Summerize/De-winterize question

[gobluemike2142]

So as winter finally releases its grip here I have a question on this process. I called the dealer that did the winterize procedure (drain, change oil, remove battery, etc.). Well I called them to get on the schedule to get the boat ready for water. He told me that the way they drain everything all I need to do it drop the boat in the water with the battery charged and I will be good to go.

Now, I'm not trying to start a debate, but is this ok? Should I be worried that the boat didn't have antifreeze in it? I know, stupid questions but I've seen lots of posts on this kind of thing and wanted to know what you guys think. I'm sure every mechanic might do things a little different and this is my first time bringing the old girl out of hibernation.

[Infinity]

Lot of people do not use anti-freeze, long as it was drained properly, you will be ok. Biggest reason for filling the system with AF IMO....is to prevent corrosion from the small amounts of water that are left in system and to keep the impeller in fluid so it does not dry out or take a set.

[gobluemike2142]

Lot of people do not use anti-freeze, long as it was drained properly, you will be ok. Biggest reason for filling the system with AF IMO....is to prevent corrosion from the small amounts of water that are left in system and to keep the impeller in fluid so it does not dry out or take a set.

Thanks Infinity. Was hoping to hear that.

[charlesml3]

Agreed. If you can, charge the battery before you head out just to make sure. Nothing more annoying than getting all the way to the lake and having a dead battery. Check the oil and transmission fluid levels. Once you get it in the water and started up, open up the engine hatch and have a GOOD look around. Look for water coming from somewhere. Before you get too far from the dock, let the engine warm up and watch the temp gauge. Don't head out until you're certain it's cooling properly.

Check EVERYTHING. Make sure all of your lights are working. Horn. Bilge pumps, ballast pumps, gauges, etc. Test the PerfectPass. None of these are really "summer-ization" specific tasks, but you want to know these items are good before you get into prime-time weekends.

-Charles

[gobluemike2142]

Yeah I hear you there. I've got some non-summerize-related issues that I have to deal with but I will for sure charge the battery and have a real good look around before going anywhere.

[charlesml3]

Excellent! I've been a boat owner for over 40 years now and I've heard it all: "Break out Another Thousand." "Hole in the water where you throw money." "Happiest day in a man's life..." All of those can be true, but the don't have to be true. If you're diligent about taking care of a boat, it'll take care of you.

[Infinity]

Personally, I ALWAYS run the boat at home on a hose for 20mins before going to lake. Biggest thing....make sure your water intake is open before starting so you have water flow and watch the temps really careful for first 10mins....doing it at home ensures that you see water coming out of exhaust in the first 30 seconds so you know you have water flow and impeller is pumping. Overheat without water, will fry your hoses quick...
Check all your fluids, etc

[peteSki]

Got to agree with all above. I do my own winterizing and de-winterizing and I also run the boat at home on the hose for a few minutes until it gets warmed up. That way I can see if there are any issues that may have developed over the winter. In my case both my boats have been older, my current one is a 2005 so you can get strange things sometimes. For example I just de-winterized our ski club boat, it's a 2002 Ski Nautique. When I went to start it on the hose I found no power at the dash despite a fully charged battery. Turned out that an electrical connector in the main wiring harness near the back of the engine, that sits under the water intake strainer, had become corroded inside so no power was getting to the ECU. This got worse over winter storage to the point there was no power going through it. Would rather have an issue like that at home than at the ramp as it took me a couple hours to track that down. After I cleaned it up the boat started up as normal and off to the river we went!

[scottb7]

Yep, i start up at home first...much less stressful at the boat launch when you know everything is ready...

[gobluemike2142]

Personally, I ALWAYS run the boat at home on a hose for 20mins before going to lake. Biggest thing....make sure your water intake is open before starting so you have water flow and watch the temps really careful for first 10mins....doing it at home ensures that you see water coming out of exhaust in the first 30 seconds so you know you have water flow and impeller is pumping. Overheat without water, will fry your hoses quick...
Check all your fluids, etc

Water shutoff...any ideas where to find this on a '96 GT-40 V-drive? Not sure I've ever seen a valve but never really looked that hard either.

[charlesml3]

Water shutoff...any ideas where to find this on a '96 GT-40 V-drive? Not sure I've ever seen a valve but never really looked that hard either.

I don't believe it had one in 96. Not really sure since mine was a 99 and it most certainly did NOT have one. Anyway, dig around. If you have a shutoff, it won't be hard to spot.

-Charles

[gobluemike2142]

I don't believe it had one in 96. Not really sure since mine was a 99 and it most certainly did NOT have one. Anyway, dig around. If you have a shutoff, it won't be hard to spot.

-Charles

Roger that, thanks Charles. Kinda what I was thinking.

[Infinity]

If you have one, it should be right after the water intake comes into hull of boat on the hose there....usually just after intake and before the water strainer/hose hookup (if you have one). Personally, I do not close mine. But some dealers do when winterizing cause depending on hose hookup, sometimes you have to shut the valve so water does not drain out of hull instead of going toward impeller. Newer boats dont do that, but some of the older ones are set up that way.

[Blamey]

Did the dealer actually state they didn't use antifreeze?

If they used RV antifreeze you don't need to drain this from the engine.

I'd be most concerned about the impeller in the raw water pump. I don't like those sitting all winter dry. Check with them to see if it was changed out if not then get a new one for the spring.


EDIT: Thought I'd add to this as I decided to look it up. RV anti freeze (Propylene glycol) while not as toxic as the regular green stuff is still not great to dump directly into you lake or storm drains. So if you want to be environmentally conscientious you may want to try collect and dispose of properly. Still my point above still stands that the marina may have used it and are not concerned with the disposal as it is considered biodegradable.

[gobluemike2142]

Did the dealer actually state they didn't use antifreeze?

If they used RV antifreeze you don't need to drain this from the engine.

I'd be most concerned about the impeller in the raw water pump. I don't like those sitting all winter dry. Check with them to see if it was changed out if not then get a new one for the spring.


EDIT: Thought I'd add to this as I decided to look it up. RV anti freeze (Propylene glycol) while not as toxic as the regular green stuff is still not great to dump directly into you lake or storm drains. So if you want to be environmentally conscientious you may want to try collect and dispose of properly. Still my point above still stands that the marina may have used it and are not concerned with the disposal as it is considered biodegradable.

My thought as well, I'll call to verify. Think I'm just gonna head to Walmart (unless someone says otherwise) and pick up a fake a lake and put some buckets under the exhaust and start it up and see what happens. Thanks for all the advice guys.