2018 GS22 Oil Change Problem

[cmrdgrs]

Hi All -- Due to Covid-19 my dear husband (DH) and I waited too long to schedule our spring service for our boat, called around and all the service places are out 6 - 8 weeks before they can work on our boat because they are completely backed up due to being closed during Covid-19 restrictions. Well heck, summer will be over they then!

DH is very mechanical and does all the service, engine, oil changes, etc on our cars, so he decided to do the service himself.

All was going smoothly until he went to change the oil using his pneumatic oil (fluid) extractor. As he would on our cars he put the 1/4 inch nylon hose into the dip stick, turned on the extractor and no oil came out. At that point he pushed the hose a little deeper and it got stuck on something (and still no oil came out). He was finally able to remove the tube from the dip stick and when we examined the 1/4 inch tube part of the tube was crushed. We assume that was were the tube was stuck and also the reason no oil was coming out when the extractor was turned on.

Anyone have any advice for what the tube was stuck on? Or maybe the 1/4 inch tube is too large for the dip stick?

He has changed the oil using this method on our cars countless times, so we really have no idea what he is doing wrong.

[hal2814]

I have no advice for it being stuck other than be careful. It’s a bear to get out when it’s stuck. Most people that use a pump attach it to the drain hose and pump from there. There should be a hose where the oil drain plug typically is on the oil pan.

[cmrdgrs]

I have no advice for it being stuck other than be careful. It’s a bear to get out when it’s stuck. Most people that use a pump attach it to the drain hose and pump from there. There should be a hose where the oil drain plug typically is on the oil pan.

When the tube was stuck, he wasn't feeling confident he could remove the 1/4" tube, and envisioned a nightmare repair bill.

Maybe you can't remove the oil through the dip stick?

[greggmck]

I don't like to use the dip stick to extract oil because the hose can get stuck and there is no guarantee that you will hit the bottom of the oil pan. He should find the correct hose with an inside diameter that can fit tightly over the oil extractor dip stick hose and then get fittings to adapt the other end of the hose to the oil removal hose in the G. In the bottom of the hull, in front of the engine you will see a black hose with a brass plug. This is the oil drain hose. If he connects his oil extractor to this hose he will remove all of the oil and not worry about getting snagged in the dip stick. Here are a few pics and the parts that can be had at Home Depot or Lowes.

[charlesml3]

Never feed an oil changer down the dipstick tube. It will almost always get stuck.

https://imgur.com/a/ARGsDol

[NautiqueJeff]

Just get one of these. It will attach directly to the oil drain hose, and then you can use your pump to pump the oil out the right way.

[cmrdgrs]

Never feed an oil changer down the dipstick tube. It will almost always get stuck.

https://imgur.com/a/ARGsDol

Yes, we have now learned that lesson (the hard way). Thank you!

[cmrdgrs]

Thank you greggmck, charlesml3 & NautiqueJeff -- showed your posts to DH and he understands what he needs to do now. Really appreciate your help, explanations and pictures. DH took some pictures of his work, and said he wants to post a write up on what he did.

[cmrdgrs]

Follow-up original post. DH was able to find a fitting he had on his workbench that fit on the oil drain hose and worked with his pneumatic oil extractor. Oil has been removed. Tomorrow he'll finish! Can't wait to get out on the lake!

Thank you again! We really appreciate you taking the time to respond.

[cmrdgrs]

Instead of opening up a new post, maybe those that responded can give a little more advice? Tomorrow we have a few more things to do. Before we closed up things for the night, DH and I were looking for the "canister" fuel filter. Is it located next to the impeller? We can't quite figure out were it's located on the engine. Any advice on changing out this filter? Thanks again.

[charlesml3]

Should be starboard side in the back. It's a bit longer than the spin-on oil filter. It's not difficult to change but when you take it off it will be FULL of fuel. It can be tricky to get it out of the boat without spilling some.

-Charles

[cmrdgrs]

Should be starboard side in the back. It's a bit longer than the spin-on oil filter. It's not difficult to change but when you take it off it will be FULL of fuel. It can be tricky to get it out of the boat without spilling some.

-Charles

Thanks Charles! DH and I thought that was where the canister fuel filter was located.

After re-reading the PCM tech manual and looking at the directions that came with the canister, we realized that our canister has a bolt on the bottom of the canister that you unscrew which allows you to remove the fuel. Using a funnel, container and some rags I was able to hold the funnel under the canister for DH as he unscrewed the bolt. We managed to remove the gas with very little spilling. After that DH undid the clamp on the canister, and although there was still a little residual gas, as he worked the canister off to get to the filter, he was able to replace the filter cartridge and contain the mess.

The new cartridge came with 3 new O rings -- 1 thick ring and 2 thinner rings. After looking everything over once the canister was apart, it seemed like our canister only used the two thinner rings. We lubed and replaced those. We decided the larger O ring must be for a different type of canister, so we didn't use it.

Transmission fluid and oil back in the engine now. We're headed to the lake this AM to start it up look everything over for any potential leaks, bring it home (we didn't buy a fake-a-lake) and recheck the fluid levels. Unfortunately work calls for the rest of this week, so we'll have to wait for next weekend to get our boating season officially started.

[RDT-G23]

If he really wants to be “cutting edge” he could procure these high pressure quick disconnects (which I use). They seal immediately (and completely) upon disconnection. They make it quite easy (and Uber fast) to mount the oil extraction line from the boat to the one on the pump/extractor.

[cmrdgrs]

If he really wants to be “cutting edge” he could procure these high pressure quick disconnects (which I use). They seal immediately (and completely) upon disconnection. They make it quite easy (and Uber fast) to mount the oil extraction line from the boat to the one on the pump/extractor.

I'm sure this will be his plan. He currently uses quick connect connections on his pneumatic oil extractor now with our cars. Thanks!

[charlesml3]

Thanks Charles! DH and I thought that was where the canister fuel filter was located.

After re-reading the PCM tech manual and looking at the directions that came with the canister, we realized that our canister has a bolt on the bottom of the canister that you unscrew which allows you to remove the fuel. Using a funnel, container and some rags I was able to hold the funnel under the canister for DH as. he unscrewed the bolt. We managed to remove the gas with very little spilling. After that DH undid the clamp on the canister, and although there was still a little residual gas, as he worked the canister off to get to the filter, he was able to replace the filter cartridge and contain the mess.

The new cartridge came with 3 new O rings -- 1 thick ring and 2 thinner rings. After looking everything over once the canister was apart, it seemed like our canister only used the two thinner rings. We lubed and replaced those. We decided the larger O ring must be for a different type of canister, so we didn't use it.

Transmission fluid and oil back in the engine now. We're headed to the lake this AM to start it up look everything over for any potential leaks, bring it home (we didn't buy a fake-a-lake) and recheck the fluid levels. Unfortunately work calls for the rest of this week, so we'll have to wait for next weekend to get our boating season officially started.

OK, you are talking about a different filter. The one you're describing is in the Fuel Control Cell (FCC). This is not the same as the spin-on fuel/water separator filter. The filter inside the FCC only needs to be changed every 200 hours. It's fine that you changed it, but not really necessary at this time. I change the spin-on fuel-water separator every time I change the oil. I'm back there anyway and it's a good idea to change it regularly.

-Charles