2013 G23 NSS Problem or LINC Issue

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  • lyzer
    • Jan 2017
    • 33

    • Bay Area

    • 2017 G23

    #1

    2013 G23 NSS Problem or LINC Issue

    TL;DR - starboard NSS tab won't function at all - brand new actuator installed at the dealer, possible linc issue?

    Full story:

    Short backstory - picked up a '13 G at the beginning of this year and put ~100 hours on it with near flawless operation. Decided to send it in for an oil change at the 100 hours and hold off the major service for later this season.

    The biggest issue we've had is the LINC screen won't always boot up when you hit start. It worked perfect for the first few months and then started to not boot intermittently, a problem that seems to be exacerbated when the weather is warmer. Sometimes the screen will boot up first shot (though not too often), sometimes it takes 5-10 tries of start/stop button hits to get the screen to read 'Booting...'. While at the dealer for the oil change I asked them to take a look at the LINC screen and see if they could figure out the problem. I was told they tested all the connections and it has the latest available software and that after talking to the factory rep they wanted us to send them the screen to re-flash or do a diagnostic. Since it's only annoying at the beginning of our day and never gets shut off during I decided to hold that off until the end of the season when I didn't mind not having a boat for weeks at a time.

    Now here's the troubling part. Prior to the dealer troubleshooting everything about the LINC worked flawlessly once it was booted up. When I put the boat back in the water after the dealer did the oil change / troubleshooting the starboard NSS tab deployed and would not retract. Found this out when we tried to get a goofy rider up. I was worried about getting it on the trailer if the tab would hit but luckily it didn't, during the shutdown zero-out sequence the tab still didn't retract but it made noise like it was attempting to. I used my hand and without much pressure was able to push the tab back in. Went back out and the tab deployed and stayed stuck out. I repeated the process of pushing it back during the zero-out sequence on shutdown / boot up and it went back in.

    Being somewhat mechanically inclined I pulled the cover off the tab and ended up manually powering the actuator with a car battery to get it to deploy, it made noise but didn't sound good and no movement from the tab. Took it to the dealer and showed them the video of this test, they put a new actuator in and I was told they tested it from the LINC screen but my understanding is the demo mode wasn't available until 2016 and that there's no way to manually activate them from a 2013 LINC? Maybe they didn't actually test the functionality?

    Aside from making my next service appointment (as nice as the guys are at the dealer I don't really want to be best friends because I'm there every week) does anyone have any ideas on this?

    My next step is just going to be pulling the dash and checking all the connections for anything that's loose / poor ground / etc thinking that it might be a bad connection from the LINC / PDM. The actuator still makes noise during the zero-out sequence on boot up / power down so it's still getting some juice from the system. I'll also try my test of plugging the actuator direct to a battery (which was successful on the port side previously). Won't have time until next weekend as I'm heading to Tahoe so any ideas in the meantime will be much appreciated and tested on sat/sun

    I've done a search across these forums and think I've read every LINC / NSS issue related thread (and plenty unrelated) to try and see any similar issues and their solution but they usually seem to be solved by LINC software updates of which mine is current though I'm sure that's the next step at the dealer is to re-flash. I'll see if they'll send me the file to re-flash with instructions - I'd rather not trailer up and back for the 3 hour round trip 3rd time in 2 weeks.

    Sorry for such a long post - trying to provide as much detail as possible, thanks for reading!
  • Infinity
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Sep 2017
    • 730

    • Lake Norman - Denver, NC

    • 2014 SV244 w/ ZR409

    #2
    Cant answer on the LINC issue (sure others will)....but you wanna change your oil every 50hrs, not 100. Its the one thing that will give you engine longevity and is easy and simple to do...material cost is like $30. You could get an oil extractor and do it yourself so you don't have the dealer costs and downtime of taking it there and waiting in line. Keep a log and receipts for when you sell, or if you have a warranty issue down road.

    FYI....my boat also has an "ignition" button that boots everything up and then you press the "Start" button to fire engine. About 6 weeks ago, I went to press the ignition button after floating for a few mins and nothing happened (it boots up computer and everything else except ACC stuff like radio, blower, etc...so if it does not work I cannot start boat). Luckily about 15mins later it worked again. After research I found out that it has happened to others as well and usually is after running for a while, it "cools" down and then works later...very strange. Anyway, I came to find out that button is going bad tho it wont always test bad since it does not always do it, something inside the switch not working right (cause I could bypass it and it would work). They still send me a new button under warranty. Say that just to say that possible that button may be wearing out, or the connections in the back may not be tight tho from what you stated, that is not as likely.

