That is strange because the GT40 was not available in 2003 boats.
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Got the boat out of storage today. Jeff, thanks for the tip on the rear locker button, a wire had fallen off. Works now!
Unfortunately the boat won't run... When I dropped it in the lake, hit the starter and it would turn over but not fire.. Over the winter I had the mechanic replace the speakers and headunit along with a few other things. While they were testing the stereo they didn't have the battery in the boat but instead powered it via battery charger. I was there when they powered it up and it clearly didn't have enough amps but they never tried to fire the boat. I have no idea if that impacted this. Never the less I started to troubleshoot and have done the following:
- Checked positive and negative battery cables, both are tight and showing 12 volts
- Tested the fuse on the positive battery cable, it both looks good and is flowing 12 volts
- Tested lanyard, it is showing good continuity
- Tried to press the three breakers on the back of the engine, all three appear ok
- Tested continuity of the 60 AMP breaker, it was fine
When I press the start button the boat wakes up but I don't hear the pump priming. Any other ideas?
I don't know where the pump is (still learning the boat) nor can I figure out where to jumper the relays to see if those are bad. I am open to ideas/suggestions. Pictures help if you have them, I have been reading threads to troubleshoot but am at a bit of a loss at this point.
Thank you
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I've found there are lots of sources of bimini hw if you search. Here's an example....
https://www.westmarine.com/bimini-hardware-parts
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2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
Bellevue WA
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Make sure there isn't an extra power cable going to the fuel pump. My 95 is setup like that. I freaked out last year when I was cranking mine and no fuel. Probably worked on it for an hour before I realized the extra wire on the battery was loose, which was for the pump!
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Thanks, have been diagnosing over the past two days. The relays and wiring is fine and the pumps do run when I ground the STO test terminal. Right now it is starting to look like the ECU may have stopped providing a grounding signal. Going to clean the terminals to the ECU tonight to see if that helps.Originally posted by gcam4 View PostMake sure there isn't an extra power cable going to the fuel pump. My 95 is setup like that. I freaked out last year when I was cranking mine and no fuel. Probably worked on it for an hour before I realized the extra wire on the battery was loose, which was for the pump!
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Not excited about this. Have been reading the threads about how to burn a new chip for an ECU. Anyone creating those chips right now? I have seen vendors selling ECUs for the GT40, they appear steep.
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There is a thread floating around for gt40 replacement ecu's. I just dont remember if it's here, ccf, or bos. I know you get a mid 90's ford ecu and send it to them or they send a chip. I dont remember exactly and I couldn't find the thread I am thinking of.
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