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Anyone Have Trouble With Helm Control Ballast Valves?

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  • CC will supply the three TH valves, but will not install. I still may swap the TH out for the Red Hats someday, just not at the top of my list. I would also like the info Greg is asking for.

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    • valves

      i just had my dealer in north little rock re-do the cables and ball valves, he found some ball valves somewehere close. they work awsome and were cheap,, i never touch the manual valves under the engine compartmant,,, thing of the past.

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      • I realize this is an old thread, but I was hoping to get pointed in the right direction. I just recently purchased a 2005 Nautique 226 Team from a Nautique dealer. I believe I am the second owner. The first time out I twisted one of the helm valves right off. I replaced it with a new one and the valve on the other end seems to be stuck. My tanks fill on their own. Besides this issue so far the boat is problem free and I would like to get everything working correctly.

        So my question is, what direction should I go? I have read through the whole thread. Should I call the dealer and try to get them to give me parts and fix it myself or should I buy the red hat valves and put those in? Is there anyone who has done this on a 226? I would like a little input on where to find everything.

        I have not located the valves on the boat and confirmed that they were never changed from the Flow-Rite to the T-H valves.

        Thanks

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        • Wagner,
          If I'm not mistaken, your center ballast tank should be able to be accessed by the floor locker. Open it up and look for all black valves. Those are the updated ones. I am currently working on converting my ballast system to one like Jeff's old 210. Instead of using the pricey solenoid valves, I have found submersible/waterproof motorized ball valves that I think should do the job. I am waiting for the valves to come in and can update you once I get them installed and wired up. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined you could easily install the valves and then all you would have to do is push your fill button and voila; valve opens and tank fills. Valves close when they aren't powered, sealing out the water from pushing through and filling tanks unwillingly.

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          • So thirteen years later, what is the best option to fix this issue? I have read all of the thread and it is obvious that technology has evolve considerably over the span. I am the second owner and don't mind the manual valves if they hold out/in the water and are the easiest to fix.
            Last edited by beamons; 09-06-2017, 05:00 PM.

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            • You will get mixed options depending on how "automatic" you want it to be and how much you wan to spend. The easiest/cheapest thing to do is open/close the manual ball valves at the hull penetration scoop. In the stern, these are the long blue-handled rods; in the belly, it is a short handle inside the locker round access cover. more expensive ways are (a) replace aerator pumps with reversible impeller style pumps or (b) add 12v solenoid valves in line with the fill pumps and splice power wires from fill pumps to solenoid valve - this way when the pump is powered on the valve opens, when turned off valve closes.

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              • Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead...

                Does anyone have or know where to get the T-H RDV-2-DP valves? All the sites Iíve seen either donít have stock or look questionable.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • I used these in my boat, and 0 issues so far.

                  3/4" Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 12VDC N.C. Air Water Fuel VITON https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ1J4H0..._ZtaQEbPMTBET9

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