Anyone have any tips on changing the raw water impeller on a v-drive? I have done this myself the past 4 times. I keep feeling like it will get easier, yet I struggle each time. My hands just can't reach where they need to go. I just spent 3 hours on what should be a 30 minute job. I've got bloody knuckles and its leaking so I get to tear it apart tomorrow again. Every step is difficult working by feel, but in particular I struggle getting the bolts lined back up on re-installation. There has to be an easier way. I'm about ready to trade for a direct drive. Open to suggestions. 2015 230 with 409.
-
-
Open the ski lockers. Remove all of the stuff in there. Pull the big side covers up and out to gain better access to the engine. Climb in the port ski locker, put your phone aft of the engine and take a photo of the belt routing. Now put a 1/2” or 3/8” drive ratchet with a 15mm socket on the idler pulley bolt. Apply pressure toward starboard to release belt tension and slide the belt free. Climb out of the port ski locker. Assemble a 1/4” drive ratchet with a 4-6” extension and a 10mm deepwell socket. Climb into the starboard ski locker and lay facing the engine with your feet toward the helm. Stick the 10mm through one of the holes in the raw water pump pulley to loosen the first of three bolts holding the pulley and pump cap assembly onto the housing. Do not remove the pulley itself. The three bolts each have a small o-ring on the tip (inside the pump) to retain them in their holes once you pull it all apart. Just get the bolts all the way loose, they don’t have to be pulled out. If you pull them out you will have to fish in the bilge under the oil pan for the tiny o-rings if you don’t have new ones. Grab the pulley firmly and wiggle it side to side while applying aft pressure to get the pulley and cap assembly free of the housing. The impeller should come out with it. If it doesn’t, stick it back in and twist while pulling out. If that doesn’t do it, get a 90° pick like this to pull it out. If the impeller looks ok (not missing any chunks) throw it in a quart sized ziplock and keep it in the boat. Replace the big o-ring and three small o-rings on the bolts if you have new ones. Thro the old ones in the bag with the impeller (just in case). Put the new impeller on the shaft, add a little impeller lube or dish soap if you want, and twist the pulley while you wiggle it back into place. Direction doesn’t matter, the vanes will flop into place as soon as you crank the starter. Get the assembly aligned and as close to home as you can, then start on the three bolts. If I remember correctly, the holes have to be clocked a certain way or all three bolts won’t go in. Use the 10mm socket and extension to get them all started before you tighten them up with the ratchet. Wipe sweat from your brow. Climb out of starboard ski locker. Stretch your lower back and wince. Climb into port ski locker. Climb back out of port ski locker and grab the big ratchet with the 15mm socket. Use it to apply pressure to the idler pulley and reference your photo from earlier to route the belt correctly. Remove tools. Slide side covers back in, close ski lockers. Drop it in the water and start it up. Watch temps stabilize around 165°. Drink a cold beer. -
Sounds so familiar for some reason.....
I was going to comment on this but for some reason was under the impression that it may have been a different version of the pump than what I have or the installation for the engine package made the process much more difficult.
This is the video I used as a reference for changing the impeller the first year I bought my boat just to get an idea of what I was dealing with.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZx2YTuwH5g
I think the overall process is going to be the same with the possible and most likely probable difference being the belt routing. As DoubleUpDisaster states, take pictures of the routing or get your engine manual out to ensure you have this documented. There really is no easy way to do this job without contorting your body and making old man noises to get at the impeller or for that matter anything else located on the front of the engine. I haven't gotten there yet but the only easier method I've seen is taking it to the dealer for replacement.
The crazy part is this is a long way from the most difficult impeller to change. The 2012 MasterCraft I used to work on had the impeller located next to the oil pan and the impeller itself had a keyway key that would fall out while you were trying to line the impeller up while standing on your head. I talked to friend at the MasterCraft dealership about how they changed them and he told me they remove the pump and charged 2 hours labor for the replacement. I ended up using some Blue Loctite to hold the key in place but that didn't change the standing on your head part of the process. Worst impeller design I ever worked on.Comment
-
Hey DCM - I had the 5.7 but I really struggled because ZERO space / standing on head etc. I figured out my muffler was pushed too far forward-maybe the exhaust runs were cut a bit short for some reason.- I unbolted the exhaust tubing/ risers from the muffler (bought new riser bolts at ACE)
- Get new riser gaskets - may as well replace while apart
- painted the of the riser elbow.
- Measured/cut new tubing but basically gave myself (+/-) a couple extra inches of new exhaust tubing. This allowed there to be a usable space to access the impeller / pulleys, with the muffler back a bit further.
- I also replaced those hose clamps with nicer stainless band clamps - looks a bit dressier.
I did a post - probably a few years back if you're curious. I wanted to fix the annual maintenance problem, not suffer through it each year (dropping the pieces, struggling etc).
Comment
Comment