2013 SANTE 210 – Factory Tank Removal

[K561R]

2013 210 SANTE.. yanked the hard tanks yesterday. Tried to do it keeping them intact but completely lost patience and grabbed the ole trusty sawzall which made quick work. I did not love the piggyback system as I never had a good way of knowing then the actual hard tanks were drained. got tired of pulling the boat out and draining the remainder in the parking lot. I also love how much more space there is when the hard tank is gone. I reached out to wakemakers for help as well and waiting to hear back, but figured somebody on here has done this before...


The boat currently has WakeMakers 740 lb Plug-N-Play bags in the rear lockers that were piggybacked off the factory hard tanks. I removed the rear hard tanks yesterday and would like to replace everything with either the WakeMakers 1,020 lb bags or 1,100 lb FatSacs. I see a lot of folks mention going with the 1100s but they cant fill all the way. the 1020s are 50x25x20. the 1100s are 50x24x24. Im wondering if maybe the 1020 would be a better fit, to be able to fill all the way and still have some room on top for ropes/vests.

**A few questions:**

1. **Rear lockers:** What plumbing/fittings do I need to convert from the factory tank + piggyback setup to a single bag in each rear locker? I can send photos of the existing plumbing now that everything has been removed. It looks like I have a vent/overflow line and a fill/drain line going to each bag. I’m assuming I have more plumbing than I need now that the hard tanks are gone. Is there a simple diagram showing the best way to plumb this?

2. **Center locker:** I have the factory center hard tank piggybacked to an arrow shaped bag that I believe is around 325 lbs. The Arrow bag doesn’t seem to fit the space very well and can’t fill completely. Is there a better bag for this area that would maximize the available space?

3. **Bow ballast:** I’d also like to add a bag under the bow seats. Can this be incorporated into the existing center ballast system? Ideally, I’d like the factory center tank to fill first, then the center locker bag, and then have that overflow/fill the bow bag. I’d like to keep everything operating from the factory ballast controls rather than adding separate pumps/switches if possible.

Hopefully that makes sense. I’m mainly trying to maximize the available ballast while keeping the plumbing and operation as simple as possible. I have a few lead bags in the bow but would like to have the option to add weight and remove weight as needed. too much lead up front when not weighing down the stern seems a little sketchy.

[swatguy]

1). The 1100’s will definitely fill all the way in the 210 lockers. I have them . you’ll want to re enforce the dividers at the base. I just used aluminum L channel on back side with stainless screws direct into the deck on backside. Wakenakers makes a divider kit now tho. That I’ve heard great things. I have no experience as it didn’t come out til way after I did my project on my 08 210. The piggy back kit if done correctly should’ve had anti siphon loops. If not you want those or manual ball valve to put in line with the over flow port. You’ll just want extra hose , heat gun and fly high quick disconnects. The factory hose from hard tanks should be enough to just attach the quick connect fittings into fill/empty line on the bag My advice. Use marine 5200 on the threads. Without the sealant the fittings come loose over fill and empty cycles . Wakemakers will tell you pvc cement works , but it’s failed every single time for me.

2) the arrow sac was specifically designed for the 230. There’s not really a better sac that will give you any more weight than that does even in the 210. If you were starting from scratch I’d tell you save the cash and just get the locker sac.

3 ) Just get some lead wake bags to stuff under the bow seats. The back pressure of putting 2 sacs in line on the hard tank and then back to the pump is too much with double sacs back to hard tank . Can it be done yes , if you really want to do it that way , put manual ball valves in between the fill line on the under seat bag between that and arrow sac so when it’s full you can seal it off or reduce back pressure but then you’ll have to remember to manually release before you empty. The fill toke will be extended trying to force that second bag filled as well , Again tho about 400lbs of lead wake bags stuffed in nose retains all your underseat storage , give you more weight than any under seat bag will , gets it all the way to the nose which is key , and if you need to move them around for towing just keep them on walkway floor. As far forward as you can.

Lastly , if you’re going to be running all that weight. , which I run 1100’s 3/4 full , piggy back bag off center tank full , and 360lbs of lead bags in my bow full for wakeboarding .you’ll want to snatch up 2579 prop or at minimal 1617.