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[LiquidObsession]

How were the numbers in the "actual" column retrieved?
Is he correlating 128.6Ω to 154°, or merely stating that it stabilized along with temp, suggesting the sensor is good, and gauge is faulty?
What does the gauge look like on your MB?
On my 210 the digital temp readout is in the bottom of my Tach.

Stating normalized.
heres my gauge.

[j-rob]

Stating normalized.
heres my gauge.

Is it a faria?
http://www.boatersland.com/far-33851...zcbxoCzefw_wcB



Again though, how did he obtain the "actual" temp? I'm curious, because I'm having a very similar issue and one of my next steps is to swap the temp sensors.I was planning on using a laser thermometer to verify actual temps.
Also which sensor is he measuring? On mine there is an engine temp sensor in the intake manifold, and there is a water temp sensor in the lower fill riser (thermostat housing basically).

[homer12]

I'd echo j-robs question. Where did the actual reading come from? And how did he verify sending unit was ok?


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[LiquidObsession]

Is it a faria?
http://www.boatersland.com/far-33851...zcbxoCzefw_wcB



Again though, how did he obtain the "actual" temp? I'm curious, because I'm having a very similar issue and one of my next steps is to swap the temp sensors.I was planning on using a laser thermometer to verify actual temps.
Also which sensor is he measuring? On mine there is an engine temp sensor in the intake manifold, and there is a water temp sensor in the lower fill riser (thermostat housing basically).

Ohm meter connected to the temp sending unit... thermostat housing.

[DW SD]

Have you used an infrared temp gun to verify the temp sender calibration? $20 at Harbor Freight or Amazon is well spent for the IR gun. I use mine all the time to verify things like this. You can use it to spot a non running cylinder, too. For AC work, etc. etc.

[j-rob]

Ohm meter connected to the temp sending unit... thermostat housing.

HOW WERE THE "ACTUAL TEMPS" OBTAINED??

please and thank you.

[LiquidObsession]

Have you used an infrared temp gun to verify the temp sender calibration? $20 at Harbor Freight or Amazon is well spent for the IR gun. I use mine all the time to verify things like this. You can use it to spot a non running cylinder, too. For AC work, etc. etc.

I've got one and yes I'll be using it this Saturday on the lake to verify his readings.

[LiquidObsession]

HOW WERE THE "ACTUAL TEMPS" OBTAINED??

please and thank you.

Yelling in frustration?
I was at work when he tested it.
What he did is out of my wheelhouse. Mechanic: "I hooked an ohm meter to your sending unit to see if it was working correctly. Looks like it's working fine but your gauge is showing higher temps than it should be. I think you've got a faulty gauge there. I've included the results from the sending unit vs gauge below. Talk to you soon"

[LiquidObsession]

HOW WERE THE "ACTUAL TEMPS" OBTAINED??

please and thank you.

Btw... there is no such thing as actual temps here. It's the gauges job to translate ohms from sensor/sender into ACTUAL TEMP.

[DW SD]

Given all of the background, overheating symptoms, burning rubber smells, poor initial diagnoses, and labor and parts changing thus far, it seems to me like a good idea to trust but verify systemically. I still might suggest comparing temp measurements with an IR gun against the thermostat housing. I've found they should correlate.

Or maybe your problem is solved with the faulty gauge? One can hope!

Doug

[LiquidObsession]

Given all of the background, overheating symptoms, burning rubber smells, poor initial diagnoses, and labor and parts changing thus far, it seems to me like a good idea to trust but verify systemically. I still might suggest comparing temp measurements with an IR gun against the thermostat housing. I've found they should correlate.

Or maybe your problem is solved with the faulty gauge? One can hope!

Doug

That's the plan... getting her on the water and testing under load this Saturday. Using my ir gun for temp watch since I obviously cannot trust the gauge.
Unfortunately the gauge has little to do with the initial problem. It's reading hotter than actual temp of the engine... so when it's showing me the engine is at a dangerous heat level the reality is that the engine is actually running at normal temp meaning it never would have overheated. But it has overheated a couple of times.

I suspect that at some point after the last overheat something happened to the gauge. Here's the real frustrating part: when I last ran her, tested under load at the end of last season, the gauge readings were telling me she was about to overheat so I would shut her down. I winterized her under the impression that the problem still existed. I guess the reality may have been that she wasn't getting too hot. Meaning I may have fixed the issue at the end of last season myself without even knowing it! Wish I had thought to use the IR gun on that test. OOOR... did our overly wet, stormy winter screw up the gauge during the storage period and the problem does still exist?!?! These are the questions that keep me up at night.

Regardless... I'll test her this Saturday and HOPEFULLY find she's running smooth and cool. THEN... I'll put this perplexing problem into the file cabinet and actually enjoy the summer with my family and friends.

I'll let you all know how the testing turns out. I do know this for sure... my next update will either be a joyous celebration to the summer gods or a post from my wife to you all pleading for help on how to get a pathetic, tearful cry baby guy who wants his mommy to stop sitting in his boat crying while drinking heavily.

[DW SD]

Note, electronic gauges are calibrated with internal potentiometer. A second could be added to calibrate without buying a new one. Potentiometer = variable resistor.
The potentiometer is usually found behind the housing on the board. But you could wire in your own.
Some will calibrate temp sensors by rigging a 12V system and dropping the sender in boiling water, given its known temp.
Cheaper process than sending out. Then again Palo Alto Speedometer probably will only charge $60 or $80 to fix.

Doug

[LiquidObsession]

Note, electronic gauges are calibrated with internal potentiometer. A second could be added to calibrate without buying a new one. Potentiometer = variable resistor.
The potentiometer is usually found behind the housing on the board. But you could wire in your own.
Some will calibrate temp sensors by rigging a 12V system and dropping the sender in boiling water, given its known temp.
Cheaper process than sending out. Then again Palo Alto Speedometer probably will only charge $60 or $80 to fix.

Doug

Hadn't thought about sending it in to have it fixed... is having it re-calibrated reliable? In my quick search for new I'd be paying $100 for a new one that wouldn't match the other gauges exactly.

[DW SD]

Hadn't thought about sending it in to have it fixed... is having it re-calibrated reliable? In my quick search for new I'd be paying $100 for a new one that wouldn't match the other gauges exactly.

I'd say it'd at least as reliable as from the factory. They can even replace the specific gauge hardware (board) if Faria used cr@p stuff.
Those speedo shops can create new gauges from scratch of the highest caliber.

I bought a replacement volt gauge for my Faria unit only because it was $18 shipped from ebay. It wasn't a big criteria that it didn't exactly match. Usually repair / board replacement is $60 - ish to $100.

Doug

[LiquidObsession]

Ok guys test results are in... drum roll...

Purring like a kitten on catnip!

She ran better and cooler than she has since I bought her. Took her out to Bullards Bar yesterday and checked temps using my IR gun. Temp was extremely stable at 150deg all day.

Did I fix the problem end of last season not knowing it because my faulty gauge told me otherwise? Or did replacing the circ pump, manifold and exhaust hose clear things up?

Unfortunately looks like I'm never going to know for sure what exactly caused her to overheat.

Now to have my gauge repaired.


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