2- JL Audio M12IB6 Subwoofers--2016 G23

[LakePowellMan]

The 12" JL Infinite Baffle Subwoofers showed up and my installer, Chris@ Performance Audio got them installed in the stock locations...with some cutting of course. These new 12" subs from JL are beasts and there needed to be significant cutting done to replace the original 12" Polk Audio DB1240 subs we installed. After just a short listening session it's clear these JL subs are an improvement over the DB 1240s. That said, the Polk subs really did a great job, and I'd recommend them highly as a good choice if you want to watch the budget. They hit hard and have gave significant bass throughout the boat. Remember, these can be found for $70 each.

The JLs are the premium option. They hit harder, play louder, and the sound is a bit tighter than what I heard in the DB1240s. I'm very happy with the sound...especially since they are infinite baffle and I lost absolutely so storage space. Very happy about that. I wanted clean, hard hitting bass...and that's what I got with these subs.

I have the two subs powered by a WetSounds SD6, two channels are not being used...so each sub is getting just over 500W @ 4ohms.

Here's a picture...

[Tallredrider]

You had Polk 12 inch DB1240's in your 2016 G23? I thought all 2016 models came with JL stuff.

How did you access the sub under the driver's feet? I was somehow under the impression that it was next to impossible without doing it during the original manufacturing process.

[LakePowellMan]

Tallredrider--my G23 did come with a 10" JL Infinite Baffle Sub. Depending on which package you, you get either one or two subs. I ordered just the stock system, not the M-Series Studio Elite package that includes the second 10" sub and additional audio equipment.

The JL 12" Infinite Baffle subs weren't available when my installer first started working on my boat, so we went with the Polk 12 inch DB1240s in the stock locations. Of course he had to do some cutting to make the subs fit, then when the JL's finally shipped we put them in....which required additional cutting. The JLs are big subs.

It's not easy, but very much possible to install a sub in front of the drivers feet. I didn't have the stock sub there, but the hole is there from the factory to accept a sub. There is access to the helm through the back of the bow seat cushion. There is absolutely no comparison between stock single 10" JL sub and two 12s in the stock locations. An order of magnitude more bass.

According to JL Audio, they worked with Nautique to develop vents throughout the boat to allow the bass to radiate. According to JL Tech support: "Because of the perforations in the gunnels in the 2016 G boats, the bass fills the entire boat, including up in the bow." Look closely in the gunnels and you'll see the cutouts which were put there by the factory.

While the perforations are great, I'd still recommend additional vents to allow all the bass to escape when you upgrade to 12s.

[David Analog]

Quote, "While the perforations are great, I'd still recommend additional vents to allow all the bass to escape when you upgrade to 12s."

^^^ I agree 1000%. I'm not totally sold on the factory subwoofer venting scheme as a complete solution. You need apertures of greater surface area, close to the subs, and positioned as low as possible.
And with these particular JL Audio 12-inch subs, I would do a lot of extra work to stiffen the baffle structure.

[Tallredrider]

If the hole is already there, I would probably be game for putting another 10 in there and then seeing if I feel the need for the 12 later. Summer is getting here, and I don't want to spend my time working on the boat when I could be playing on it. 12's could be done over the winter. I am nearly content with 1 10 inch speaker once I actually put the amp into low pass mode. 2 would do the trick, I think. Thanks for the heads up that the cutout is already there.

David, what do you mean by 'stiffening the baffle structure'. Knowing you, I might get a complex answer. (simple mind here). You mean just by venting the compartment to a greater degree?

I was going to vent my 2015 Nautique with a JL12W6 in a sealed box, but frankly, I could tell no difference at all with the garbage can door opened or not, or even with the seat lifted up, so I abandoned the idea. It hit plenty hard and rattled the crap out of the glove box, but with that setup, I really saw no difference with venting the compartment. It may have been my imagination, I think the 2016 IB subwoofer does sound better with the garbage can door open.

[LakePowellMan]

If you're "nearly" happy with a single 10 adding a second infinite baffle sub in the stock location seems like a no brainer. Get a good infinite baffle 10" sub (I'd get a 10" JL infinite baffle) and you'll notice a significant difference. You could go listen to a system with a upgraded audio system from the factory to give you an idea of what to expect. You should not need to do any reinforcement adding a 10". My installer used some 3/4 " material rings around the front and back of the sub to reinforce the mounting. I can send a picture when I'm back in my office which won't be until late this week. I'm debating adding a third sealed enclosure in front of my garbage can but have a hard time imaging it will help my sound.

[Tallredrider]

I just found that the 12 inch IB sub from JL sells for $800. That seems pretty steep compared to the $300 for the 10 inch. Considering that I could get a JLW7 and a sealed box that would rattle your teeth for that price. But you've got my mind thinking for wintertime upgrades already....

[MLA]

I just found that the 12 inch IB sub from JL sells for $800. That seems pretty steep compared to the $300 for the 10 inch. Considering that I could get a JLW7 and a sealed box that would rattle your teeth for that price. But you've got my mind thinking for wintertime upgrades already....

Come winter, maybe there will be other options to choose from

[David Analog]

I just found that the 12 inch IB sub from JL sells for $800. That seems pretty steep compared to the $300 for the 10 inch. Considering that I could get a JLW7 and a sealed box that would rattle your teeth for that price. But you've got my mind thinking for wintertime upgrades already....

