Old Transducer - New Gauge

[srock]

I have a 2009 230 with a failed gateway box, and I am working on the installation of new gauges and I will post the install once complete. The old gateway box is going to be eliminated.

The original depth was displayed in a small, hard-to-read window at the bottom of the speedometer. I would like to use the original transducer connected to a new 2" gauge. Does anyone know if this is possible or whose gauge would work?

[bturner]

Maybe, but probably not.

You'll need to get the number off the transducer then call the manufacture. I tired to do this with my 16 200 Sport and found no joy, even fried the transducer in the process. In my case (and probably yours) the transducer will be made by Airmar. On my first call to them I was told that it "should" work which I should have interpreted as won't work. I was given what they believed would be the correct pin out which I used to make a new connector pigtail for the standalone depth sounder.

After mounting the new gauge and plugging everything up, nothing worked. Worse, when I reverted back to the initial configuration the water temp and depth no longer worked in the multi-gauge. A second call and 2 phone transfers later to an actual product engineer resulted in an actual correct statement that the transducers used by Nautique (at least for my boat) were proprietary and would not work with any non-Nautique gear. My thought is that the bus used going to the PDM is digital while the standalone depth gauge I used is digital. I could be completely wrong on that statement and maybe some one will come along and correct me on that.

Regardless, I can tell you first hand on my installation that they were not compatible which is what the engineer also stated. Since I still wanted the water temp (the kids and my wife demand to know the water temp before getting in the water) I ended up having to buy a crazy expensive Nautique transducer to get that feature back.

In the picture below you can see the "after market" gauge located between the 2 larger standard gauges. My temp and depth are displayed in the multi display on the gunnel which also displays/controls the ballast levels and the speed control. Everything except the air temp runs through the control PDM on mine.

If there's been a weak area on this boat I would say it's been the gauge package. While nowhere near what others have experienced having to replace a LINC display I have had some challenges. I've replaced the following....

Left Multi-gauge - Oil pressure gauge sticking. Had to replace the multi-gauge.
Gunnel mounted multi-display - The display baked and was very difficult to read. I replaced it then heard someone was repairing these. I think I kept it if someone needs one.
Throttle base - I had the dreaded "no neutral lock out" issue with the control. Based on how easy it was to get everything apart, I believe it was replaced before.

While by no means horrible that throttle base and gunnel display were crazy expensive (I believe I paid about a grand for each). The transducer was on me so I won't include that in my gauge issues. All in all though I'd have to say this has been a pretty rock solid boat. I bought it at a good price knowing it was going to need some TLC to get it where it's currently at so at the end of the day I can't kick.

[srock]

Thanks for taking the time to post. Great information. My thought of using the existing transducer and saving the effort involved with installing something may be offset by time-consuming research with the risk of burning up equipment. After reading your post, the quickest and sure-fire solution is to scrap what I have and start fresh. Entering into the unknown, and the time spent researching may not pay off.

[NautiqueJeff]

We have done numerous gateway bypass installs, and never had to replace the transducer.

See these instructions. They say nothing about replacing it.

03-05-analog-gauge-installation-with-additional-notes-for-06-07-with-perfectpass (2).pdf

[bturner]

As stated in my post my boat is a 2016 and what I posted was my personal experience on that boat. A 2008 model is a very different boat from a 2016 gauge implementation perspective. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to take Jeff's recommendation on this as he's working on boats that are much more similar to yours (maybe even the same model) than my 2016 model. On my boat, it was very clear the transducers were not compatible which I verified with Airmar. Yours on the other hand based on what Jeff is stating and the Gateway instructions are showing should work fine.

[srock]

I see there are two known options for replacement analog gauges:

1. The TRD gauges and bus from Ski Boat Parts online.
2. The Nautique Parts Faria gauges and bus.

I chose the TRD because I like the look of the gauges. There are other benefits as well:
-The TRD's LED backlighting is switchable between red or blue versus white on the Faria. I think white is too bright at night.
-The TRD speedo has an 8-hour time-out "off" to eliminate any continuous parasitic draw. The 8-hour time-out eliminates satellite-acquiring delays at startup. I believe the Faria is always drawing power.
-That TRD gauge connections are plugs versus individual wires landed on studs and secured with nuts. (that's awkward-sounding) TRD's are much easier to connect and should also eliminate any loose conditions over time.
-The Nautique Parts Faria installation appears to be a little more complex.

Cons:
-The TRD is lacking a depth gauge. I will add that separately as a stand-alone gauge, but on the 230 dash, there is not a great spot for the additional gauge. I will also have to find a place for this gauge. In contrast, the Faria added the fuel to the speedometer gauge, so everything has a home.


My search for solutions required a lot of digging to understand the solution, so I know many could use this information. I will post my findings once the installation is complete.

[bturner]

My depth, water and air temps were all located in the display on the gunnel. Even with the new display that installed the numbers a so small you really have to focus on them to read them. When moving they become near unreadable without taking your eyes completely off the water in front you you which is why I went with the larger display on the dash.

Looking forward to seeing your installation post.

[shield]

will love to see the after

[srock]

The depth on the stock gauge was useless. Tiny and at the bottom of the speedo and usually hidden by the steering wheel. for my operating environment, I want to be able to see the depth easily. I am placing a separate 2" depth gauge in at the top of the cluster and relocating the fuel next to my fusion stereo control. I replaced the old round Clarion remote years ago.