Faria Gateway Box Replacement with Garmin MFD

[mjmaatman]

WakeHawk This thread inspired me to do a similar project on my 2006 SV211. I purchased a Veratron VMH35, a VMH14 Satellite Gauge, and the Veratron Engine Box. I got the basic wiring done at this point. Can you provide detail on how you hooked up the Engine ECU? The current 3 pin connector in my boat has two wires, that the manual says are data ground (black) and data (white). Shield says not connected. The J1939 adapters and the Engine Box I purchased show CAN High and CAN Low inputs. Do the two existing wires get connected to the CAN High and CAN Low inputs I.e. data ground to CAN Low and data to CAN High?

[WakeHawk]

mjmaatman you are correct, the white wire in the factory boat wiring is the CAN High wire, and the black wire is the CAN Low wire.

[Miljack]

WakeHawk is your Fusion head unit setup for Apple Car play? I think they have released some of those head units now...

[WakeHawk]

Miljack yes, the Fusion MS RA-770 I installed does have Apple Car Play

[Miljack]

Do you notice the sound quality as being better for streaming music than bluetooth? I've been using Deezer in my car and notice a big difference when I plug it into Apple Car play (Toyota requires plugging into the USB port for Air Play).

[WakeHawk]

Miljack, I gave you some bad info the other day, the RA770 doesn't have Apple Carplay, it does have Apple AirPlay 2 so if you connect to the stereo's wifi you can wirelessly stream over the wifi. I've used all 3 connection methods, the bluetooth and airplay sound about the same, when I hook in using the USB port is a little bit clearer. I think the stereo's DSP really cleans up the audio no matter how it is getting there. Occasionally the bluetooth connection would get buggy and randomly drop, but this was pretty rare. Fusion released an updated firmware a few weeks ago that I installed, haven't used the stereo for an extended period of time to see if they finally completely fixed the bluetooth randomly dropping.

[Skiyalater]

WakeHawk,
I too have issues with my 2008 Super Air 210 very intrigued with your replacement, now that a couple seasons have passed is there anything you would do different, or to your knowlege parts now avaliable that would make this easier? Also I am new to this site for some reason your photos do not open on my computer of cell phone, Is there a way to refresh them of send me a private message with them?

[acr21]

WakeHawk I know this is a long shot but since the images are all broken in this thread, do you by any chance still have any of the relevant images available from this project or any images of the finished product? I am planning on embarking on a similar project on my 2009 SAN 210 in the future and the images would be really helpful.

[Hicks]

I was also wondering the same thing as acr21. I plan on this being a winter project this year.

[WakeHawk]

Dug through my NAS and found the pictures from this project.

First is to get the top dash pad off. If you have a defroster, the vent part will pop off and below that is 4 screws to remove.


Then the dash pad is held on with some heavy duty velcro, just pull up gently.

Then will have some screws on the top of the dash pod to remove.

[WakeHawk]

On the bottom side, there will be some wing nut looking things to loosen up to give the trim pads some play to get to the lower screws. there are a couple hiding under the side trim pads, those should just be velcro'd on.

Left hand side

Right hand side

What you should end up with with the dash pod out.

[WakeHawk]

I have a bunch of pictures of wiring harnesses that probably aren't worth reposting so skipping those. Building adapter wiring harnesses would be dependent on the new hardware chosen. The Nautique factory wiring uses Deutsch connectors, and I didn't have to cut any factory wiring on the wire harness side, was mostly a plug and play install.

[WakeHawk]

Building the new dash panel was time consuming, used some balsa wood to get the shape right and did a mock up. Built the final product out of aluminum and used stainless steel hardware. I tapped and threaded a lot of the assembly, ended up through bolting a couple of angle brackets at the top and a bottom support.

Top through bolted brackets.

Picture of the top and bottom brackets that hold on the dash plate. The top bracket bolts to the top angle brackets, the bottom bracket through bolts through the fiberglass.

Assembled dash

[WakeHawk]

And here is the final product.

[WakeHawk]

The Garmin MFD has had several software updates since installing it and it has only gotten better, have had no problems with this new system. The original write up hopefully would answer most questions on how to get this installed.