SN200 2014 Overheating after shutdown and restart

[BertClijsters]

I have taken the transmission cooler apart again. I saw that the inlet was deformed, possibly by tightening the clamp too much. This caused a dent in the inlet. I have removed it as best I could and reconnected the hose properly. Tomorrow I will go for a test drive.
If this doesn't help, I'll replace the cooler with a new one.

[BertClijsters]

Hello All,

In the meantime, I've replaced the oil cooler and the raw water pump. I've checked all the hoses again, but the problem persists. I notice air bubbles coming from the pump outlet.
I'm now going to replace all the hoses on the suction side, especially the one with the 90-degree bend and spring.
Could it still be my dripless shaft seal, which is worn and allowing too much water to pass through?

[BertClijsters]

After a year of searching, we have found the cause of the problem. It was indeed the dripless shaft seal. For those who would like more info, please let me know.

[bturner]

On the 2012 MCs the water line for the dripless shaft seal came off a "T" between the output of the pump and the circulation pump on the engine. I always wondered what would happen if the plastic "T" cracked or wasn't sealing. I, as I'm sure others, would love to here about the fix. Too many times people show up on these sites, get what they need the ghost the thread.

[BertClijsters]

My problem was that the hose to the propeller shaft bearing drained my entire engine when I stopped it. This was caused by the siphon effect resulting from the water supply to the propeller shaft bearing. This creates an air bubble at the top of the engine, causing the thermostat to malfunction. Whenever I gave it some throttle, this air bubble disappeared, and the problem was solved. In the meantime, I had replaced all parts of my cooling system: impeller, raw water pump, circulation pump, thermostat, all hoses, oil cooler, strainer, and even completely disassembled the exhausts to flush them because there might be debris inside. All without result.

After a lot of searching, I finally got the golden tip: I made a loop in the hose to the propeller shaft bearing that sits higher than the thermostat. Now there is no more siphon effect, and the engine no longer drains.

Hopefully, I can help other people with this who have the same problem.

[FMSki 'n Surf]

edit Sorry I missed the resolution. I put a clamp on the dripless hosing to prevent exhausting antifreeze during winterization. The amount of flow thru the dripless was ridiculous; so much water was being diverted there, would not recommend using one.

[bturner]

During winterization we had to pull the hose at the dripless shaft seal and put a bolt in the end of it or it would siphon most of the antifreeze out of the block. On that Ilmor engine package the raw water pump (and hence the fitting) sat basically at the level where the oil pan met the block. Horrible design. Worse yet they used pump with an impeller with a key. You basically stood on your head trying to get the impeller installed while not letting the key fall out of the shaft. I asked the dealer how they changed the impeller and they told me they removed the pump and did it on a bench. They charged 2 hours labor to change an impeller. It would be a nightmare doing this on the water in anything but absolutely calm water. Hands down the worst design and hardest impeller I've ever changed. The following year I used some blue Loctite to hold the key in place which really helped but you were still standing on your head while working on it. I really didn't want to "glue" the key in but figured if you broke a key on a raw water pump you had bigger problems than the "glued" in key.

Here's a shot of the engine package. Now imagine this being installed in a vDrive with all the pulleys about 8" from the transom.