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My 220 SANTE

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  • My 220 SANTE

    Thought I would share. Sort of new to the forum but have had this boat the past few years. It has received a complete make over including a Roswell Tower and bimini. Full custom wrap with metal flake. Interior is being done right now, and waiting for my Gatorstep decking to arrive.

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    That looks really nice. What year?

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    • #3
      Thanks Man, Its a 2006 220 SANTE. Will post more photos once the NSS, Gatorstep, and new interior gets all installed.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by SwiftnessNautique View Post
        Thanks Man, Its a 2006 220 SANTE. Will post more photos once the NSS, Gatorstep, and new interior gets all installed.
        Very cool. I really want to see the Gatorstep. I have a 2007 220.

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        • #5
          Thanks Man, It's a really smooth process. Patience is one of the keys to a good install, and making sure you opt for the paper template. If interested be sure to reach out to Mason at the East Coast location. This guy, along with Miranda, and Johnathan have been absolute rock stars. I received the GatorStep today. I attached a photo with it just laying on the carpet. The interior skins should be arriving within the next week so I can ditch the cracked seats. I'm going to be adding a 2nd sub under the helm making it two 12" comp sub and will be changing out the 6.5 speakers then moving on to the interior LED's. Also want to have the frame of the steering wheel color matched to the blue on the GatorStep and other interior pieces. I have to make this boat stretch for the next few seasons before buying my G.



          Click image for larger version

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          • #6
            Looks great! Lets see some more exterior and interior pics.
            2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200

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            • #7
              That came out great. Was it hard to remove the factory tread material? Did you also do the swim platform?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Evening Shade View Post
                Looks great! Lets see some more exterior and interior pics.
                I will get more loaded once it stops raining. But here is pics of the transom steps along with the fabricated walk through. I received confirmation that the interior skins should be getting shipped any day now. I spent the day today putting the Gatorstep walk through I built with help from a PN member, along with the transom steps. Have still have to install the swim platform Gatorstep. Please ignore the messed up interior that is slated to be replaced within a few days and the Nautique logo which I'm replacing with the white logo.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ecoastkid View Post
                  That came out great. Was it hard to remove the factory tread material? Did you also do the swim platform?
                  The factory anti-skid material can be a pain in the butt getting out. I used a heat gun to warm the material up and slowly peeled it back. Use caution when doing this since the glue and the existing anti-skid material can get very hot and burn your hands. In regards to the flooring, if you have carpet just unscrew the snaps, purchase some gel silver cloud gel coat patching kits and fill the holes, sand and buff. The flooring material will need to be along the outside of the gel coat tooled grip. Stuff doesn't budge once the adhesive properties take affect.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SwiftnessNautique View Post

                    I will get more loaded once it stops raining. But here is pics of the transom steps along with the fabricated walk through. I received confirmation that the interior skins should be getting shipped any day now. I spent the day today putting the Gatorstep walk through I built with help from a PN member, along with the transom steps. Have still have to install the swim platform Gatorstep. Please ignore the messed up interior that is slated to be replaced within a few days and the Nautique logo which I'm replacing with the white logo.
                    Wow that looks great and its exactly what I want to do. Irronically, my boat has the same interior as yours...including the rips in the same spot..haha I'm going to have my interior redone next winter but I can probably do the Gatorstep this summer. Do you mind if I ask what it costs?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ecoastkid View Post

                      Wow that looks great and its exactly what I want to do. Irronically, my boat has the same interior as yours...including the rips in the same spot..haha I'm going to have my interior redone next winter but I can probably do the Gatorstep this summer. Do you mind if I ask what it costs?
                      PM Sent.

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                      • #12
                        How easy was the Tower swap? Did you go with the dual foot option for a specific reason, or just because it was cheaper? Iím looking at the flat base single foot option for my 2004 210 SANTE, but not sure if the mounting area is level enough. Any pics from that install?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JAppler View Post
                          How easy was the Tower swap? Did you go with the dual foot option for a specific reason, or just because it was cheaper? Iím looking at the flat base single foot option for my 2004 210 SANTE, but not sure if the mounting area is level enough. Any pics from that install?
                          The swap was fairly easy. The main issue is that I know that I would be installing the REV10's and the dual foot option has the tower sitting higher. Now that it is installed and have been out on the lake a bit, I don't see how the shorter one would have worked. You would have to crouch down just to get under the bimini. I have friends that are 6'+ that would have hated it. I'm a about 5'10" and it would have closed line me too.

                          Unfortunately I did not take pics of the install. Now depending on your gunnel the two feet one can work on several applications. The towers width can be adjusted during install as well.

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                          • #14
                            Hey can you let me know what you had to do to fab the walk through?


