Vinegar Flush how to

[LiquidObsession]

I think it might be time to pull your circulation pump and inspect it. I had to change mine in my old MC Ford 351. Mine was starting to leak and getting squeaky but still circulating water. On a vdrive a little harder to see and inspect without removing. I would think there is a metal kind of impeller in the middle of it that had a bearing or two in its shaft. It's possible that bearing is going bad or seizing and then the serpentine belt might be slipping over the pulley. Has your belt been shredded or torn up in these overheating episodes? Also, if you can run the engine before pulling this pump try to examine for it leaking water first


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Ill check that out.
Side note: The belt happened before everything else. The belt didn't completely fail either. Heard a tick tick tick... opened the hatch to discover a thin side strip of the belt was hitting the hatch door every time it made a revolution. Didn't chance anything. Brought her in and changed the belt immediately before any failures could occur.

[DW SD]

Some good thoughts and advice I haven't checked. Thank you. I had a horrible time with that whole thermostat thing. Different "theories" but no real "here's the link" help. Where can I purchase the factory PCM thermostat that's absolutely the real deal guaranteed?

Also, where can I purchase new exhaust hoses? Again, the good stuff.

I buy from www.nautiqueparts.com which is white lake marine, I believe. they offer a 10% discount if you use the PND code (planet nautique discount). I believe they sell OEM parts. You can drill an 1/8" air release hole in a brand new thermostat. Or remove your old one and do it and try again. Again, drill in the outer ring (static part). I've seen new thermostats with a hole from their MFG or even a hole with a tiny brass check valve. As long as you don't bend the thermostat, impeding its operation, it won't hurt anything.

BTW - It seems to me that if the circulation pump were the failure that the overheating would be predictable / consistent. Given what I read, and assuming I interpreted properly, I'd look for something sporadically failing. I'm not saying don't try that too or remove the belt and look for something which doesn't turn easily.

I don't think you'd get burning rubber smell from a partially torn belt. You would get that smell from a belt which was slipping and then stopped turning your accessory drives (both pumps included). Things would overheat in a hurry then!

Doug

[LiquidObsession]

I buy from www.nautiqueparts.com which is white lake marine, I believe. they offer a 10% discount if you use the PND code (planet nautique discount). I believe they sell OEM parts. You can drill an 1/8" air release hole in a brand new thermostat. Or remove your old one and do it and try again. Again, drill in the outer ring (static part). I've seen new thermostats with a hole from their MFG or even a hole with a tiny brass check valve. As long as you don't bend the thermostat, impeding its operation, it won't hurt anything.

BTW - It seems to me that if the circulation pump were the failure that the overheating would be predictable / consistent. Given what I read, and assuming I interpreted properly, I'd look for something sporadically failing. I'm not saying don't try that too or remove the belt and look for something which doesn't turn easily.

I don't think you'd get burning rubber smell from a partially torn belt. You would get that smell from a belt which was slipping and then stopped turning your accessory drives (both pumps included). Things would overheat in a hurry then!

Doug

I suspect the rubber smell was coming from my exhaust hose.

[DW SD]

Did you get this sorted?

I could see how your exhaust hose could be the source of the smell. That would indicate to me no cooling water flow out of the exhaust.

Did the exhaust rubber burn? Were there signs of it looking burnt externally?

I just don't see how the cooling water exit path could be sporadic. Pretty sure if the thermostat sticks shut, cooling water would still exit. So perhaps my earlier ideas aren't right.

[LiquidObsession]

Did you get this sorted?

I could see how your exhaust hose could be the source of the smell. That would indicate to me no cooling water flow out of the exhaust.

Did the exhaust rubber burn? Were there signs of it looking burnt externally?

I just don't see how the cooling water exit path could be sporadic. Pretty sure if the thermostat sticks shut, cooling water would still exit. So perhaps my earlier ideas aren't right.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to on account of the weather.
Doesnt look burnt externally... just a split.
Rest assured that I'll be posting a lot once the weather clears and I can start.

[WakeWise]

Update?

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[LiquidObsession]

I have an experienced inboard mechanic coming to my place tomorrow. We're going to work our way through the whole cooling system. I'll post a write up.

