stiff throttle arm

[tsimpson]

The throttle arm on my SAN 210 (2001) is stiff when moving from the neutral position (12 o'clock) to forward (10 o'clock) or reverse (3 o'clock) . It is only stiff when moving into or out of these positions. Once in gear it moves the boat drives well and there is no problem. It seems like it has a lump to get over when going into or out of the 12 o'clock position. It happens whether i engage the transmission or not. Can anyone help?

[seth]

RE: stiff throttle arm

Did you recently put PerfectPass on it?. I had the same problem on my 01 SAN after I installed PP. It turned out that my PP needed to be adjusted and it was fine.

[core-rider]

RE: stiff throttle arm

My '03 SANTE started having the same problem last season. I thought if I sprayed some white grease on the linkage it would help, but so far nothing. It came factory with PP and I just went and checked the linkage. There seem to be no problems there. It definitely feels like the shifter linkage at the helm is where the problem lies.

Like tsimpson said, it feels as if there is a lump when going from neutral to in gear. Once in gear the throttle works smoothly. Again this problem is present if going into gear or just giving the engine throttle without it being in gear. Any other ideas?

[WakeSlayer]

RE: stiff throttle arm

A new throttle cable is like $35. Sounds like the trans cable is fine.

[core-rider]

Well I decided I would investigate a little more and fixed my problem. The throttle cable mounts to the assembly through a hole and is kept in place with a keeper pin. I noticed the linkage would bind when trying to go from neutral to in gear so I removed the cotter pins from the assembly and the lever moved smooth as silk. I then removed the keeper pin that holds the throttle cable in place and moved the cable back one slot. Now it dose not bind and goes in and out of gear smoothly. I'm attaching some pics so you can get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

The first pic shows a close up view of the 2 different positions the keeper pin can be in. (Just under the cup holder) It was in the slot to the left moving the cable back. I pulled the pin and slid the cable back to the slot on the right and replaced the pin. The last 2 pics better show the whole assembly.

Hope this helps with your boat tsimpon.

[DavidF]

Hopefully you readjusted your linkage after you moved the cable. The proper way:

1. Disconnect throttle cable from throttle plate arm.
2. Place throttle lever in "gear".
3. Adjust end of throttle cable to attach to throttle plate arm without moving either.

You would be surprised at how many boats are adjusted incorrectly. I purchased four used boats and all were adjusted incorrectly. Even my friends boat was wrong.

[WakeSlayer]

Did you do this on the water so you can verify the adjustment? Shifters can get really hokey. I took me a while to figure the one on the Mustang out. Even one thread on the cables ends makes a huge difference.

[DavidF]

WakeSlayer:

Not sure if you question is meant for me or not. No, you do not need to make the adjustment with boat in the water. If you follow my steps above, it will work properly. Have you ever been in a boat where the RPMS tend to rise before the tranny goes in gear. If so, it is because the throttle cable was adjusted with the transmission in neutral. Adjusting with transmission in neutral can make the throttle cable be out of adjustment by an inch or more.

[core-rider]

DavidF, I didn't adjust the cable end at all. The end needed to be screwed in probably about 1/2", but moving the mounting point back like I described was much easier. I will go back tonight and check the adjustment with it in gear to make sure it is correct. Thank you for your input David. PDT_002

[WakeSlayer]

David, no, I was asking Core-rider. I had to spend a bunch of time on the old Morse in the Ponyboat as I was re-routing my cables forward through the bow. They are pretty simple once you figure them out, but complex as all get out at the same time. I thought I had mine perfectly adjusted and then dropped her in the water, and had no reverse. No kidding, one spin on the coupling at the trans end put it back right. RPMs are in the right spot and everything. Realizing this is the trans and not the throttle, but they are just as touchy. This is clearly a different shifter and a different situation. Was just curious how he determined that it was now working properly unless it was in the water. The way it feels and looks can be entirely different in my experience. Which is definitely limited.

[bchesley]

There is a manual on the CCF website on how to set up a morse control. I used it when I had my last boat. I replaced my 1983 OEM with a morse MV3 to gain a lock out due to kids. They are not hard once you know the process!!!

[WakeSlayer]

^^ true^^. But it takes some messing around.
I was trying to convert my original really old one to run the other way. Despite what a few said, it will not work, period. I also acquired the early 70's style now that I may use, however, I would have to run a new trans cable under the engine as opposed to over from the front as it is now. At least that one is reversible. For the time being I ran them rearwards, then made a large loop and ran them back forward.

[tsimpson]

thanks for your help. I've found the answer. I realised that it had started happening after i replaced the perfect pass cable. So i checked there and the spacing was wrong between the metal arm on the engine and the bracket where the throttle cable is attached where it meets the engine. All i had to do was move the bracket towards the front of the boat about 6mm. Now it is as smooth as ever.

[pav]

I'm having the same issue as Core-Rider on my 03 SANTE. Stiff going into Fwd & Reverse but after engagement, it is smooth the rest of the way. I can't seem to figure out exactly what is going on. I feel the binding/rubbing in the mechanism. Definitely not the cable or transmission links. Looks like there are two sets of plates (big fat washer looking shaped plates) and the smaller more fwd ones seem to be the ones causing the friction. Can you explain in a little more detail as to what you did?

[core-rider]

Update with better explaination I hope...

pav, I drew squares around the area I was talking about from the earlier post. The blue square highlights the area of the linkage I'm speaking of. The red square is where the pin is I moved. As you can se the pin can be placed in the left or right slot. It was originally in the slot on the left. By moving the pin to the slot on the right and cable sheath moves back about 1/2". I believe the cable inside the sheath has streched just enough for it to bottom out in the sheath causing the "binding" I was speaking of. By moving the sheath back that 1/2" it no longer binds and there is no need for adjustment of the shift cable position since it was never moved.

The second pic shows the pin in the new location. As you can see it is in the rear or right hand position. The first pic doesn't show very well the groove in the sheath that the pin slides into. It is hidden in that pic by the mounting bracket. I had the push the sheath just slightly forward to line up the grove with the proper slot.