1996 Sport Nautique Restoration - Engine Cover Options

[Canuck-Surfer]

I'm motoring along on my 96 Sport restoration. The boat comes out of the fiberglass shop this week where they have filled in scratches and removed years of oxidation. They also have filled spider cracks and the old tower mount holes.

My next step is to have all the vinyl replaced. I'm going custom because I want a modern look and not the original look skins that C&S has. I have a the shop lined up. I just need to decide what to do with the engine cover/dog house. It is the 2-part clamshell type. I already plan to remove the carpet from the base and use fairing compound and gelcoat on the rough fiberglass for the base.

I'm trying to decide if I should do the same for the top main cover and then add some SeaDek on it like the current Ski Nautiques have. Here are my questions:

1) How hard is it to fair out the rough fiberglass? I know there will be lots of sanding, but I hope to get it great looking if I go this route.
2) How much noise dampening does the foam and vinyl provide? If I forgo this, will the engine be noticeably louder?
3) If I remove the vinyl as a cover, then the bolt heads for the gas spring mounts will show through. Any creative ideas on how to hide them?

I want your opinions guys on which route to go. Bring it on!

[wayoutthere]

How rough is the fiberglass ? Is it just that it was pulled from the mold w/o gel and it has pinholes etc. Get some pictures up.

by accident i had to start using my non orbital variable speed buffer as a grinder, tell you what its very forgiving.
harbor freight buffer harbor freight sponge rubber pads that have velcro on the face, 4 and 7 inch and harbor freight velcro grinding discs.
saves big money over the flappy discs,
and again way more forgiving at the lower rpms than a grinder at 12000 rpms.

Have a grinder in my hands for 35 years wish i broke a grinder and used the buffer/polisher out of desperation 35 years ago

3m premium marine filler, no bondo, no bondo, no bondo,
i just shot my engine hatch with gel to expose all the imperfections as it was vinyl covered, the filler will be thickened gel swiped on, then sanded for another quart as a final layer.
I'm no pro, just a hobby so if i can do it !

change the gas shock bolts to oval head screws whatever thread the bolts are and use button washers.
Yes, the engine will probably be more noticeable.

[wayoutthere]

Your hatch should be basically the same shape, therefore the outside of it was up against the mold during lamination so it wont or shouldnt be rough, just no gel.
the insde is rough or at least not smooth hand laid glass most likely mat.

[wayoutthere]

Finish washers i guess they're called

[Canuck-Surfer]

Mine is the opposite of yours. The mold was on the inside and mat is exposed on outside (inside of cover is smooth).

See pics...
















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[Canuck-Surfer]

If I do fair and gel the cover, how do I finish the edge. I don’t love the look of black vinyl u-channel edging trim.


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[bturner]

Aluminum or stainless channel? Unless you have better skills than me you'd probably need a metal shop to bend/shape the channel.

https://www.outwater.com/products/ss907-p/

[wayoutthere]

So i re read your first post, is this a 2 part dog box ? Base and cover ?
need picture of whole dog box. Picture of whole base, that would help with rebuild ideas and the edge finish.

yes i see now how they laid it up on a male mold.
honestly, i would use the inside of the dog box as a mold and just lay up a new one.