Blown fuse - Please help!

[dcoblack]

This is my first post, so please forgive me if I posted a redundant topic. The boat in question is an '03 Air Nautique 206 SE

First let me note that this is the first time of the year using the boat and never had this problem before. I previously had a problem with electrolysis causing the rudder and strut to oxidize. I brought the boat to a marina, and they grounded these parts stating that that would stop future oxidation. This was done at the end of the season, and I have not used it since.

Before heading out for the first time of the season I installed a new battery because the old one was bad. After hooking it up I still had no power. I noticed an inline 30 amp fuse directly after the battery that was blown. I replaced the fuse three times, hoping that it was a bad fuse (highly unlikely but I'm being optimistic at that point). Each time it's replaced, it pops immediately after installing it. After opening the battery compartment to install the battery I did notice the waterproof cover was not on the 30 amp fuse and it was sitting at the bottom of the hull. Could water have caused the fuse holder to go bad, or could water inside the fuse holder cause an arc popping the fuse this way?

Before tearing everything apart searching for the problem, I would love some input to save me some time.

[pSchwade]

no, something down stream of the fuse is shorted, grab a volt meter and start checking continuity. Depending on your electrical ability you can either grab the wiring diagram (http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...ingDiagram.pdf) and start testing or take it to a shop. its probably something simple, so if you can point to were the fuse it I'm sure someone here can help you out.

[peteSki]

I agree with pSchwade there is most likely a short somewhere that you'll need to find and fix to stop that fuse from blowing.

If the fuse holder is corroded I was also recommend replacing it. On my previous boat, 97 Ski Nautique, the fuse holder had become corroded over the years and although it didn't cause the fuse to blow, after running the boat for a while it would heat up from the increased resistance and eventually expand to break the electrical connection. Since it provided power to the ECM the boat was then dead in the water. After a minute or so it would cool down enough to restore the connection and the boat would run as normal. Took me a while to find this and was immensely frustrating! I ended up replacing the fuse and holder and ran a new power wire back to the ECM as mine was looking poor. After that I had no further issues.

Pete

[jkallen21]

While troubleshooting, to keep from blowing fuses like crazy (they add up), you can insert a test light ($5 from auto store) instead. Hook the aligator clip to ground and insert the probe into the hot side of the fuse (you'll know which side is hot because the light will come on). Then start disconnecting everything that is documented to be on that wire. In a normal working boat, the light will turn off when you disconnect the last device. Yours might not - which will make it tricky to find. You could try literally rocking the boat while it is in the water and if the light goes off at all - then start to narrow it down by shaking wires, etc.
Some people use a 12V Buzzer (also $5 at amazon or radio shack) as opposed to a light because you can't always see the light when you're crawling around. The buzzer can be slightly annoying though

[dcoblack]

Thanks for all your your help guys! I ended up tearing her apart anyways, it turned out to be more than one problem,. Turned out to be a real process. The Alternator was bad, there was a loose ground, and an ignition wire was pinched behind the dash. I went ahead and replaced the fuse holder as recommended, and the starter while I was tearing it apart anyways. Got her out on the water today and it worked fine for about an hour. Then the fuel pump went.........The joys of owning an older boat I guess.