750 or 400 sacs plumed into 210?

[rlwagens]

I'll be at the cottage in the next couple of days and I can grab some pictures, but you are essentially adding a tee directly before the overflow inlet to your bow bag. Then another tee as close as possible to where your overflow vent line from the top of the bag exits the boat. Between those two tees you you put the check valve. In my 210 the overflow line comes out from the belly tank under the helm really close to where the vent opening out the side of the boat is, so my check valve line is only a foot or so of hose to connect them. Then I just made sure my overflow hose from the belly tank and vent hose from the bow sac were short enough that they didn't have any dependent loops in them to trap water and prevent the bag from venting when filling. And like I said, the only issue was some water left in the bag when emptying, but I think its just because it was hard for water to flow back into the belly thank through the elbow on the bag, hopefully the straight adapted will resolve that issue. The major key is if you have any extra hose trim it instead of letting it coil or loop, the straighter all your hose is the less chance it would air lock and keep the belly bag from venting properly, the check valve takes over once the empty bag cuts off your vent to the belly tank.

This admittedly MS Paint level diagram prolly is more clear than any pictures would be:

[HutchCanada]

'10 SAN 210. You need a lot of bow weight with 750s in the stern. I have 750s on top of stock in the rear lockers, 370 tube sac in centre locker, 700 bow sac under seats. 370 tube on top of port seats, 150 brick on bow floor. Suck gate. I think we have maxed out the potential of the surf wake without removing the rear hard tanks and going with 1100s. Ive noticed that with more weight/people the 210 surf wake doesn't always get better

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk