Weak Starter issue

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  • bigmyk2k
    • Jul 2025
    • 2

    • Joplin, MO

    • 1996 Sport Nautique

    #1

    Weak Starter issue

    TL;DR- Starter turns over slow, but eventually catches, don't think it's the battery. What's my next step?

    I am the proud, recently new, owner of a 1996 Sport Nautique with the GT-40. I've been in the boat world my whole life, but am new to ownership and doing my own maintenance. I did know enough to change the impeller and oil immediately. In fact, I'm pretty sure the impeller is why I got it for such a good deal. Or maybe not. It's not a perfect boat, but I bought it knowing that. I'm going to post a couple of different topics, rather than rolling them into one.

    One issue that I'm running into is what seems like a weak starter. There is a whole list of other things that may factor into this (the driver's safety kill switch has been bypassed; there are two batteries, one in the usual place and one in one of the bins in the playpen, both tied together and neither of which is affected by the battery kill switch in the glove box, a new fuel issue I'll post separately, etc.). However, the first issue with the engine I encountered is that, when turning the key, the engine turns over very slowly before catching strongly. I know there's plenty of juice in the batteries (I've slow charged them to capacity and maintained them with a smart trickle charger, and they've tested strong) but it sounds kind of like a weak battery. It turns over at maybe 1-1.5 cranks per second, typically for about 5-8 seconds before catching.

    Having (I think) ruled out the batteries, I'm looking at the starter. I think, from what I've seen that I probably need to change out the whole starter, not just the solenoid. From what I understand, if it was the solenoid, the starter wouldn't engage and I'd just get the click.

    So, MY QUESTION TO YOU is, does that seem like a reasonable evaluation? Should I, A) bite the bullet and buy the OEM starter ($440 from Miami Nautique), B) buy another starter that should work ($165 from NautiqueParts.com, or possibly something else), or C) are there other electrical things I still need to look at?
    Thanks in advance!
  • XBIGPUN66
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Oct 2012
    • 468
    • Lake Mendota

    • WI

    • 2014 SAN 210 TE. NSS. Pro ballast.

    #2
    What is the battery voltage when you are cranking to start?
    Ian S
    2014 SANTE Reef Blue/ Black metal flake. NSS. Pro balllast. Boatmate trailer
    2004 SANTE Masters Blue. 4000 lb ballast, 2013 graphics (prev). Ramlin trailer
    2009 Moomba Outback Red(prev). Boatmate trailer

    Comment

    • Rednucleus
      • Jul 2022
      • 213

      • WA

      • Club Boat 2014 Ski Nautique 200

      #3
      I'll bet it needs a new battery, or maybe cables.

      Comment

      • bturner
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Jun 2019
        • 1655

        • MI

        • 2016 200 Sport Nautique

        #4
        I'll start with, the starter on my boat always has me wondering. It seems to be solid, always works but just doesn't instill confidence in the sound but I think it's just the way this one is. It works every time, never has a problem engaging, it just turns the engine over slower than I would like.

        On a boat that year I would be looking at grounding and cables and would be my first place to examine. I'm not a big parts cannon guy but we're talking about a 30YO boat here. I've only purchased used boats and electrical is typically my first priority as I do Great Lakes boating. Nothing like being stuck at the corner of "no and where" to make your day. Also, it sounds like you have a "custom" dual battery installation that I personally would have zero faith in. That alone would have me crawling all over the boat and probably ripping it all out to install something I could have confidence in.

        Most boat manufactures engineer the electrical to meet code and that's it. I've owned several boats that have experienced grounding issues due to minor corrosion issues and just a basic level of redundancy built into the spec of the electrical system. If I had any doubt about the condition of the primary wiring circuits or I was upgrading the stereo system or adding dual batteries, I'll start by building new cables to the starter and block ground using wire that is 1 or 2 gauge thicker marine gauge wire than what was stock. On your boat, with what is sounding like a hacked in dual battery setup, that would be coming out on principal alone.

        Is this your problem? I honestly don't know as I'm not there to look at the boat but if it were my boat I would already have new cable, connectors and a Blue Seas "add a battery kit" on order.

        Comment

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