SANTE 210 2005 - can't find a fuse to the stereo (well found one but it's not blown)

[hindsbeans@hotmail.com]

Hi Everyone,

Since firing up the boat at the start of the season, the stereo will not power on. This happened to me once before, about 7 years ago and the fix was to order a replacement (used) head unit. I did the same this time round (as the photo shows!) but it still won't power up.

I have checked the fuse shown in the photo (the photo was taken as I was lying on my back on the floor of the boat looking up) and it's fine, mutlimeter shows a circuit through the fuse.

Does anyone know where there might be another fuse for the stereo?

For reference, I checked for a popped circuit breaker under the dash but there is nothing listed there for the stereo. I also took a look at the wiring diagrams on one of the other threads but I'm not too familiar with wiring diagrams so I couldn't work out if there was a fuse in that.

I guess my next step would be to work back from the stereo head unit with the multimeter to check if it's getting 12v, but even that is tricky because I believe the power comes into the head unit via the black socket (top right in the photo) but when I open it there are about 5 or 7 pins in there so I don't know which one should show a 12v reading.

Any help greatly appreciated, as I'm somewhat stranded over here in Ireland where there aren't so many Nautique-gurus!

Thanks,

Peter

[SilentSeven]

Not sure what main circuit powers the stereo but I don't think you need to know to troubleshoot. If works like my 2004 204, the stereo powers up when the keypad is in the 'accessory' mode.

If this was my boat, here's what I would do. With the dash in powered on in accessory mode....

1 / test the hot side of the fuse connector shown in the picture. If that tests hot, then you know there is no issue getting power to the fuse.
2 / with a good fuse installed, test all sockets in the black harness for 12v. At least one should show hot. It really doesn't matter which one as long as you have at least one hot.
3 / if test one and two pass, try running a ground jumper from the headunit to known good ground. It's not impossible you have a ground issue vs a power issue.

If test one fails, then you need to work backwards to figure out why you're not getting power to the fuse.

If test one and and two pass, then it's either a pin out problem with the harness/headunit or the headunit itself has died.

If you add the ground jumper and the unit works, re-work the unit's ground setup.

Good luck. I'm amazed these headunits are still going after so many years. I still have mine... I'd replace it but I have yet to see a good solution on how to replace the oval shaped remote dash controller. All the new ones are round. :/

[SilentSeven]

Also...here's what chatgpt reports as the harness wiring map. Some hallucination with the violet wires...ha! Still, this should help with harness testing.

Yellow should be always hot regardless of ignition state.

Red should be hot when in accessory mode.

Yellow	Constant 12 V (Battery)
Red	Switched 12 V (Ignition/ACC)
Black	Ground
Blue	Power Antenna / Auto‑Antenna
Blue/White	AMP Remote On
Orange/White	Illumination Dimmer Input
Brown	Telephone Mute Trigger
Violet	Reverse Signal Input (for camera trigger)
Violet/Black	Parking Brake Sense (for video enable)

[hindsbeans@hotmail.com]

Thanks for the quick response SilentSeven.

I’ll give your suggestion a go this weekend and see how I get on.

In terms of the head unit not working, I doubt that’s it, as it’s in good shape (no signs of corrosion, whereas the head unit it replaced was starting to show some corrosion on the top side.) but a good one to bear in mind.

I’m guessing the ground wire is the one screwed into the back of the head unit so will also make sure that line shows an uninterrupted line to the battery.



In the meantime if anyone else has any other suggestions of where to go looking for a blown fuse I’m all ears.

By the way, I did see that the oval remote control works with some of the more recent Clarions, but just not the display. So you’ll be able to skip songs in a playlist, volume up and down and mute, what more do you need?!! When working my stereo is just an amp really, I got a €10 blue roof receiver that I plug into the aux Jack and then play everything from my phone beside the dash

[SilentSeven]

Actually...I forgot that you can get a round remote dash insert to replace the oval one. https://nautiqueparts.com/remote-con...round-remotes/

Be curious what you find. I had to replace my head unit last year when the rear channel RCA outputs died. Nothing is guaranteed on these old things.