2006 Nautique 210 Compression Test Results

[SilentSeven]

Smart to factor in upholstery costs. You can do it all in a single hit or on an as needed basis. If you're handy, you can self install many skins yourself.

I'm also in the Seattle area and have self replaced several skins using C&S products with good results. If you go down that road, happy to share what I have learned.

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[Leemer]

Nice boat. Love the color scheme, but I might be a bit biased. Most SAN's under 30k will require a few repairs. The missing transom cups are $32/ea and take all of 5 minutes to install. The boat interior looks like it has seen a lot of sun (Havasu). You can see the interior starting to split (back side of the starboard engine hatch cover). Most boats in this era will need a new interior. I replaced mine a few years ago for under 5k.

I share your concerns on the interior but was surprised to see that I could buy individual pieces, although matching might be an issue, from C & S. I reached out to them and they provided the following quote. I asked the dealer to do a piece-by-piece inventory and tell me if there is cracking, tears, stains or damage. Here is the quote I received:

The replacement upholstery skins for the listed boat are:



2003-2006 210 Super Sport/ Air

UPDATED 6/22


Complete set, 21 pieces standard hatch - $5553

Complete set, 21 pieces python hatch - $5677


Coaming pad, port- $254

Coaming pad, starboard- $283

Bow bottom, front- $195

Bow bottom, Port- $195

Bow bottom, Starboard- $159

Bow backrest wrap w/logo- $705

Bow bottom, filler- $147 (optional, not added in)

Walk thru wall, with carpet, port- $71

Walk thru wall, with carpet, starboard- $71

Driver seat bottom- $187 (add $52 if a flip-up)

Driver seat Arm wrap- $468

Driver seat backrest- $159

Observer seat bottom- $225

Observer seat backrest- $250

Arena seat, port- $190

Stern seat backrest w/logo- $619

Stern seat bottom port- $223

Stern seat bottom starboard- $223

Stern seat bottom center- $206

Hatch, Port- $227

Hatch, Starboard- $227

Hatch center- $416

OR For Python engine Center hatch $540


OPTIONAL Carpet 102"x10yds - $575

[Leemer]

Last thing to take a look at..... Get the date codes off those shinney tires and see how old they are. Past 4 years and you're going to need a new set. Tread and/or sidewall condition doesn't matter as tires will rot from the inside out sometimes. Before you blow off tires as being cheap, Goodyear Endurance 15" tires are $180 a piece here in Michigan and you'll need 4 of them. Adds up quickly.

The trailer is something a lot of people overlook when buying a boat then end up spending big afterwards. Also pull the cap off the master cylinder and look at the brake fluid. First see if there's any in there. The last 3 boats I looked at for friends, there wasn't. I like to take a piece of paper towel and dip it in the fluid (if there is any) to see what color it is. Most times if there is any, it's a dark brownish rust color. The fluid is supposed to be changed every 2 - 3 years but rarely gets done by most owners.

I know this seems nit picky but if you're in CA you'll probably be towing in hot weather. Nothing like sitting on the side of the road in 95 degree weather.

All great points. I'm in Seattle and I'm a trailer snob so all of these things will be on my to do list. I was happy to see it had disc brakes. It was kept at Lake Arrowhead. It's a one owner boat and comes with two covers. The owner purchased another new SAN from the dealer, hence the trade. I used to be a mechanic and would love to teach my eight year old son some skills. Flushing the brake fluid is a great suggestion. I bet it is original.

[Warrior48188]

Nice boat. Love the color scheme, but I might be a bit biased. Most SAN's under 30k will require a few repairs. The missing transom cups are $32/ea and take all of 5 minutes to install. The boat interior looks like it has seen a lot of sun (Havasu). You can see the interior starting to split (back side of the starboard engine hatch cover). Most boats in this era will need a new interior. I replaced mine a few years ago for under 5k.

[bturner]

Last thing to take a look at..... Get the date codes off those shinney tires and see how old they are. Past 4 years and you're going to need a new set. Tread and/or sidewall condition doesn't matter as tires will rot from the inside out sometimes. Before you blow off tires as being cheap, Goodyear Endurance 15" tires are $180 a piece here in Michigan and you'll need 4 of them. Adds up quickly.

The trailer is something a lot of people overlook when buying a boat then end up spending big afterwards. Also pull the cap off the master cylinder and look at the brake fluid. First see if there's any in there. The last 3 boats I looked at for friends, there wasn't. I like to take a piece of paper towel and dip it in the fluid (if there is any) to see what color it is. Most times if there is any, it's a dark brownish rust color. The fluid is supposed to be changed every 2 - 3 years but rarely gets done by most owners.

I know this seems nit picky but if you're in CA you'll probably be towing in hot weather. Nothing like sitting on the side of the road in 95 degree weather.

