Switching a fiberglass platform for a teak platform on 2005 SV211

**SilentSeven** · 2025-07-15T01:44:50+00:00

I don't think a wood platform will make much difference. Even with the slots in a wood platform, there is still significant platform area for waves to 'lift' and "drop" the platform. If I was you, I'd just purchase new hull mounts and platform brackets and enjoy a few years of no issues. IMO, as the mounts wear, the problem accelerates as the tolerances increase.

My current platform (wood) and mounts (original) have a decent amount of play in them. I've toyed with the idea of replacing them but for me the issue is just not worth the resolution price.

SG · 2025-07-15T14:15:44+00:00

You’re probably right. I replaced the pins with stainless steel bolts and it seemed to help somewhat but there is still a slight amount of play. Do you happen to know if the original brackets are still available?

**SilentSeven** · 2025-07-15T21:59:45+00:00

Try one of these. Not 100% which one you need

https://nautiqueparts.com/search-res...roducts&page=1

Get 10% off with discount code PND10

**bturner** · 2025-07-16T12:31:31+00:00

I did the switch on a MC I had but I really just preferred the wood over the fiberglass platform. I was lucky as the dealer had customers that wanted the fiberglass and had a stack of wood ones. The wood platform was significantly lighter than the fiberglass platform which I saw a bonus assuming less unstrung weight would be beneficial. As SilentSeven states though it did little to nothing to prevent the slamming in rough water while anchored. Hearing/seeing the slamming is quite unnerving as you just know it can't be a good thing for the boat.

SG · 2025-07-16T14:23:44+00:00

Good to know… thanks. It’s interesting they only show port and stbd brackets but not the middle one. Of course the middle one is the one that has play in it…kinda pricey too!

**FMSKI** · 2025-07-16T16:14:59+00:00

The SV211 platform is big. And heavy because it's made near indestructible.
I kept the same size when I went to my glass/plywood lightweight version.

Pressure = surface area. So a true "grid" may have up to 50% less area for the size. Or downsize the platform if solid.

I built a temporary platform from nice clear 1x6" cedar. I used 3 joists on the brackets, then used Hillman screws to attach the deck boards from the top side. Worked great, still have it. Lightweight, cedar is durable and strong enough. Could be an option to using teak.

SG · 2025-07-16T17:33:01+00:00

Originally posted by FMSKI View Post

The SV211 platform is big. And heavy because it's made near indestructible.
I kept the same size when I went to my glass/plywood lightweight version.

Pressure = surface area. So a true "grid" may have up to 50% less area for the size. Or downsize the platform if solid.

I built a temporary platform from nice clear 1x6" cedar. I used 3 joists on the brackets, then used Hillman screws to attach the deck boards from the top side. Worked great, still have it. Lightweight, cedar is durable and strong enough. Could be an option to using teak.

Cedar would definitely be lighter than teak and much cheaper. If I build one I will probably use heart redwood, it’s readily available and not outrageously expensive. The fiberglass one is extremely heavy not to mention the large surface area. It’s worth a try. You don’t happen to have a picture of it do you?

**FMSKI** · 2025-07-16T19:08:01+00:00

I cut 5052 Alum 0.1" sanded & brushed (3M cloth) to make a bump strip. I cut grooves in the planks to make it look like strips. I think it's 1x5" after the cedar is bullnosed and finished. Cedar is a bit janky for sure, being a soft lumber. A harder wood, like teak is more stable. But wood will do if finished with a mix of turpentine, "spar" varnish, and teak oil (33/33/33). that's what the cedar is coated with

Plywood platform with, FG resin, epoxy undercoat, Interlux toplac white topcoat. On the underside screws I wonder about water intrusion since we just sink the platform for surfing.

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