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Oil Change Procedure - PCM Engines

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  • Oil Change Procedure - PCM Engines

    I have recently seen many posts, especially by new boat owners asking how to change the oil in a Nautique . This weekend I did my second oil change of the year on our 2020 G23 with the ZZ6 engine so I decided to document the procedure for others to use. I wrote this for the fist timer so many steps will be obvious to the more experienced owners.

    Feel free to suggest comments or areas for improvement.

    Perhaps NautiqueJeff this can be made sticky? Thanks.

    All the best...

    PCM Oil Change Procedures
    Last edited by NautiqueJeff; 06-08-2020, 05:11 PM.

  • #2
    I like the write up. Good job. I'd note that on my 200 I can get the hose through the drain hole fairly easily, and did it that way a few weeks ago. If you can leave it overnight you can use this method without even heating it up. I got pretty much all the oil out this way without the need for an extractor and it was relatively mess free.


    • #3
      That's a great write-up!

      I fixed the link so that the latest version can be viewed by just clicking the link now. You can also right-click and download a copy now as well.

      I'll make it a sticky.
      Current Boats —> 2021 Super Air Nautique G23 -- 2003 Air Nautique 226 -- 2003 Sport Nautique 216 -- 1999 Air Tique 176 -- 1981 Fish Nautique (TWIN ENGINE 1 of 3)
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      • #4
        greggmck Great write up


        • #5
          Super helpful, as always! Thanks so much.


          • #6
            Really nice writeup...great tips! As opposed to the Mityvac, I use one of these Jabsco hand pumps.


            A little less pricey and a bit smaller and easier to store but at a higher risk for messes. Also, the threaded head screws directly onto the hardmounted oil removal port on the GT-40 engine.

            2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
            1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
            1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
            Bellevue WA


            • #7
              i also use the above hand pump. Been doing so for 15 years. Very quick, very clean.


              • #8
                I might add to your procedure pre filling the filter is not necessary and as some people like to do it anyway they fill the filter into the centre hole in the filter, you just put unfiltered oil into the eng the center hole is the clean side so that cup or two of oil that is "dirty just went thru your eng. the 3-5 seconds it takes to fill the filter when you start with a dry filter will do no eng damage at all.
                each to thier own but if you feel you have to prime the oil filter fill it from the outer holes they are the "dirty " or inlet of the filter.
                Biggest Diy mistake going.


                • #9
                  I agree its not necessary to pre-fill the filter. That is a habit I learned growing up watching my neighbor build race engine. On your comment about filling the oil filter center hole with "dirty" new oil, the ZZ6/H6Di are wet sump designs. Dirty oil as you say are exposed to the upper oil galley, lifters, rockers, and to the main bearings/crank before going into the filter too. So I don't buy that there is any risk of engine damage from pouring clean oil into the center hole. This would only be a problem if metal shavings or other debris were to fall into the filter center hole.

                  And "Biggest Diy mistake going" is a bit of an exaggeration.
                  Last edited by greggmck; 06-17-2020, 10:53 AM.


                  • #10
                    I followed this and it worked great on my 230 with a ZR4. As a data point for others, the manual for the ZR4 says start by filling with 4 Qt and then run it and add more if needed. I ended up needing about 4.2 Qt. for my boat and that was pretty well filled.


                    • #11
                      Thanks for posting - great write-up.


                      • #12
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                        I think the write-up here by greggmck is excellent. He and I have discussed our preferences before with respect to this process. I use a battery powered Jabsco unit to extract. Instead of using the supplied alligator clips it comes with, like some cretin, I cut off the clips and wire it such that it can be plugged into a quick connect like those found on Deltran Battery Tenders. In turn, I attach the compatible plug to the rear-most battery via ring terminals on the Paragon to facilitate "plug-n-play". Then-(and this is the sexy part)-I use "poppet-style", high pressure quick disconnects to make life really easy (see the link below) muss, no fuss. The male "poppet style" disconnect is threaded to the engine oil evacuation hose, the female to the end of my Jabsco oil extractor. When you disconnect these two, bone dry. These connectors will not leak under pressure; as such, you just leave the male on the end of the engine oil extractor hose. Last, (but certainly not least) I have a large of supply of beer. (This is why the need for the battery powered extractor; if I'm draining a few "freshies"- I can't be "huffin' and puffin'" pumping oil from my engine...) Otherwise, greggmck and I see completely eye-to-eye on the rest of the process! (I too use an M1-301 and now Mobil 1 0W-40 that is called for on the ZZ8).

                        Last edited by RDT-G23; 06-27-2020, 02:54 PM.


                        • #13
                          ...and then...if by some chance I've had too much beer (is there such a thing?) - and somehow overfill it a bit... (This hasn't happened yet, but I am prepared) I usually put 6 qts. in to start (and also have filled the filter) then nurse it up carefully... But let's just say I did... Then I would use this to extract out a little oil. It too has the high pressure QD to mate to the engine oil extraction hose...

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                          Last edited by RDT-G23; 06-26-2020, 03:10 PM.


                          • #14
                            Do you guys trust the oil level to be correct when boat is in the water - so it's leveled? How about on the trailer ?


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Speed_racer View Post
                              Do you guys trust the oil level to be correct when boat is in the water - so it's leveled? How about on the trailer ?
                              You just have to use the eye test with the boat. The boat tends to lean toward the bow a bit on the trailer. You could put a level on the engine cover and use the trailer jack to try to get it close (I'll get flamed for that suggestion) As long as it is close, you are close...