                            Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Tidrow55 View Post
                              Hey can you let me know what you had to do to fab the walk through?


                              Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
                              Hey bud. First thing you will need to do so you don't minimize boat season time is get all of your materials. Some people have used 1/2"-3/4" acrylic sheets, but I chose HDPE marine board sheets. To get proper adhesion out of the HDPE you will need sand it with 320 sand paper then torch it using a small hand held torch. But first get your materials.
                              • You will need the sheet materials of your choice,
                              • Counter sink stainless steel screws long enough to get through your material and fiberglass deck engine hatch below without punching through the other side,
                              • Construction adhesive,
                              • Jig saw with an acrylic cutting blade,
                              • Router with beveled edge bit, and straight bit with guiding wheel,
                              • Hole saw kit
                              • Small hand held torch
                              • Ammonia

                              Once you have assembled everything you will need to remove all of the upholstery from your engine hatch including the access door and all the plastic from the top section so all you have is the fiberglass deck. Be sure to save all your latch lock mechanism pieces for later.
                              1. Lightly sand the top of the fiberglass hatch to remove glue and high points from your surface.
                              2. Take your sheet material and lay it out flat. with the hatch unfinished side facing down lay it out on the sheet material and trace out your pattern. If you have a router I would trace your cut line at least 1/2" so you can let the router cut out the rest.
                              3. Once you have your pattern remove the engine hatch cover, and start cutting out your pattern on your sheet material using the acrylic bladed jig saw.
                              4. Once done center the cut sheet material so that you have the 1/2" reveal all the around you engine hatch cover. Set two stainless steel counter sink screws to stabilize it on the deck for he router.
                              5. With the sheet material on top and the engine hatch on bottom, set your router cutting bit to the depth where the guide will is at the very edge of the engine hatch so all that you will be cutting is the HDPE or Acrylic using the existing engine hatch as your guide to flush cut the sheet material. Do several passes with this so you know it's smooth and flush.
                              6. Then take your beveled router bit, test the router depth with one of the drop pieces from your cut to get the profile you want. The beveled bit has a guide wheel on the bottom as well so you can use your new cut edge from the HDPE or Acrylic to guide your bevel.
                              7. Bevel all your leading edges of the HDPE or Acrylic for a clean look.
                              8. You can now remove the two counter sink screws and blot on several sections of construction adhesive between the deck and sheet material. Using the two stainless steel screw holes as guides to re-align your material to the engine hatch reset your screws. In a pattern that wont show when adding your anti-skid material set multiple counter sink stainless steel screws to secure it to the fiberglass hatch. Be sure the heads are flush or below the sheet material surface.
                              9. Flip the hatch over so the original hatch finished side is facing up. Measure the existing holes for your latch assembly and drill out the (1) large hole for the latch lock, and the (2) small holes for the screws.
                              10. Flip the unit back over so the sheet material is facing up.
                              11. Take your lock assembly and measure the outer diameter to match a hole saw width.
                              12. This part is trick, you will need to take a flat piece of your sheet material for your hatch lock and secure it down to surface. you will need two hole saws, one for the lock, and one for the outside lip of your mounting for the latch. What i did was use the smaller hole saw to begin cutting the hole for the lock, and stopped half way through the material, then get the larger one using the same pilot hole to begin cutting the outer diameter deep enough where the center pilot hole guide is not needed anymore. Now you can finish drilling out the small one 100%, switch the the larger one and cut the outer diameter 100% using your already half way cut as a guide.
                              13. Take your router and bevel the outer diameter for a smooth finish.
                              14. Take a small dab of construction adhesive with your hatch lock already set in your pre-cut donut piece and set it through the drilled holes on your new sheet material.
                              15. Assemble the bottom side of your latch and set you nuts and bolts, sandwiching the donut cut piece to the sheet material.
                              16. Once done, you can either contact sea deck or Gatorstep to have them send you template material for your anti - skid if you want a certain cut pattern. Or you can contact Mason Obrey from the east coast Gatorstep and tell him Brian from Austin TX sent you and you would like them to send you a paper cut template that I used to match it up to your deck. Make adjustments as needed, choose your color and order.
                              17. Once your material has arrived, sand the sheet material on your new cover using a 320 grit sand paper. This is important, then get your hand held torch and torch the sheet material to burn off all of the oils. Use an ammonia grade cleaner to wipe down the surface, line up your anti-skid material and roll out all the bubbles.
                              18. Your set! you know have a walk through. Be sure to get all the air pockets out of the anti-skid and then press down all the sides locking down the material. I found using a bakers rolling pin help wonders.

                              Let me know if you have any questions. GOOD LUCK!
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