[SusieStrunk]

There is a screen on the intake side of the transmission cooler. Did you check this for debris? I've had issues where it would allow enough water to pass at idle speeds but not enough at higher throttle. The trans cooler was full of junk.


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Hey, I found a small hose screen in my bilge and it's driving me crazy wondering where it escaped. Could it be from the tranny cooler intake hose?


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[Skidave]

Bilge pump possibly. They have a small screen to prevent stuff from getting in to jam the impeller.

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[LiquidObsession]

Quick update: my mechanic and I decided to start at the exhaust and work forward. Pulled every part and inspected parts & hoses. Not ONE indication of any blockage anywhere. Baffling! One of the riser bolts snapped flush with the manifold due to high corrosion so we're waiting until Monday to fix that little hiccup. Replaced circ pump just in case since we were already doing a deep dive into the cooling system. We'll finish our hunt when the manifold issue is fixed. More to come.

[charlesml3]

Quick update: my mechanic and I decided to start at the exhaust and work forward. Pulled every part and inspected parts & hoses. Not ONE indication of any blockage anywhere. Baffling! One of the riser bolts snapped flush with the manifold due to high corrosion so we're waiting until Monday to fix that little hiccup. Replaced circ pump just in case since we were already doing a deep dive into the cooling system. We'll finish our hunt when the manifold issue is fixed. More to come.

Wow. "Baffling" is right. I'm insanely curious to find out what is causing this.

-Charles

[j-rob]

Quick update: my mechanic and I decided to start at the exhaust and work forward. Pulled every part and inspected parts & hoses. Not ONE indication of any blockage anywhere. Baffling! One of the riser bolts snapped flush with the manifold due to high corrosion so we're waiting until Monday to fix that little hiccup. Replaced circ pump just in case since we were already doing a deep dive into the cooling system. We'll finish our hunt when the manifold issue is fixed. More to come.

Your cooling system may be a bit different than mine, but the output of my raw water pump goes through my Vdrive housing, then back to the inlet of my fill riser before entering the circ pump. I found a good bit of impeller in the Vdrive cooling passage, ironically it wasn't the one I shredded though. Slightly different sized impeller and had been in there for ages. Anyway, check your Vdrive housing if it's plumbed the same. I also ended up finding a lot of impeller in my block, again, it wasn't mine, but there were some large chunks that made their way into the water jacket. You've been through the raw water pump thoroughly correct? And are you using the Oring for the cover or the gasket?

I feel for you man, my thread is right above your at the moment. Hope you get it sorted soon!

[LiquidObsession]

Your cooling system may be a bit different than mine, but the output of my raw water pump goes through my Vdrive housing, then back to the inlet of my fill riser before entering the circ pump. I found a good bit of impeller in the Vdrive cooling passage, ironically it wasn't the one I shredded though. Slightly different sized impeller and had been in there for ages. Anyway, check your Vdrive housing if it's plumbed the same. I also ended up finding a lot of impeller in my block, again, it wasn't mine, but there were some large chunks that made their way into the water jacket. You've been through the raw water pump thoroughly correct? And are you using the Oring for the cover or the gasket?

I feel for you man, my thread is right above your at the moment. Hope you get it sorted soon!

Yes, going through everything thoroughly.
Not the same plumbing... hull inlet-strainer-trans cooler-then on to engine and out riser to muffler.
When he returns we'll check the block and trans cooler again just in case we missed something.

[LiquidObsession]

UPDATE and TEMP GUAGE HELP

STILL NO SMOKING GUN!

On the up side my cooling system looks great... down side, we couldn't find any obstructions or bad parts at all that would cause overheating. Since we were already doing a deep dive I replaced the circ pump, thermostat and impeller just in case.

WHAT WE DID FIND:
While testing the temperature sending unit he told me it was working normal but that my gauge was giving bad readings.

I've attached his test notes. Ohms and such are out of my wheelhouse so any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated as always.

AND... where the heck do I get a replacement gauge for a 2004 220v?


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[j-rob]

How were the numbers in the "actual" column retrieved?
Is he correlating 128.6Ω to 154°, or merely stating that it stabilized along with temp, suggesting the sensor is good, and gauge is faulty?
What does the gauge look like on your MB?
On my 210 the digital temp readout is in the bottom of my Tach.