2013 SANTE 210 – Factory Tank Removal

[K561R]

2013 210 SANTE.. yanked the hard tanks yesterday. Tried to do it keeping them intact but completely lost patience and grabbed the ole trusty sawzall which made quick work. I did not love the piggyback system as I never had a good way of knowing then the actual hard tanks were drained. got tired of pulling the boat out and draining the remainder in the parking lot. I also love how much more space there is when the hard tank is gone. I reached out to wakemakers for help as well and waiting to hear back, but figured somebody on here has done this before...


The boat currently has WakeMakers 740 lb Plug-N-Play bags in the rear lockers that were piggybacked off the factory hard tanks. I removed the rear hard tanks yesterday and would like to replace everything with either the WakeMakers 1,020 lb bags or 1,100 lb FatSacs. I see a lot of folks mention going with the 1100s but they cant fill all the way. the 1020s are 50x25x20. the 1100s are 50x24x24. Im wondering if maybe the 1020 would be a better fit, to be able to fill all the way and still have some room on top for ropes/vests.

**A few questions:**

1. **Rear lockers:** What plumbing/fittings do I need to convert from the factory tank + piggyback setup to a single bag in each rear locker? I can send photos of the existing plumbing now that everything has been removed. It looks like I have a vent/overflow line and a fill/drain line going to each bag. I’m assuming I have more plumbing than I need now that the hard tanks are gone. Is there a simple diagram showing the best way to plumb this?

2. **Center locker:** I have the factory center hard tank piggybacked to an arrow shaped bag that I believe is around 325 lbs. The Arrow bag doesn’t seem to fit the space very well and can’t fill completely. Is there a better bag for this area that would maximize the available space?

3. **Bow ballast:** I’d also like to add a bag under the bow seats. Can this be incorporated into the existing center ballast system? Ideally, I’d like the factory center tank to fill first, then the center locker bag, and then have that overflow/fill the bow bag. I’d like to keep everything operating from the factory ballast controls rather than adding separate pumps/switches if possible.

Hopefully that makes sense. I’m mainly trying to maximize the available ballast while keeping the plumbing and operation as simple as possible. I have a few lead bags in the bow but would like to have the option to add weight and remove weight as needed. too much lead up front when not weighing down the stern seems a little sketchy.

[swatguy]

1). The 1100’s will definitely fill all the way in the 210 lockers. I have them . you’ll want to re enforce the dividers at the base. I just used aluminum L channel on back side with stainless screws direct into the deck on backside. Wakenakers makes a divider kit now tho. That I’ve heard great things. I have no experience as it didn’t come out til way after I did my project on my 08 210. The piggy back kit if done correctly should’ve had anti siphon loops. If not you want those or manual ball valve to put in line with the over flow port. You’ll just want extra hose , heat gun and fly high quick disconnects. The factory hose from hard tanks should be enough to just attach the quick connect fittings into fill/empty line on the bag My advice. Use marine 5200 on the threads. Without the sealant the fittings come loose over fill and empty cycles . Wakemakers will tell you pvc cement works , but it’s failed every single time for me.

2) the arrow sac was specifically designed for the 230. There’s not really a better sac that will give you any more weight than that does even in the 210. If you were starting from scratch I’d tell you save the cash and just get the locker sac.

3 ) Just get some lead wake bags to stuff under the bow seats. The back pressure of putting 2 sacs in line on the hard tank and then back to the pump is too much with double sacs back to hard tank . Can it be done yes , if you really want to do it that way , put manual ball valves in between the fill line on the under seat bag between that and arrow sac so when it’s full you can seal it off or reduce back pressure but then you’ll have to remember to manually release before you empty. The fill toke will be extended trying to force that second bag filled as well , Again tho about 400lbs of lead wake bags stuffed in nose retains all your underseat storage , give you more weight than any under seat bag will , gets it all the way to the nose which is key , and if you need to move them around for towing just keep them on walkway floor. As far forward as you can.

