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  • Prop hitting lift bunks

    Third times a charm... busted my prop up again hitting my lift bunks and looking for some advice. I have cantilever hydraulic lift with carpeted load guides on the side. The guides are set to the widest spot on the boat(rub rail). When the boat is lowered thereís a little play from left to right, if the boat ends just a little bit past the perfect spot forward thereís enough play for the prop to hit the bunks under the boat. Iím pretty cautious trying to avoid but itís not always that easy. Iíve been thinking about adding from guides to the from or maybe a bow stop. Bow stop concerns me about scratches. Any thoughts?


    Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

  • #2
    Photos would really help, but it sounds to me like your bunks are too close together. They should be 32 inches inside-to-inside.

    -Charles

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    • #3
      First question - are you hitting your bunks or the cross-bar of the cradle (sounds like the cross-bar from your description). If your tagging the actual bunks, then I'd agree with Charles that your bunks are too close.

      If you're tagging the cradle, you either need to mark out the carpeted guides to line-up with something specific on the boat to prevent going too far it, or would recommend you fab up a bow stop of some sort. Canti's can be a little tricky hitting the right spot. If you did a bow stop similar to what's on the old ramlin trailers (pair of boards in a V that the rub rail only contacts), then you shouldn't have any gel coat scratching issues. Only putting the lift down enough to get on/off helps as well, as you'll usually stop up on the bunks before getting too far.

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      • #4
        Pictures below. This is a Basta lift and as far as I can tell I cannot widen the bunks. There also isn't a cross bar, it appears it's the bunks. I don't really like the carpeted bunks as they seem to scratch the side of boat at times. I'm thinking of adding these to keep me centered ( https://bastaboatlifts.com/product/c...g-guide-steel/) I could also add a bow stop( https://bastaboatlifts.com/product/bow-guide/ ). I'm not sure I'd need a bow stop if I kept the boat centered.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          And yes I often just put the lift down enough and it helps. However 9 times out of the 10 Iím filling the ballast on the lift so I need to go all the way down


          Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

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          • #6
            Hmmm. With the boat guides staying on the frame, and not moving with the bunks - makes it a bit harder to line up with a marked spot on them, but it could still be done (but would be dependent on being unballasted, otherwise the bunks will meet the hull in a different place when they come up). With the way that lift is framed up, fabricating an alternative bow stop would take some doing, and the one they have is probably your best bet if you need one. Beyond that, I would just say make a habit of coming in very slow and killing your engine before you have a chance to tag a bunk with a spinning prop.

            Do you have the key fobs for yours? You could always run the cradle up a bit before you get on if you ballasted on the lift and its too low.

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            • #7
              Click image for larger version  Name:	CFCA1F10-6E49-4A7B-81C6-990D9BDE5A2D.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	34.3 KB ID:	562006 Click image for larger version  Name:	F863F4DE-13B1-4F23-98D5-FC25EB0EC01D.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	34.2 KB ID:	562005 Couple different ways to approach this and get a viable solution. You can add a bow stop to your cradle that will prevent you from coming too far forward should that be the issue.

              Those carpet guide ons I am assuming are wide so they donít rub the decals off your boat when you pull in. Solution to that ........What I did to conquer that was remove the carpeted horizontal piece from the uprights and simply slipped a 3inch round pvc ( what I think was the size off the top of my head ) cut to my desired length around the upright with a cap on it. . This way it only touches my rub rail at the contact points and you can get the poles a little tighter to prevent slop left to right. Once my neighbor saw what I did ,,, he did the same to his cantilever for his 230 and hasnít looked back

              Last solition is to shorten the rear part Jon of the bunk a bit , probably not the most popular , but it can be done.
              2000 Mastercraft Xstar 2004,2005 Ski Centurion Avalanche C4 2003, Ski Centurion Cyclone 99,2000,2001, 2002 Ski Centurion Elite V/Hurricane/lightning 88 2001 Nautique

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