2000 ski bilge pump operation

[C_Heath]

No problem, when I get home I can check some things with the meter on my boat. Also I want make sure the PME uses dry contacts, and see if continuity checks across a battery is an issue.

I just went out and pulled the 40 pin. While it was out I checked the bilge wire continuity. I go no alarm. The pins all looked really good. No rusty looking pins and all the wires were in and tight. The pin holes were all good. When I plugged it back in I checked the bilge pump wire again for continuity and got the alarm. Also, from what I read think you asked me to check the continuity of both grounds on the ballast and bilge? I stuck one lead into each ground and got the alarm. Wasn’t sure if that was what you meant or not.

[ATX Jeep]

Spent some time looking at my boat bilge wiring. So to check continuity (a path for electricity to flow) measure using ohms it’s the omega sign on meter If you touch the leads together the reading will be very low like under 10 ohms (good circuit) When you pull the leads apart the reading will be very high mega ohms or OL a broke circuit.

-Checking ground side. So the bilge pump, ballast pump, and battery (all black wires) should be connected all the time at PME. They will have good continuity and a low ohms reading between all three.

-Checking the positive side. Check continuity (with bilge pump off) between the battery positive and brown bilge wire. It should be high mega ohms reading no electricity flow. You should be able to push your bilge button and reading will drop down to maybe 30 ohms a good electrical path.

-1st you mentioned the bilge pump works when connected to another circuit.

-Now I suspect the the grounds all check out and there are other things like the ballast pump that are working (all PME circuits share same positive voltage) the key pad button is also clicking like a switch should. You are left with the fuse/breaker that you are just not able to get a path for electricity to come out to the 40 pin plug.

If all the wiring looks good. You could look into repurposing an unused circuit that matches the bilge pump specs, or get another PME Good luck Michael..

[C_Heath]

Spent some time looking at my boat bilge wiring. So to check continuity (a path for electricity to flow) measure using ohms it’s the omega sign on meter If you touch the leads together the reading will be very low like under 10 ohms (good circuit) When you pull the leads apart the reading will be very high mega ohms or OL a broke circuit.

-Checking ground side. So the bilge pump, ballast pump, and battery (all black wires) should be connected all the time at PME. They will have good continuity and a low ohms reading between all three.

-Checking the positive side. Check continuity (with bilge pump off) between the battery positive and brown bilge wire. It should be high mega ohms reading no electricity flow. You should be able to push your bilge button and reading will drop down to maybe 30 ohms a good electrical path.

-1st you mentioned the bilge pump works when connected to another circuit.

-Now I suspect the the grounds all check out and there are other things like the ballast pump that are working (all PME circuits share same positive voltage) the key pad button is also clicking like a switch should. You are left with the fuse/breaker that you are just not able to get a path for electricity to come out to the 40 pin plug.





If all the wiring looks good. You could look into repurposing an unused circuit that matches the bilge pump specs, or get another PME Good luck Michael..

Alright Gonna go check these as well.

[Michael Crouse]

I need to look at my wiring diagram again, but if I have function on the (bilge only) position but not with power on its my ground going to the PME from my bilge pump the problem or the power side. Or are the grounds common? Looks like I need to get a multi meter to go any farther.

[ATX Jeep]

I need to look at my wiring diagram again, but if I have function on the (bilge only) position but not with power on its my ground going to the PME from my bilge pump the problem or the power side. Or are the grounds common? Looks like I need to get a multi meter to go any farther.

-All grounds will be connected back at and through the PME. Your battery negative will have a good size black wire connecting to a ground post on your PME, and that gets split out to a bunch of black 40 pin plug for all the separate circuits.

-If the bilge works with “Bilge On” and not with “All On” it should be a +V PME area issue because they share the same ground wiring. It doesn’t hurt to verify the correct polarity at the bilge, to be clear because some things might still work if the +V and ground were crossed (I’ve seen crazier things).

[Michael Crouse]

Well I spent some time on my bilge pump this afternoon, and hers where I ended up.
I tested my voltage with the bilge pump in the bilge position on three way power switch and had 12 volts and proper operation.
I then put the switch in the on position and turned on the bilge pump and could hear the the it click in the breaker box but no voltage to the wire. I then replaced a couple of connections that were on there to see if it was a bad connection, still no power.
That leaves me with a bad circuit or a bad pin in the 40 pin connector.
i don’t know how to change out the pins and I’m not ready to spend the $700 or so to put new PME in there.

Bilge only operation

My 40 pin connection

the spice I redid
My next move I think will be to attach it to an unused circuit like accessory or shower.
Mike

[Michael Crouse]

Here is my work around. Used my yellow accessory wire to power my bilge pump, (was previously unused) to run my bilge when underway.
Be aware that you need to have your code entered to run it, but now I can have my bilge on while underway, Saves me from replacing the PME box.
Mike

[Michael Crouse]

I used waterproof quick connect fittings so I can reconnect to the original set up if necessary.

[C_Heath]

I used waterproof quick connect fittings so I can reconnect to the original set up if necessary.

Nice work, Im still in Limbo on mine. My 40 pin connector looks good and so does the male part of it. Thats not to say its a bad connection tho. Until I can get some time to do what you did, Im running the bilge pump off of the "fill" button of the ballast with the bilge plugged into the ballast wire. Only bad thing is that I have to manually cut it on and its not a 24/7 live wire like the bilge wire. So I cant leave it in the water overnight. Which I dont anyhow. Ill keep searching. Thanks for the info.