    Comment

    • lyzer
      • Jan 2017
      • 33

      • Bay Area

      • 2017 G23

      #3
      Thank you for the oil change reminder I know I'm doubling the recommended interval with this one and will keep that to a minimum in the future.

      Interesting thought about the switch possibly being an issue. I will take a look at that when I pull the dash off and see if it's something easily testable, the back side of the Nautique keypad on the parts site has 12 pins and 11 buttons as one unit so I'm not sure without a wiring diagram.

      Luckily I can run the boat (sans gauges of course) without the LINC screen, which I've done in a pinch when it wouldn't boot up one time. For this reason I make sure the ballast is empty before the screen goes off in case someday it won't come back and I need to get it on the trailer.

      Comment

      • scottb7
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Aug 2011
        • 2198

        • Carson City, Nevada

        • 2014 G21 (Current) 2008 SANTE 210

        #4
        Sorry for dumb question. But after you turn on the battery switch are you waiting before you type in code and press start. If I don't wait like the picture suggests then my won't boot. If mine does not boot, then i turn off the battery switch wait a few seconds, and then turn back on the battery switch, then wait 30 seconds...Never failed yet.

        p.s. on the actuators why don't you compare what each side sounds like and make sure ok, or switch them and see if problem moves to other side.

        Click image for larger version

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        Comment

        • lyzer
          • Jan 2017
          • 33

          • Bay Area

          • 2017 G23

          #5
          Good idea, I will definitely try the waiting 30 seconds to see if that helps the booting up!

          Haven't tried swapping the lines to to the actuators to compare, but I will do that this weekend after checking all the connections and testing with a meter to verify I'm getting 12v on all the actuators.

          Comment

          • lyzer
            • Jan 2017
            • 33

            • Bay Area

            • 2017 G23

            #6
            Just thought I'd post an update. Was able to test the new actuator by connecting directly to the battery and making the plate extend, then reconnected and shut off the boat so it would run the zero-out sequence and it retracted the plate back in correctly. The new actuator has a different sound than the old one but I am assuming that's just because it's new / maybe lenco uses different motors now - it's been a few years since the original was built.

            During the zero-out sequence I tested the connection and had a full 12v running through the line so it appears that mechanically and electrically everything is working as expected. At this point I think it is the LINC screen just going haywire.

            Unfortunately the waiting 30 seconds from perko on didn't improve the LINC booting situation. In addition I could not get into the software update loader on the LINC screen through the instructions provided by the dealer so I could not try updating the software. Probably tried to get in there about 100 times and the screen was just completely non-responsive when holding the home button during start.

            At this point I dropped the screen off to be overnighted back to the Nautique factory and hoping they can reload the software / determine what is wrong with the screen. All the accessories work when the boat is started (stereo, lights, bilge, etc) so fingers crossed they can just reload. Worst case probably need a new screen, but if that happens hopefully they have some in stock so I can get back on the water asap .

            Comment

            • lyzer
              • Jan 2017
              • 33

              • Bay Area

              • 2017 G23

              #7
              SOLVED! I'm still surprised the LINC screen software could get that jacked up when it's a closed system, but the reflash by the factory solved the problem! Although now I experienced one ballast tank overflowing for a while on fill so I'm hoping those auto reset and sort themselves out... just stoked to get everything back and operational at this point though! Here's to another 30+ hours before she goes into hibernation

              Comment

              • Infinity
                Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                • Sep 2017
                • 730

                • Lake Norman - Denver, NC

                • 2014 SV244 w/ ZR409

                #8
                The re-flash may have reset a different time for that ballast tank that is overflowing now. Pretty easy to reset in the settings menu if that did happen

                Comment

                • lyzer
                  • Jan 2017
                  • 33

                  • Bay Area

                  • 2017 G23

                  #9
                  Yep! Just had to reset the master timer by sitting at idle (engine running) for a 100% fill cycle and they're good to go

                  Comment

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