More info when allowed to post more.
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You're allowed to post as much as you want. Until we see valid content though, your posts will be moderated and approved as necessary.Please do not PM me directly asking for advice on how to repair your boat. While I would love to help everyone, I simply do not have time to respond to all of the inquiries. Please post your questions on the forum, so that all of our members have a chance to answer.
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A little backstory from the weekend.
Took boat out Sunday and it was running great until I got an overheat DTC116 alarm on the screen. Shut the engine off and looked for blockage in the trap. Nothing seemed wrong out there so I just got towed back to the ramp. Turned the motor on for about 20-30 seconds to try and put on the trailer and temp got up to about 210 ish giving a DTC217 code and started bogging so I immedaitely turned off and swam it on. Got boat back to house and found that the belt had come off the raw water pump. That explained why it overheated and after more investigation I saw why the belt came off. The upped bolt that holds the separate pump to the block had broken in the middle. After drilling out the old bold and replacing it I was able to put the pump back to its intended location. Replaced impeller while I had it apart. Went to put the belt back on and it was super tight. Almost impossible to get on, but it is marked as the right part number and I triple checked the orientation. Finally got the belt on.
Now I am where my issue currently is. When I start the boat it runs great until it gets above 140 degrees. Once there, the idle drops and it starts running really rough. Sometimes it bogs enough to die. Once it gets back down below 140 it runs fine again. I've been trying to find where the location of the ECT sensor is, but online points me in all the wrong directions. There is hardly any info on this motor online. The only sensor that looks like it might be the ECT is on the side of the top of the motor just behind the alternator. This is nowhere near the thermostat or the water pump that it says it should be near. But there are no sensors I can find anywhere near where they are describing. That sensor has a yellow and black/white wire going to it. If I read the impedance of that sensor it goes up with temp instead of down which is against what everyone says. I ordered a new sensor to compare it, but I have to wait for it. So, maybe I am testing the wrong sensor and maybe I just cannot find the correct one to test. Has anyone got any famiarity with the supercharged xr7 engine because I can't find hardly anything about it online?
Boat is unusable until fixed obviously, so any help is appreciated. I don't have a tester to check the computer for readings. I know people will say just take it to the dealership, but the wait time for repair is basically the rest of the summer.Comment
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Check the thermostat first. The problem starts right around the temperature where it should be opening, and the overheating incident could have damaged it
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Thank you for the input.
I considered the thermostat might be an issue, but the behavior makes me think not. I would think that if the thermostat sticking open or closed this would cause the temp to either stay sort of low or start to overheat. The temp goes up at the expected rate. The engine is just running terrible when it gets up to operating temp. The temp will continue to rise as expected when it starts bogging, so I don't think it's a mechanical issue. It seems that something that the PCM activates at normal operating temperature (140F) is causing an issue. I was initially thinking the ECT sensor, but there is zero info about this engine anywhere online and I cannot find where it is. It is normally near the water pump or thermostat but there are no sensors in those places. The only sensor that looks like it could be an ECT is on the top side of the supercharger. But that seems like an unlikely place for it and upon taking some readings, that sensor has the impedance get higher with temp rather than lower. Obviously that could be an effect of a bad sensor, but chances are it is some other type of sensor for the supercharger.Comment
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Sounds as if the ECM is commanding closed-loop idle after 140, but why it's running rough I'm not sure. Likely the sensor you found is MAT (manifold Air Temp) sensor. I believe the ECT is in the driver's side cylinder head, but that could be wrong.
Since you mentioned there were codes displayed on the dash, is it possible there is something that needs to be reset in the ECM? Might be worth a diagnostic fee at the dealer just to rule out a diagnostic code reset issue, plus they could read all the sensor values to see if they are within spec.Jason
All black 2003 SANTE
-- Southern Fried --Comment
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https://www.downloadboatmanuals.com/motors/pcm/ has a 2017 PCM XR7 Manual that's free
A.I. said to try https://www.boat-manuals.com/pcm/Last edited by JayG80; 14 hours ago.Comment
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I think you need to be super cautious at this point to avoid any significant damage to the engine.
How hot did it get when it overheated? Did you see the highest temp you reached on the gauge? If it got over 220, there are lots of things that should be checked out on the engine before trying to run it. The fact that it got so hot at the ramp could indicate it got really hot and was still really hot when you restarted it.
The belt being super tight is a red flag too? Were you holding the spring loaded belt tensioner in the right position while reinstalling the belt?Comment
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