I'm not surprised at the cost of the IB 12-inch as compared to a W7 of the same size. Both speakers are totally from scratch and do not share any parts with any subwoofer of the same size or within the same series. The JL Audio IB12 has a 4-inch voice coil, larger than the JL Audio 12W7. However, I just don't feel that there is any way to compare these two drivers since they do not share similar applications. An infinite baffle 12-inch applies to a select few towboats, with recent Nautiques being among the few boats that can facilitate a 12-inch IB sub. On the flip side, there are a number of off-shore boats that will not facilitate an enclosed subwoofer, and an IB 12-inch is a welcomed option.
In most boats that will fit an IB 12-inch there is a lot of extra work to do in order to gain the full potential of this type of subwoofer. An infinite baffle requires full front to rear acoustic isolation (an enclosure) for a distance equal to the lowest/longest reproducible wavelength, and a baffle that is exceptionally rigid. Two elements that are rarely automatic.

[LakePowellMan]

I just found that the 12 inch IB sub from JL sells for $800. That seems pretty steep compared to the $300 for the 10 inch. Considering that I could get a JLW7 and a sealed box that would rattle your teeth for that price. But you've got my mind thinking for wintertime upgrades already....

One look at that 4" coil on the 12s and it's a lot beefier than the 10s...but to your point...a lot more expensive. The budget route is the Polk Audio 1240s which did an amazing job when powered well...but adding a second 10 in your case makes a lot of sense.

You should be able to find the JLs for $700 or so. I love the JLW7 and one in a sealed box in my Mastercraft. These 12s hit harder and require a lot less power. I also liked that I didn't lose any space with the IBs...but am considering adding a sealed JL12W3v3-4 in the location in front of the trash can....just because I am powering the two 12 IB subs with a WetSounds SD6 which does 580X3 @ 4ohms and I have a sub channel just sitting there waiting to be used. Food for thought for the winter....

Anyone care to comment if they feel I'll just be mudding things up by adding a third sealed sub to my mix of two 12 IBs in the stock location?

[David Analog]

You know the Polk Audio DB1240 subwoofer is a lower 'Q' acoustic-suspension driver, intended for a very small and defined enclosure, and very dependent on the enclosure for damping and control of the cone motion. It is by no means an infinite baffle subwoofer. Can you use it in an IB application? Sure, with limited power and decent results up to a point. But when you cross a power/volume threshold using this driver in an IB situation, it starts to get sloppy, loose sounding, is prone to over-excursion, and is subject to the transmission of more boat vibration. A great budget option, and a great subwoofer value for under $100. But it is what it is. It needs a box like all Polk Audio subwoofers.

[LakePowellMan]

You know the Polk Audio DB1240 subwoofer is a lower 'Q' acoustic-suspension driver, intended for a very small and defined enclosure, and very dependent on the enclosure for damping and control of the cone motion. It is by no means an infinite baffle subwoofer. Can you use it in an IB application? Sure, with limited power and decent results up to a point. But when you cross a power/volume threshold using this driver in an IB situation, it starts to get sloppy, loose sounding, is prone to over-excursion, and is subject to the transmission of more boat vibration. A great budget option, and a great subwoofer value for under $100. But it is what it is. It needs a box like all Polk Audio subwoofers.

Totally agree David...the Polk DB1240 is a good budget option...and it's not the right sub for the job, but I will say I was surprised how well it did. The JL Audio IB 12" sub is the premium option. I learned this from reading previous post from smarter people like you about true IB options.

[Tallredrider]

Lake Powell Man,

I dug around in my compartment in front of the driver and it appears that the subwoofer hole is not pre made. I think the perfect location exists, but man is it going to be a PIA to drill it now that the boat is made. Did your boat initially come with the upgraded system with 2 subs? I only ordered the base system.

Here is a pic looking after I removed the little hatch above the driver's knees, looking towards the front of the boat. You can see some of the attachment points for the back of the front seat at the top of the picture. The black area is essentially where the front ballast lives.



I had a little fun with photobucket...pretty amateur, but you get the idea.

[Neverenough]

I wonder this JL would sound like in the side wall of a 230 where the 10 is?? Anyone ever do it? I'm about to have to buy an amp anyway and with the sub I have now I'd be about the same money buying the infinite baffle JL and a smaller JL 750 amp. Any thoughts from the pros?

Not to mention all the extra storage!!!

[LakePowellMan]

Lake Powell Man,

I dug around in my compartment in front of the driver and it appears that the subwoofer hole is not pre made. I think the perfect location exists, but man is it going to be a PIA to drill it now that the boat is made. Did your boat initially come with the upgraded system with 2 subs? I only ordered the base system.

Here is a pic looking after I removed the little hatch above the driver's knees, looking towards the front of the boat. You can see some of the attachment points for the back of the front seat at the top of the picture. The black area is essentially where the front ballast lives.
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I had a little fun with photobucket...pretty amateur, but you get the idea.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n487139[/ATTACH]

I ordered my boat with the base system with just one subwoofer. I think you may be looking at the back of the box. Go to the bow, remove the backrest in the bow area in front of the driver, and see if you see the hole for the subwoofer.