Adding a sub in a 2009 210 sante - best place for it?

[airhuck]

Wanting to add a sub to my 2009 210. What works the best? I'm thinking that wall in b/t the walk way to the bow- same wall under the glove box?? What have y'all done?

[RideButter]

I see many people venting that wall and keeping the sub underneath the glove box. I'm getting ready to cut a hole in my wall and letting the face of the sub point out. My new Roswell 12" looks too awesome to hide it underneath.

I'm just trying to decide to sandwich that wall between the sub and the box, or mount the sub direct to the box and just let the grill stick out past the wall.

I also have the dilemma of using a vented box, it complicates trying to expose it through that wall. Using a sealed box would be easier.

[airhuck]

I know little about sub boxes, but i thought the marine subs didn't need boxes. My Polk 10 that's mounted by the drivers seat slams. I'm assuming there's no box there.

[RideButter]

Being marine or not does not determine if it needs a box or not. Some subs are infinite baffle or "free air" subs, they are designed to not need a box.

If you do a little searching, many people on this site complain about the performance of their factory 10" sub behind the driver's seat. Its a good sub, but its not an infinite baffle sub, so many have seen good gains by replacing that sub, or moving that sub to a box.

I am disconnecting my factory 10 and adding a Roswell 12". I should be done with it this weekend, but my plan is for a vented enclosure mounted to the walkthrough wall, with the sub and the vent pointed out. Just trying to figure out how to make the install the cleanest looking.

[perry386]

Being marine or not does not determine if it needs a box or not. Some subs are infinite baffle or "free air" subs, they are designed to not need a box.

If you do a little searching, many people on this site complain about the performance of their factory 10" sub behind the driver's seat. Its a good sub, but its not an infinite baffle sub, so many have seen good gains by replacing that sub, or moving that sub to a box.

I am disconnecting my factory 10 and adding a Roswell 12". I should be done with it this weekend, but my plan is for a vented enclosure mounted to the walkthrough wall, with the sub and the vent pointed out. Just trying to figure out how to make the install the cleanest looking.

I honestly wouldn't go for a vented enclosure. My understanding is that a vented gives a boomy sound and a sealed gives a tight punchy sound. It's what ever you prefer; I really don't know why I typed this it was of no help.

[MLA]

I see many people venting that wall and keeping the sub underneath the glove box. I'm getting ready to cut a hole in my wall and letting the face of the sub point out. My new Roswell 12" looks too awesome to hide it underneath.

I'm just trying to decide to sandwich that wall between the sub and the box, or mount the sub direct to the box and just let the grill stick out past the wall.

I also have the dilemma of using a vented box, it complicates trying to expose it through that wall. Using a sealed box would be easier.

If you have already chosen the sub, then use the sub's T/S parameters to see which style enclosure the sub is best suited for. Some fall in the middle, some lean toward sealed while others perform better in a ported enclosure.

[scottb7]

I have a 12" polk sub under the glove box in a sealed box. It sounds really good, plenty plenty of bass. But when I am alone and really want to over do it I open the cooler door. I just relocated the 2 plastic pieces that keep the cooler from moving around to keep the sub box from moving around.

Yes, I kind of wish I did not lose the space to the sub, but don't really want to cut hole that size anywhere for infinite baffle sub. I did not really want to keep a cooler that size anyway. Usually when folks come out boarding people bring their own small cooler that fits under seats. And when we just relax and bring larger cooler it just sits in center of boat.

[EarmarkMarine]

I honestly wouldn't go for a vented enclosure. My understanding is that a vented gives a boomy sound and a sealed gives a tight punchy sound. It's what ever you prefer; I really don't know why I typed this it was of no help.

A bass-reflex (ported or vented) enclosure can be the very best in sound quality or it can be a peaky one note resonator depending on who is doing the design. In the most conservative and well damped alignment, bass-reflex can give you 3 dB extra output (equivalent to double the amplifier power) in the meaty part of the bass plus give you another one/third octave of deep bass extension before reaching the half power roll-off point. Most of the 2-channel floor standing home audio speakers between $5K and $200K will be bass-reflex not to mention a healthy percentage of studio monitors where the music is mixed and engineered. You can imagine that any cork sniffer spending $200K on a pair of speakers plus the cost of the corresponding equipment is going to be very picky about the bass sound quality. In the open field environment of a boat with the way bass propogates and dissipates, the best sounding subwoofer will always be the one where the sub and sub amp are operating the most conservatively...and bass-reflex gives you that extra acoustic leverage.
Ultimately the enclosure determines the deep bass production more than the driver, so as Mike (MLA) mentioned getting the ideal match is paramount.
Venting the port observers locker is describing something else entirely.

David

[airhuck]

will the fiberglass wall on the observers locker be strong enough to hold the weight of a sub? looks like kinda thin fiberglass.

[EarmarkMarine]

will the fiberglass wall on the observers locker be strong enough to hold the weight of a sub? looks like kinda thin fiberglass.

Place your back against a solid surface and your heel against the center of the speaker mounting surface. Easy does it, but if you can create any degree of flex then the surface should be reinforced from the interior side using a baffle ring or panel. If it doesn't have any degree of compliance with the leg press test then it's likely that no additional baffle strength is required.

Oftentimes you can sandwich a small sealed enclosure to the interior and an 'air suspension' sub to the exterior. An 'air suspension' set up will give you better performance once pushed for more output.

In either option, you have a direct-radiating woofer which is preferrable.

David

[RideButter]

Sealed box in the walkthrough. Could not be happier! Total game changer in my boat stereo!

[RacingSims]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]22307[/ATTACH]

Sealed box in the walkthrough. Could not be happier! Total game changer in my boat stereo!

Any additional pics? More info on sub and amp please.

[ncarilli]

Did you build a box behind the sub or just let it use the observer compartment as the box? Did the fiberglass support the sub or did you have to reinforce it? I am looking to cut a 10" sub into the walkthrough wall of my 206. THANKS

[LKN210]

Approx 3 cubic ft ported box housing a 15 and as big of a vent as I could put in the walk-through wall. Couldn't be happier.

[nyryan2001]

LKN --- Is that ^^^ the 1500w Treo setup?