checked all grounds for good contact. My next troubleshooting idea is to see if I have spark when turning over as I originally thought it was a fuel pump issue.
any other suggestions what could cause my fuel pumps not to turn on and engines not to fire?
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I pulled the kill switch off and bench tested it. It works fine. Unless the wire running to engine compartment has been damaged it isn’t that.
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Just thought I’d add something I learned on my Excalibur (in a 2005 SANTE 210):
I had an ongoing and somewhat sporadic issue where it looked like the lower pressure fuel pump had stopped working (because when I opened the FCC it was empty) so I replaced the low pressure pump, I would then see that the FCC was filling, but the engine still wouldn’t fire when cranking. So I replaced the high pressure pump, and still the engine wouldn’t fire.
I’m a long trailer tow from a good boat guy here in Ireland so was on the phone with him a lot and after lots of “did you try this” and “yes, didn’t help” type conversations he suddenly remembered he’d seen the following once before on a PCM engine: he told me to unplug the two cable connections to the MEFI ecu (just beside the 3 relays on top of the engine block) and stick a pin in each female pin connector. That fixed my problem.
Occasionally I get the same issue, and I do the same pin trick and it fixes it. I wonder if those cable connections come loose somehow (they look like the old cable connections to a dot matrix printer??) or maybe the pin scratches off a little corrosion??
Anyway, might be useful to someone else.
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Fuel odor issue: 2006 196LE, second owner from 2020. Odor is present when I uncover the boat, whether it was run recently or not for the entire winter, from 2020 to now. Boat came with ethanol fuel in 2020, which was old. When I drained the fuel, it turned opaque gold about 30 seconds after I poured it into a pan. I only run non-ethanol in my boats, so 6 years of good stuff. No visible liquid fuel anywhere, even with back seat removed. I have a fume tester/sniffer that works well. The sniffer alarms if I open the filler cap and hold it 4” away so it’s fairly sensitive. I tested every inch of the fuel system, running and not, no alarm. The OP issue list makes me wonder about damaged lines or pumps due to the ethanol fuel. Anyone had this issue and found a cause?? TIA, ~Bruce
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See Note #2 in original Post - look at the top of the FCC where the electrical connector wire ports through. In 2002, the wiring was set in an epoxy that cracked and leaked fuel. By 2007, the design was updated. Not sure where your 2006 model falls, but if epoxy, use https://nautiqueparts.com/repair-kit...trol-cell-fcc/
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Thanks for the link Jay, My early 2006 is epoxy. I cycled the ignition a few times to charge the system, then tested. Sniffer doesn't trigger at the wires, but who knows, boat is in garage so not running. I see that the NP fitting is threaded, if I remove my epoxy, will I find threads or will I need to tap the hole? Thanks ~BOriginally posted by JayG80 View Post
See Note #2 in original Post - look at the top of the FCC where the electrical connector wire ports through. In 2002, the wiring was set in an epoxy that cracked and leaked fuel. By 2007, the design was updated. Not sure where your 2006 model falls, but if epoxy, use https://nautiqueparts.com/repair-kit...trol-cell-fcc/
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Not much to the install once you get the old wires and epoxy removed. It’s been a few years but I recall it just pushed the threads through the lid and bolted a nut back to the fitting. It will be obvious once you have it in hand
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Ah, makes sense now, I didn't consider it having a nut since it's not shown. The NP part descriptions are typically not very descriptive. I'll order one and post results. Thanks again,Originally posted by JayG80 View PostNot much to the install once you get the old wires and epoxy removed. It’s been a few years but I recall it just pushed the threads through the lid and bolted a nut back to the fitting. It will be obvious once you have it in hand
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