Looking for advice on new system.
I have 2 JL MHD amps that I'm removing from my old boat and will use in my new boat. I'm planning on buying a pair of Wetsounds REV10s for the tower. If you had a choice, would you use a 750/1 or a 600/4 to power the speakers? I've seen seen expert recommendations from David Analog who often recommends using the 750/1 for REV10s. And he addresses the insignificane of "stereo" channels in two hlcd speakers closely mounted on the tower. But I've never seen a comparison between the 600 vs a 750. Is the power difference noticeable, or any other advantages between the two?
BTW, my new boat is a 2011 Sport Nautique 200 and I will be swapping my stock Polk amps into my old boat.
My new system "plans" are:
* I have 1 MHD600/4 to power 8 stock Polk in-boat speakers. All are Polk MM650s: 4 cockpit, 2 bow, 2 rotating cans on sides of the fct3 tower.
* I have 1 MHD750 for ported sub under observer seat. My current Sub is a Line-X coated factory JL Audio ported MicroSub, single 12TW1. The box is nearly direct-radiating via stock 10" speaker grill opening in the walkway. I mounted the sub speaker facing the stock opening and glued in some speaker cloth so it looks like the stock Polk 10" sub opening. The 750/1 will be gained down for the 300watt rms specs of the sub. It's overkill for my current sub, but I like having an efficient, regulated amp that I can stack and save space. And maybe room to grow to a larger sub latter on.
* Need to buy 1 MHD750 (or MHD600) for a pair of REV10s on the tower.
I have a WS420 for control which will be mounted near the driver's helm. And powered directly from Iphone, using a Wetsounds inline RCA volume control between phone and WS420. I want to mount the volume control right next to the throttle for fast volume control when towing so I don't have to fumble for volume when watching everything else. I think I'll prefer the inline RCA control because its faster than having to wait a second for the VC-BT Bluetooth version to change the volume. But both options are cheap enough that I can switch them out if I decide to use the VC-BT control which is nice for BT and track control.
I'm planning on upgrading the stock Group 24 battery to an Odessey group 31 which is mounted in the rear port compartment. I'm planning on bypassing the factory multi-fuse configuration and using an inline 120amp switchable fuse mounted near the battery. Positive/Negative ground to battery for all of the system to prevent ground loop noise. About a 10' run from battery to distribution blocks near the amps that will be mounted under the observer seat. Will a "real" 4 gauge main wire be enough for power. JL Audio's wire guide says 4 gauge is sufficient for 20' based on their numbers...Or should I just use 0 gauge? FYI, I already have enough 4ga OFC and 4 ga dist blocks so it would save me money.
Sorry for the long post, but any help or suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff
I have 2 JL MHD amps that I'm removing from my old boat and will use in my new boat. I'm planning on buying a pair of Wetsounds REV10s for the tower. If you had a choice, would you use a 750/1 or a 600/4 to power the speakers? I've seen seen expert recommendations from David Analog who often recommends using the 750/1 for REV10s. And he addresses the insignificane of "stereo" channels in two hlcd speakers closely mounted on the tower. But I've never seen a comparison between the 600 vs a 750. Is the power difference noticeable, or any other advantages between the two?
BTW, my new boat is a 2011 Sport Nautique 200 and I will be swapping my stock Polk amps into my old boat.
My new system "plans" are:
* I have 1 MHD600/4 to power 8 stock Polk in-boat speakers. All are Polk MM650s: 4 cockpit, 2 bow, 2 rotating cans on sides of the fct3 tower.
* I have 1 MHD750 for ported sub under observer seat. My current Sub is a Line-X coated factory JL Audio ported MicroSub, single 12TW1. The box is nearly direct-radiating via stock 10" speaker grill opening in the walkway. I mounted the sub speaker facing the stock opening and glued in some speaker cloth so it looks like the stock Polk 10" sub opening. The 750/1 will be gained down for the 300watt rms specs of the sub. It's overkill for my current sub, but I like having an efficient, regulated amp that I can stack and save space. And maybe room to grow to a larger sub latter on.
* Need to buy 1 MHD750 (or MHD600) for a pair of REV10s on the tower.
I have a WS420 for control which will be mounted near the driver's helm. And powered directly from Iphone, using a Wetsounds inline RCA volume control between phone and WS420. I want to mount the volume control right next to the throttle for fast volume control when towing so I don't have to fumble for volume when watching everything else. I think I'll prefer the inline RCA control because its faster than having to wait a second for the VC-BT Bluetooth version to change the volume. But both options are cheap enough that I can switch them out if I decide to use the VC-BT control which is nice for BT and track control.
I'm planning on upgrading the stock Group 24 battery to an Odessey group 31 which is mounted in the rear port compartment. I'm planning on bypassing the factory multi-fuse configuration and using an inline 120amp switchable fuse mounted near the battery. Positive/Negative ground to battery for all of the system to prevent ground loop noise. About a 10' run from battery to distribution blocks near the amps that will be mounted under the observer seat. Will a "real" 4 gauge main wire be enough for power. JL Audio's wire guide says 4 gauge is sufficient for 20' based on their numbers...Or should I just use 0 gauge? FYI, I already have enough 4ga OFC and 4 ga dist blocks so it would save me money.
Sorry for the long post, but any help or suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff
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