No Power to Start Panel - 2020 230

[Eli230]

Hi everyone, first post.

I have a 2020 230 with 40hrs. Interesting electrical gremlin. I alternate my batteries (Batt 1 on days, Batt 2 on even days). Ran Batt 1 without any issues all day, then moored at the dock (5mins, everything turned off) to take the boat out of the water. When I pushed start (should turn on the LINC display), the display went through it's normal startup, then shutoff. Tried again, and this time, it didn't even make it to the appearance of the "acknowledge risk" msg. Tried a third time and it didn't even turn on the blue light on the Start Panel.

Switched to Batt 2 and no issues, started up and took the boat out of the water. Got home, connected the integrated battery charger and figured that Batt 1had just been drained. Ran the charger overnight, in the morning, my Nautique app showed Batt 1 still at 11V (Crit), and Batt 2 at 13.5V. Used a voltmeter to check the batteries, and both checked good at 13.5V (with the Batt Switch Off to ensure that they were isolated).

Tried to turn on the Start Panel / LINC display with Batt 1 and still nothing (zero response from the panel and no blue lights), Batt 2 worked as advertised.

Checked all of the breakers and fuses that I could find, all seemed ok. Any ideas?

Dealer is a 4 hour drive away...

Cheers

[bturner]

Based on your problem determination so far it would appear you have a voltage drop between battery one and the system. The first suspects in my book would be the battery switch/cables. Switches go bad all the time and sometimes will even fall apart as you pull them out of the boat to check them. If you don't want to start pulling cables just yet you could swap positions of the batteries and see if the problem follows the battery. I've seen dead/weak cells in a battery still show proper voltage then crash under load. If the problem follows the battery you have your problem. If the problem stays with the location then it's time to start pulling cables to check them and the switch. The good news is that you have a solid problem so problem determination should be pretty straight forward and isolated to the switch/battery area.

If you find the switch the issue I would highly recommend replacing it with an isolator solution like the "Add A Battery" kit from Blues Seas. The isolator will eliminate the need to manually switch from one battery to another.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/765...ery_Kit_-_120A

[scottb7]

Yeah, i agree with above. I would switch the batteries and see if problem moves. Sounds like you got a bad one.

Also, you can do what you want, but I would start boat on both, and run boat on both all the time. I would only isolate to one battery when in the water without boat running. That way when running you are always topping off both.

[Eli230]

Thank you for the responses. I tried the battery swap, didn't follow the battery, so it's either wiring or the switch. Dropped it off at the dealer for a warranty fix. Hopefully quick, short boating season in Canada

[Eli230]

Just an update. Dealer found the issue, loose ground connection on the Batt1 circuit somewhere between the panel and the Battery switch. She's good as new, except I have an extra 1400km on my truck for the two return trips to the dealer...