Originally posted by lvethelake
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I tried started fluid and no luck, the engine simply turned over. I am a new owner to the boat(September 2014), I would guess the pumps are original(329 hrs).Originally posted by scottb7 View Postdid you ever get around to trying the shoot carb spray and see if it runs for a bit? also, did you say how many hours on the original pumps?
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yeah but then you are back where you started, meaning that you did not spray enough or you are not getting spark. which if that is the case you should check for spark, and stop tinkering with the fuel side...so now i am confused....
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Bit confused now as well, if spark is the issue you need to go back to square one, check the lanyard, then cap, rotor, etc. etc.
If you have not, give Mike a call, drag your boat to his house and he will get you running. Personally don't agree with the throw new parts at problems or replace pumps that have not failed, figure out what is wrong, fix it and go skiing!
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The few times it has started the fuel pump has cycled, I think the ECM takes the ignition coil out of the equation when the fuel pump doesn't cycle. Therefore, I could spray a can of starter fluid in the throttle body but the ECM won't allow spark because it realizes the fuel pump isn't cycling. Going to try a new relay, then I may be calling Mike. I appreciate all the help guys!Originally posted by Quinner View PostBit confused now as well, if spark is the issue you need to go back to square one, check the lanyard, then cap, rotor, etc. etc.
If you have not, give Mike a call, drag your boat to his house and he will get you running. Personally don't agree with the throw new parts at problems or replace pumps that have not failed, figure out what is wrong, fix it and go skiing!
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What tells the ecm the fuel pump is pumping? Is there a fuel pressure sender on the fuel rail to communicate with the ecm? I'm curious because I haven't seen a fuel pressure sendor in any of the manuals. I don't believe the ecm knows if the fuel pump is working. Can someone explain?
Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using TapatalkLast edited by jhersey29; 11-07-2014, 10:09 AM.
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Another thought, if you removed the FCC and drained it the ignition will need to be cycled quite a few times to re-prime everything. When changing my FCC filter once could not get the boat to fire despite numerous ignition cycles, ended up priming the intake a bit to get it to fire.
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yeah, i noticed that too, it takes more time than you think to fill the canister. Which for me usually does not happen til the spring because I don't restart the engine after pulling the boat out of the water. So it does always give one - or at least me - a bit of anxiety as I wait wondering what else might have broke during the last 6 months.
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Update, I tested each relay with a Dewalt 12V battery and alligator clips. The relay closed between 85 and 86 with a subsequent resistance drop between 30 and 87 from infinity to 0. All three relays were good, I then directly connected 12 volts via alligator clips to the quick disconnect on the low pressure pump and it activated and started pumping. I towed the boat to the trailer today and will probably call Mike tomorrow.
I have a suspicion its a quirky electrical problem. The "ignition fault" code seems like it could have been caused by the previous owner changing the cap and rotor. Anyway, I appreciate all the help!
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