[Leemer]

It could be as simple as the wiring came unplugged from the back of the gauge. The fact that it’s well below the lowest temp reading makes me think that could be the case. I don’t believe mine goes that low even with the boat powered down. It’s not the end of the world since the digital readout still shows your temperature. Kinda odd they didn’t look like they were working in the other video.

He’s correct though… speedo will not work unless the paddle wheel is spinning or the pilot tubes are reading pressure. Also the 7.2 he was confused about is a calculation of fuel consumption. For some reason it’s displayed as liters per hour instead of gallons. Mine is the same way, but I don’t care about fuel economy!

Overall it looks like a decent purchase other than the filthy interior.

Thanks you! They are spending today and tomorrow detailing the boat. I expect it will look only slightly better. I guess that gives me something to do when I get it.

[core-rider]

It could be as simple as the wiring came unplugged from the back of the gauge. The fact that it’s well below the lowest temp reading makes me think that could be the case. I don’t believe mine goes that low even with the boat powered down. It’s not the end of the world since the digital readout still shows your temperature. Kinda odd they didn’t look like they were working in the other video.

He’s correct though… speedo will not work unless the paddle wheel is spinning or the pilot tubes are reading pressure. Also the 7.2 he was confused about is a calculation of fuel consumption. For some reason it’s displayed as liters per hour instead of gallons. Mine is the same way, but I don’t care about fuel economy!

Overall it looks like a decent purchase other than the filthy interior.

[Leemer]

The 2006 is supposed to be without pitot tubes running to the gateway and the video shows the gauges working exceptt for the temperature gauge and speed, presumably because the boat is on land. I hear you, that the gauges have been a big issue on this generation, but the second video appears to indicate they all work except for the analog temperature gauge. The digital temperature gauge within the electronic display in the RPM gauge is working. Does anyone know if the analog temperature gauge could be repaired?

[Rednucleus]

I agree with core-rider - nice observation!!

[Leemer]

Agreed... squeak is just the cutlass bearing being dry while spinning.

I do notice at the end of the video it looks like none of the gauges are displaying a reading. All the needles are hard left. If this is a cold start then okay the temp gauge would be to the left, but the oil pressure and voltage gauges should at least be somewhere near the middle of their sweep. Fuel tank might be empty which would be to the left as well. I also couldn't see the RPM needle reading anything, which they had it revved to at least 2k-2500 during that shot at the end. The other guy seemed to be scrolling through the menus on the gauges though.

All this leads me to believe the Gateway might be bad. That's an expensive fix IF you can even find a new Gateway. Otherwise it requires gauge replacement, which again isn't a cheap fix. I would have them prove those are working.

Thanks for this feedback. There is a second video where he goes through each gauge. He says the temperature gauge is the only one not working. Could you watch that video and let me know your thoughts. The digital temperature gauge is working, is that enough?

[core-rider]

Agreed... squeak is just the cutlass bearing being dry while spinning.

I do notice at the end of the video it looks like none of the gauges are displaying a reading. All the needles are hard left. If this is a cold start then okay the temp gauge would be to the left, but the oil pressure and voltage gauges should at least be somewhere near the middle of their sweep. Fuel tank might be empty which would be to the left as well. I also couldn't see the RPM needle reading anything, which they had it revved to at least 2k-2500 during that shot at the end. The other guy seemed to be scrolling through the menus on the gauges though.

All this leads me to believe the Gateway might be bad. That's an expensive fix IF you can even find a new Gateway. Otherwise it requires gauge replacement, which again isn't a cheap fix. I would have them prove those are working.

[MN Ryan]

The squeak is likely just the prop shaft turning in the strut. It's water lubricated, so they squeal out of water (I panicked the first time I turned mine out of water).

I've gotta say, the sound of that Excalibur got me fired up! It sounds just like mine.

[Leemer]

Not really unless the water splashing up from the holes in the platform bothers you. IMHO I'd want the holes filled and gel coated over properly... that's what I did when I removed the cups. Any other way just looks sloppy and could be a potential leak.

Thanks, Jason. The dealer agreed to source new covers and install them prior to shipping. Did you have a chance to watch the video linked above? They run the boat on a hose and briefly put it in forward and then reverse. There's a small squeak audible that I'm not sure if it's normal. Is that something I should be concerned with?

[core-rider]

I did a FaceTime with the dealer and what the original owner did was remove the cups and silicon the screws into the grommets. Are these covers worth trying to find and replace?

Not really unless the water splashing up from the holes in the platform bothers you. IMHO I'd want the holes filled and gel coated over properly... that's what I did when I removed the cups. Any other way just looks sloppy and could be a potential leak.

[Leemer]

I really appreciate everyone's help. The dealer started and ran the boat this morning. They sent me this video. Are there any red flags I need to be aware of? They changed the batteries, based on a comment that was in the video. Again, thank you!

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#...B-67C31A7D1B37