Lastly , if you’re going to be running all that weight. , which I run 1100’s 3/4 full , piggy back bag off center tank full , and 360lbs of lead bags in my bow full for wakeboarding .you’ll want to snatch up 2579 prop or at minimal 1617.

[K561R]

1). The 1100’s will definitely fill all the way in the 210 lockers. I have them . you’ll want to re enforce the dividers at the base. I just used aluminum L channel on back side with stainless screws direct into the deck on backside. Wakenakers makes a divider kit now tho. That I’ve heard great things. I have no experience as it didn’t come out til way after I did my project on my 08 210. The piggy back kit if done correctly should’ve had anti siphon loops. If not you want those or manual ball valve to put in line with the over flow port. You’ll just want extra hose , heat gun and fly high quick disconnects. The factory hose from hard tanks should be enough to just attach the quick connect fittings into fill/empty line on the bag My advice. Use marine 5200 on the threads. Without the sealant the fittings come loose over fill and empty cycles . Wakemakers will tell you pvc cement works , but it’s failed every single time for me.

2) the arrow sac was specifically designed for the 230. There’s not really a better sac that will give you any more weight than that does even in the 210. If you were starting from scratch I’d tell you save the cash and just get the locker sac.

3 ) Just get some lead wake bags to stuff under the bow seats. The back pressure of putting 2 sacs in line on the hard tank and then back to the pump is too much with double sacs back to hard tank . Can it be done yes , if you really want to do it that way , put manual ball valves in between the fill line on the under seat bag between that and arrow sac so when it’s full you can seal it off or reduce back pressure but then you’ll have to remember to manually release before you empty. The fill toke will be extended trying to force that second bag filled as well , Again tho about 400lbs of lead wake bags stuffed in nose retains all your underseat storage , give you more weight than any under seat bag will , gets it all the way to the nose which is key , and if you need to move them around for towing just keep them on walkway floor. As far forward as you can.

Lastly , if you’re going to be running all that weight. , which I run 1100’s 3/4 full , piggy back bag off center tank full , and 360lbs of lead bags in my bow full for wakeboarding .you’ll want to snatch up 2579 prop or at minimal 1617.

Thank you much for the detailed response. I ordered the 1100s and fittings today.

1. Did you do anything to fill the void in the floor where the hard tank was, theres a little 1' x 1.5' ish space there. Thinking of throwing a couple lead bags down there and then just screwing a piece of starboard material or something to cover it up so the new bags lay flat.

2. There is a bracket that the hard tank was attached to and appears to still be needed for the engine divider. What did you put over this (if anything) to prevent the sharp edge from tearing through the bag.


3. I also noticed there are no anti siphon loops installed, but there is a check valve on the line from the bag to the vent /overflow. Wakemakers did not mention needing the anti siphon loop or a ball valve. is the check valve sufficient? I didn't have any issues with water draining or filling when not wanted, but i did notice the bags would occasionally fill with an equal amount of air and water and would need to be manually burped. Hoping this will improve eliminating the piggyback system

[jhiestand]

K561R you received those 1100's yet? I followed suit with swat and also put the 1100's in. One of my piggy back bags started leaking so I went for it. Access to the engine once the tanks were out was a complete game changer!

1. I had some spare starboard I put over the 'holes', but since they were spare pieces and not quite large enough to do a nice finished job I haven't fastened them down. I feel they do a decent job keeping the bags from sagging into the holes.

2. As swat mentioned you'll need to do something to the dividers with the bag pressing against them. I went with the WakeMaker's Diver Panel Savers but they didn't work well for me and those bags when plumped up would still bow the heck out of the panels. I got fed up and went ghetto, adding 3/4" (plywood!!) quickly painted black fronting the brackets that the dividers slide into. I secured them with two stainless bolts at the bottom (nothing at the top) and holy cow, no more bowing dividers problems! I might also add that they cover up the brackets with sharp edges you mentioned.


3. Running an Acme 1617 and especially if we have more than four adults in the boat the prop is pretty much maxxed out. Haven't tried the 2579 but I don't really have complaints with where we are currently as far as prop performance.

