2 battery setup for '03 210 team

[Kip]

1.) How do the "A-B" switches work? The manual is a little vague. It says to switch the two daily. I'm assuming when the switch is "off", that battery does not get charged by the alternator right?

2.) Which battery is the accessory battery & which one is the starting battery? The rear battery has the amp leads on the '03, and I'm adding 2 more amps and 3 lights & wondering which battery I should connect them to. (I'm running 4 gauge to a distribution block for all 3 amps).

I'd like to use one battery as a backup starter (I guess--sounds logical), but I'm new to multiple batteries and was wondering what the "right" way is to set them up.

[NautiqueJeff]

RE: 2 battery setup for

Get a Hellroaring battery isolator/combiner. Forget about the A/B switch. This is an automatic battery isolator and combiner, which will automatically charge both batteries whenever the engine is running, then automatically seperate them when the engine is off. I have one and absolutely love it.

CLICK HERE - BIC 75300

[jwhposon]

RE: 2 battery setup for

I agree with Nautique Jeff - I know from his history he has some very amazing setups with his boat. However, I was moving towards that Hellroaring item and it was just too expensive. THe salesperson quoted 160+ dollars, which if I wanted to do it the RIGHT way would be appropriate. However, I already had the perko 1,2 Both selector switch. I will tell you that it is a pain in the @@@, but then again I already had it. I have two batteries -- soon to be three. However, I use one battery as the starter and then one for the backup. First thing, make sure you have identical batteries - someone else on here knows why, I just did what they said on here . My battery 1 is the primary starter, my second battery has my stereo hooked up. I will start the boat using battery one and then select "both" which will charge both batteries but they will also equalize if one is lower than the other. If I am going to just sit and listen to music -- well then switch to batt2. If you have a nautique with that bilge swtich connector - it is hard wired to battery1.

I know this is confusing and I have a diagram if you still need information.

[03Air210]

RE: 2 battery setup for

I have always left my switch on both all the time. Is this hurting anything?

[bowvan]

RE: 2 battery setup for

It depends on how the switch is wired. From the factory, you should leave the switch on 1 or 2. Only use "both" if you can't start the boat with 1 or 2. The switch is intended to protect you from accidently draining your batteries and leaving you stranded. In the "both" position it's posible to accidently drain both batteries. Using 1 or 2 allows you to drain one battery and keep the other as a back-up. Also, your alternator does not charge/maintain two batteries (the both position) as efficiently as one (position 1 or 2). If you do drain a battery: start the boat with the good battery, then switch to the bad one, so it can charge. I try and rotate the use of batt1 and batt2 on a regular basis (day by day), so that both batteries stay maintained.

I have found that when charging your batteries, it's best to leave the switch on "both". Connect the charger to one battery and your batteries should equalize and then charge up together, slowly. If you only want to charge one battery, connect the charger to that battery and switch to "off".

[Mikeski]

RE: 2 battery setup for

I like the combiner, Yandina C100 or C150 depending on your alternator. My little C100 works like a champ recharging my golf cart batts and running my 2500 watt stereo.

[redelf75]

I have the Hellroaring isolator too and use it in conjunction with my existing 4-way switch as per this diagram.

[Flux]

I really don't mind the 2 switch setup on my 02. I am assuming it's the same for the 03.

If you have both on, you have them combined. This is not all that bad unless one of the batteries is fried, it will take the other one down with it. I check them once in a while for charge with a voltmeter, they have been fine thus far. I don't have a big stereo so it's not all that critical to me. I generally use only one battery and don't really pay attention to which one I am using. No big deal as long as I am checking charge now and again.

I don't have a big stereo and usually don't blast it. So if we are hanging we are just on one battery. If we drain it, we have the other to get us going. The combiners are nice. I may get one eventually, but my setup works fine right now and I don't have any plans to amp out the boat.

[Mikeski]

Isolators require a voltage drop to operate, typically 0.7 volts, that's why I prefer a combiner. The hellroaring or other relays combine batteries during the start cycle so if one goes flat you might get stranded. It's not a good idea to switch most A/B switches when the motor is running. There are probably 20 different ways to wire it. I did mine in 05 with #4 wire to the distrubution block, then re-did it this year with #1/0 wire to the block then #4 to the amps. This was done to eliminate the voltage drop that was causing my amps to run hot and shut down. Spend a few extra bucks and oversize the wiring the first time. Keeping the voltage up is critical to keeping the system operating efficiently.

[inboardsonly]

BEP or Blue Seas Systems battery isolator....

I think what you want is from BEP Marine, or Blue Sea Systems.

The unit has 3 switches, and you leave them in the default position.

Both batteries in the on, and the parallel in the off.

When starting the boat, batteries are isolated, so that you don't send a voltage spike to the house (stereo) battery.

After engine has been running, the start battery is charged, the
relay clicks and now you are charging the house.
Turn off ignition, and batteries are isolated.

Start battery dead? Turn the parrallel switch.
House battery dead? Turn the parallel switch.

I put these on every boat, instead of a Perko switch, and they are, as a customer explained it, "a marriage saver"

These are a marine battery system, and work very well.