Originally posted by tommer12
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whos that bobchris guy i wouldnt let him work on my boat and 10 btdc your boat would be a dog and timing does burn wholes in pistons every one thinks its air and fuel but timing is very inportant i get all my information right out of the owners manual look for yourself and i think u line up the f1 right at the sensor at top dead center if u have at top dead centor when u took that pick looks like your a tooth off
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if you look at the owners manual on this site on the home page its all in there how to do it right under maintaince and tune up it says if you use 87 octane u have to retard your timing to 4 degrees so at 16 degrees your right in the middle to play it safe and you do have to unplug the knock sensor it tells you to do that in the book im not tell you wrong line up the pointer at tdc on the compression stroke on #1 cylinder and line up f1 on the plate with the sensor i think thats how i remembered on mine never had a problemOriginally posted by 93nautique0710 View Postwhos that bobchris guy i wouldnt let him work on my boat and 10 btdc your boat would be a dog and timing does burn wholes in pistons every one thinks its air and fuel but timing is very inportant i get all my information right out of the owners manual look for yourself and i think u line up the f1 right at the sensor at top dead center if u have at top dead centor when u took that pick looks like your a tooth offLast edited by 93nautique0710; 06-21-2010, 05:03 PM.
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Ill check the manuals on this site.... So If I open up plug one, find TDC on the piston, then take the device out, and align F1 towards Cylinder 1?
Thanks much! I tried a timing light and its hard to see when turning over how far it is off... even with a white chalk mark at 10 degrees (for initial).
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check your pm and number 1 is on the starboard sideOriginally posted by tommer12 View PostIll check the manuals on this site.... So If I open up plug one, find TDC on the piston, then take the device out, and align F1 towards Cylinder 1?
Thanks much! I tried a timing light and its hard to see when turning over how far it is off... even with a white chalk mark at 10 degrees (for initial).Last edited by 93nautique0710; 06-21-2010, 05:16 PM.
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Props to you my friend! That was the ticket! I did the following:
- put my finger over Cylinder 1 turned it over - pushed air out my finger
- pull the "device" out and turned F1 mark on the wheel to the contact tab
- marked my engine at 10 degrees with chalk
- unplugged the knocked sensor
- feathered my carb
- started right up.
- little smokey from paint and new heads, but went away.
- once I got her steady at 10 degrees, shut it down
- remarked to roughly 14/16
- timed it again and turned the "device" distributor. to 14/16
- Money!
- RPM was steady around 700-800 RPM. A little high, but I will let everything tighten up a bit and see where it is after being ran.
- Good oil pressure
- Cooling was normal around 140-160 with hose. (forgot to turn the hose on high.. got a little warmer than normal)
- no leaks around anywhere.
Thanks all for your help. Even the guy that got booted. haha.
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Good !Originally posted by bobchris View PostThis user has been banned for a period of seven days for not following the site terms of use.
I missed this thread while I was traveling. How about make it seven years.
On the TDC trick, carefully wad up the end of a shop rag and seal up cylinder #1's spark plug hole with it. Crank the engine around with a bar and when the rag pops out, you've found compression stroke.
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