4. Lastly, I'm not sure how the pumps work in the 2013's but the 08's just had three reversible pumps. Seems like we'd have an impeller failure or two every season, and the stock pumps are mega slow. A benefit of the 1100's is they have an additional port at the bottom of the bags I used to attach Tsunami 1200 gph's which does nothing for filling, but I can now empty FAR faster above the waterline with low current draw I don't mind running w/out the boat running. It works so well I'm considering how I might stick one of those pumps in the locker to empty the center tank.


Keep us in the loop as to how the upgrade goes!

[K561R]

jhiestand swatguy
Got the bags in today. Were you guys able to connect the wakemakers quick connect fitting into the factory fill hose? I have been using a heat gun and some dawn dish soap trying to wrestle this thing inside the hose but it does not want to budge. Any more heat and i feel like I’m gonna melt it.

[swatguy]

Sorry completely missed your followup.

1) I bought some cheap plastic “starboard” cutting boards and cut them to fit the floor for the void. I didn’t permanently fasten them. You have to put something there or bag will sink and put pressure on fill line.

2) I did nothing to the bracket. My bags have no signs of any pol points. But if you tow and fill that area up with boards ……I just stuff towel there because it will zing boards.


3) the check valve is not necessary. You don’t have to use an anti siphon loop or a ball valve either , but if you want to ensure the bag remains completely full to the max you’ll want the anti siphon or ball valve. Again not necessary , you’re not going to lose much out the side , but it will siphon out the vent line when it’s full without one just little bit. You’re not losing much , but it does happen til the bag levels out You can give it a go without and see. It saves you having to buy the parts. Like mentioned it’s not a necessity more of an option.

[swatguy]

jhiestand swatguy
Got the bags in today. Were you guys able to connect the wakemakers quick connect fitting into the factory fill hose? I have been using a heat gun and some dawn dish soap trying to wrestle this thing inside the hose but it does not want to budge. Any more heat and i feel like I’m gonna melt it.

I was. It’s was pain in the arse but you’re on the right track. You can also use some boiling water in lieu of heat gun. DON’T use the high setting on the gun. Use medium or low. Get some gloves, And let it warm up pointing down the open end of hose to warm up inside and all around end. It’s pretty hard to melt the factory hose, it is way more stiff so it takes bit. If you do melt it. Not big deal. Trim little off.

[K561R]

Thanks for the follow up swatguy - i tried boiling water too and heat gun for a long time. Like more time than i have patience. I probably should’ve started this project when the central Florida weather isn’t so brutal. I came up with a different idea. any reason not to just take off the factory hard wall hose and replace with a small section of wakemakers black hosing? From the pump to the bag. It’s certainly more malleable. I was able to connect that with half the effort and it’s the same size hose. I imagine it’s stout enough? Fortunately the existing plug and play system which I’ve removed left me with ample spare hose and hose clamps.

i got some black starboard to put over the void. Just ripped some sheets of 3/4” ply and painted black to mimick jhiestand panel reinforcement idea.

Seems like home stretch now. On the bottom of the bag, connect the 90 degree quick connect fitting, which is coming from the pump. plug other bottom port.
top port - 1 “air release” plug, other top port - 90 degree quick connect fitting that runs to check valve then to through hull overflow.

I will probably end up ordering the anti siphon loop, but definitely gonna use the boat as is first.

thanks again for all the help

[jhiestand]

I'm thinking I ended up using 3/4" barbed fittings and a threaded 1" to 3/4" adapter on the bag. That being said, if you're able to get the 1" in there and looks like you had a good idea on that front, you should be golden.

[K561R]

Good deal. Starboard void filler and additional 3/4” ply engine divider bracket reinforcement mod

got the bags hooked up and ready to roll. Off to the lake to see if it works! Hopefully i installed the check valves in the right direction. Also left the fill and vent hoses a little long , not sure if that will affect anything. Zip tied the vent hose up higher, figured i can always trim some hose, not as easy to make it grow…