I had my '14 SAN230 winterized and they said there was a leak in the V-drive. One suggestion was to replace it ($4800 parts/labor) or run it another season topping it off as needed. Thoughts? It wasn't an issue at the start of the season or last season...but we put on 120 hours this year...mostly wakesurfing with a big crew.
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If there is a crack in the housing then it might need replaced. There is always the tried and true JB Weld to Fill the Crack also if that's the case. If you ran it all year with no issues I would try that.
If its just a seal, then I would think you can find someone to replace the seal.
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Thanks! I will see what they say when I pick it up...if there is a crack or just seal. It seemed they only knew there was a leak, but ddin't know from where. The level was low and there was residue in the bottom of the boat I suspect.Originally posted by Stevemo14 View PostIf there is a crack in the housing then it might need replaced. There is always the tried and true JB Weld to Fill the Crack also if that's the case. If you ran it all year with no issues I would try that.
If its just a seal, then I would think you can find someone to replace the seal.
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I'm reading more and more crazy stories about drive train issues with heavy surf loads so this really doesn't surprise me. On the MC forum there were 2 separate threads on damper plates coming apart.
As to this one I certainly believe the loading is becoming an issue and quite possibly was the root cause. As to when to replace, I personally would do it now at the end of the season and have a fresh vDrive in the boat for the spring. 2 factors here.....- The first is if this does get worse (and I doubt it'll sty the same or get better) say in mid to late June or July, how long do you think you'll be without a boat in peak season while you're in the queue for repair?
- The second is where do you think all that thick oil or trans fluid is going to end up? If your bilge pump comes on with that oil/fluid in the bilge you're going to be pumping it directly into the lake which is not cool on any level. It'll also sit in the bilge with your pumps and oil is not good for plastic covered wiring or the pumps themselves.
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Thanks for the info...makes sense. I was worried that it would clog up the bilge as well. But ultimately dumping in to the lake doesn't sit well with me either. I wasn't sure if $4800 was the industry standard or just what it costs. They said 12 hours labor. That sounds like a pretty big job. And I agree, it doesn't seem like something that will remedy itself.Originally posted by bturner View PostI'm reading more and more crazy stories about drive train issues with heavy surf loads so this really doesn't surprise me. On the MC forum there were 2 separate threads on damper plates coming apart.
As to this one I certainly believe the loading is becoming an issue and quite possibly was the root cause. As to when to replace, I personally would do it now at the end of the season and have a fresh vDrive in the boat for the spring. 2 factors here.....- The first is if this does get worse (and I doubt it'll sty the same or get better) say in mid to late June or July, how long do you think you'll be without a boat in peak season while you're in the queue for repair?
- The second is where do you think all that thick oil or trans fluid is going to end up? If your bilge pump comes on with that oil/fluid in the bilge you're going to be pumping it directly into the lake which is not cool on any level. It'll also sit in the bilge with your pumps and oil is not good for plastic covered wiring or the pumps themselves.
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A new vDrive from Discount Inboard Marine is $2400....
https://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1140
Pulling a vDrive out and replacing it is priceless if you've never done it before and don't have the tools or place to do it. You also have the alignment to do once you've replaced it. I will say 12 hours does sound like a lot of labor for a shop that I would think has done several of these and has all the tools. That said I've never personally done one so there's that too. Read too many threads where people tell you how easy something is to do only to find out they've never personally done it themselves.
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I lean toward replacing it right now. If It was me I would clean the vdrive up and go run the boat for an hour and see if I could determine how much was leaking and from where. But likely this would not be very conclusive. It seems impossible to do any meaningful fix without removing it and the shop doesn’t want to risk doing a quick fix when that much labor is involved so replace it and move onOriginally posted by Bogusdogs View PostI had my '14 SAN230 winterized and they said there was a leak in the V-drive. One suggestion was to replace it ($4800 parts/labor) or run it another season topping it off as needed. Thoughts? It wasn't an issue at the start of the season or last season...but we put on 120 hours this year...mostly wakesurfing with a big crew.
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I just did mine and it was my 1st time doing anything mechanically that involved. Wasn’t a V-drive, which I’m sure is more difficult, but it didn’t take 12 hours to swap out. As a novice, I would say it took me ~6 hours. Also, if you haven’t, check all the hoses and their connections. After installing mine, I had a small leak at one of the transmission hoses going to the transmission cooler. Luckily, I was able to remove, added some Teflon tape and tightened. That solved the leak. Could be a cracked fitting at one of the lines or puncture in a hose.
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