Neutral Lockout

[Chaabo]

jmo

I think I have to replace my throttle base assembly as well.
My 2018 just developed the intermittent no crank issue.
Neutral lock out switch isn’t working for a while now, but that never bothered me.
But since this week the boat is almost impossible to start. It’s total random if she wants to crank or not.

Could you please let me know which part # you ordered that worked for you?
Nautique Parts sells #170156 but it sais “fits 2015 and up 210’s, 230’s, G-SERIES, AND GS-SERIES BOATS”
Miami Ski Nautique has #170158 for “ski and sport 200”
They look identical, but with electronics you never know.

Thanks a bunch!

David

[jmo]

Chaabo - I got the one from Nautique parts, it’s the same component for all Nautiques. My original base assembly said “200” on it but my replacement had the GS markings on it.

[Chaabo]

Perfect, thanks a lot!!!

[Waveslayer]

I am resurrecting this thread. I have a 2015 G23 that is experiencing the same issue of the Neutral Lockout isn't functioning. Is there a long term effect, it doesn't bother me, should I just ignore it or replace it with the $600 part?

[aerojust]

Personally, I see no reason to "rev" a modern EFI engine. We use it all the time to start my brother in laws 84 2001. My 2020 230 had the same issue, and then it would start to not sense neutral and then not turn the engine over without a lot of jiggling the throttle back and forth. If your boat starts to do this I would replace the throttle base.This could leave you sitting with no way to start.

[Scooter G]

Ditto, mine doesn't work either. I thought I was holding my mouth wrong at 1st.
For $600 I think I will probably wait until I start seeing starting issues, and have to replace it anyways...

[bturner]

Mine's still not working either. Keep thinking about replacing it but I somehow can't seem to get myself to spring for the cash yet. I have a small info display I fixed first, I think.

[jmo]

Keep in mind it’s not a matter of if you base assembly is going to fail, it’s just a matter of when…

before I had isolated the root cause of my starting issues, I thought it was the battery, replaced it, skied late afternoon in the Spring (aka no one else out on the lake) skied 2 miles down from dock, shut the boat off to board, and it wouldn’t start. I got it going by jiggling it, but that was not a fun 5 minutes…

I don’t know what year the redesigned base assembly started being installed on new boats from the factory. NautiqueJeff, do you know?

[DocPhil]

Reviving this thread a bit and taking a look Scooter G thread about the base assembly. My neutral override button also doesn't work. I haven't had any other issues so far but the boat is pretty new to me. I noticed it when I was running the boat on the trailer in the yard today. I had a water running through it of course as the engine was running but my question is this....

As long as you have a water hookup is it harmful at all to put the boat in gear on the trailer? Any downside to that?

[bturner]

I'll throw in on this one, on this cooler morning here in Canada..... I know from personal experience that with the older boats with a packing nut, this was definitely not a good idea and the the stuffing box would howl to let you know it. Water is used to lubricate the shaft/packing and running it without water to do so will quickly burn up the packing. New dripless boxes have water from the engine's cooling system (at least the last 2 I've owned have) to lubricate the shaft. That said, I don't know that I would do so intentionally and if so would not run it for more than a second or 2 for some kind of testing. In theory, it should be fine but whether that water is enough to safely run for anything more than a quick test, I personally wouldn't want to find out. That and there's the risk reward aspect to doing so, as in, I wouldn't want to risk it as fixing a burned up packing box is no fun task on an Inboard let alone a vDrive.

This is pretty much in line with what AI is saying on the Interweb.....


Inboard Dripless Packing Box

Running an inboard engine in gear out of the water with a dripless packing box requires careful attention to prevent damage. While dripless shaft seals are designed to eliminate water leakage, they still require water flow for cooling and lubrication. For mechanical dripless seals like the P.S.S. system, it is essential to "burp" the seal before operation after a haul-out to expel trapped air, which can cause the seal to overheat and fail. Running the engine in gear out of the water without proper water flow can lead to overheating and potential damage to the seal and shaft.

Some sources indicate that even with modern dripless systems, a small amount of water may be necessary for lubrication and to prevent overheating, especially during extended operation. Running the engine in gear out of the water without water flow can cause the seal to overheat, potentially leading to failure. Therefore, while it is possible to run the engine in gear out of the water with a dripless packing box, it should only be done briefly and with the assurance that the system is properly primed and water flow is established, such as by using a water hose or muffs. Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines for specific procedures and limitations.

[Rednucleus]

Running dry in gear is hard on the shaft cutless bearing as well

[DocPhil]

Makes sense. I ran it again today without putting it in gear and there is a good amount of water coming from the shaft and down it. So I imagine a quick check in and out of gear is fine but prolonged running wouldn't be good. Thanks!